Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Ha!

Remove the cassette, there should be a serial number somewhere on the freehub body.

Think I just screwed my headset cup. Cane Creek 110 EC34, bearings were stuck fast so I encouraged it out with a screwdriver and hammer (I know), as far as I can tell they should be fairly loose.

1. Is this salvageable? Poss with some fine sandpaper on a circular disc in a drill.

2. Why would they be stuck so fast in the first place? CC website doesn't mention special tools for fitting/removal. I'm thinking ovalised HT maybe?

3. how should I get the bottom one out? It has no lip to hammer on from above.

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Looks like replacement parts might be available, or just get a reasonably priced one.

You've defintely buggered this up.

110 comes with lifetime warranty https://canecreek.com/product/110/

Have you seen how filthy the bike is? I ain't touching that shit. :D

(question to follow here about bike washing)

Why would they be stuck so fast in the first place? CC website doesn't mention special tools for fitting/removal. I'm thinking ovalised HT maybe?

Can you measure it? I have a couple of bikes with 110s and don't remember the bearings being that difficult to remove 🤔

Is the bearing outer corroded?

Measure the headtube? I can and will, though the cups are installed so might not too be able to get a caliper on any rebate if there is one. Pretty sure it's 34mm nominally

@coventry_eagle I know, which is kind of why I bought it, though I can't imagine that extends to cack handed spannering. I guess if the cups are out of tolerance that's a manufacturing fault!?

how should I get the bottom one out? It has no lip to hammer on from above.

Slide hammer/blind bearing tool.
For really close tolerance bearings, you really want to be removing them out as straight as poss. Screwdriver and hammer is gonna be skewing stuff and making it harder than it should be

And a bit of heat on the bearing cup always helps

Cheers, £25 on eBay might be a worthy investment, though another tool I don't want to own.

Fired an email of to Cane Creek, if they don't feel like replacing it I'll buy a 40 for the cups and spares.

@coventry_eagle 34mm headtube, maybe 33.9, seems pretty round. No corrosion on the bearing.

Do you have a photo of the top bearing?

Also the bearing still in the bottom cup?

Sure

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You will need to know the thickness of the bearing too.

For what sorry?

I'd measure the external bit of the cup where the bearing sits to see how round that is.

The version I have looks a bit newer. The cups have an additional seal which does add some resistance compared to the 40 model.

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Seems pretty much round, though not sure my calipers are accurate enough to tell for sure.

Now having doubts about whether it's actually a 110 and not a 40, but the shape seems about right.

Chain tensioners.
I have a surly singelator (thanks OG donator), but yesterday when I was pUTTTING dowN THE srs WATTS at Herne Hill, the chain was skipping and clunking and making a right old racket. The chain slipped off the front once in the warm up and then once on the way home.

I could get a new spring so it pushes up, but has anyone got any pictures/insight into removing the spring and ziptieing it into position?

I’ve never had issues with my singelator, but then I’ve never put down WATTS! I take it you’ve tightened the tension nut up properly and locked it off. Is the pulley guide set to single speed chain width or 8 speed. If that’s on the wrong way round it makes a difference. Other than those things are can’t suggest anything.
You’ve probably already read this, but just in case
https://surlybikes.com/uploads/downloads/Surly_Singleator_Instructions.pdf
Just a thought you’re not running it fixed are you…I know I know…

Hmm.
I'll have a look at the pulley guide width, I think it is 1/8.
Looking at the diagram, does the spring tensioner tighten when you tighten the pivot bolt or do I have to grip it with a cone spanner or something? (i watched a video to learn this)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uyy2CvqOPdc

Not fixed, converting a crux from gears to single speed.

You need to tighten the tension nut with a spanner, hold it and then do up the hanger bolt. If you are pushing the chain up you have to push the tensioner up at the same time. All with just two hands…

You mean you don't have 4 hands?

I have a bike with Shimano mt447 brakes. I also have 2 new Deore mt6100 brake calipers which I like to use.
The MT447 needs a SM-BH59 brake hose and the Deore a BH90, which apparently has a smaller internal diameter.
The question: can I use the Deore calipers with the thinner brake hose if I use the correct barb and olive?
Thanks!

Edit; apparently the difference in inner diameter is 0,2mm (2,3 vs. 2,1mm)

The only difference is the barb, olive are the same and for better performance use BH90.

But can you jam a BH59 barb in a BH90 hose or will it not fit?

I've not tried it and I'll be against it given it is a couple of quid (or less) each, not something that'll even risk for personal use.

I also have 2 new Deore mt6100 brake calipers which I like to use.

To make it clear, if you're on a budget, you can reuse the current hose (replacing the barb and olives or reuse them, I've done the latter safely) and install the new calipers, do check for leaks once installed, usually its fine.