Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Fixed with out a lock ring works ok as long as you never skid. Small amounts of leg resistance aren’t usually enough to unscrew it once it’s dug in.

Ah it's for something tracklocross type so probably better to not go for that. Thanks

I solved this same issue by just using a much longer straddle cable. I can't see an issue with your current solution though!

Meh, interest in fettling with a vintage bike was rock bottom so did what any good bike person would do and just bought a new bike.

Will strip down the Graham Weigh and put the frame and fork in classifieds.

Now, here’s a question.
Coaster-brake single-speed rear wheel, cog is secured with a large circlipy type thing, behind the cog (which has three splines / notches) is a deep washer (about 12mm ish) with a fine lip at the edge facing off to the spokeside of the cog.
Now, the cog isn’t threaded to the hub, it sort of ‘floats’, which gives a little lateral movement when the coaster brake isn’t invoked (a brake which works really well, as I discovered when testing yesterday with a sick skidz - very satisfying btw.)
Sorry, back to the question- is that ‘float’ or (lack of) tolerance a thing with coasters? Will the rear wheel wheel fail and kill me?
I took the thing apart and the cone nuts and all were tight, so wondering if best to ditch the wheel and replace with a simple fix/free (biek has f & b calipers so much braking accomplishment already.) Or carry on and ignore?

Apologies if this has been answered upthread (or elsewhere), but when moving into the smallest sprocket on my cassette, the chain gets caught between the cassette and the chainstay. I'd rather this not happen at speed; can I put a spacer on the driveside of the axle to solve the problem?

You need to adjust the limit screws on your rear derailleur. YouTube is your friend here.

Spacer is not required.

I know some ppl driving around on old bikes with this type of coaster brake, all of these hubs I have seen have this play in the cog you describe. mostly GDR stuff like Renak, but shouldn't make a difference to other manufacturers. so should be normal.

Ah, cheers.
Now to change the bb and everything should be good*

*less terrible.

I just changed the bearings in my freewheel hub and forgot the tubular spacer between the two bearings. Do I need to knock one out and pop it in, or is it optional like the tube in a BB?

Depends on the design, but a lot of them use the spacer to keep the bearings in the right place and compressing everything with your QR or whatever might shift them out of place.

I was worried you'd say that. But sort of expecting it too.

The limit screws are adjusted correctly—the chain catches between the sprocket and chainstay with the current 12t sprocket on there. This wasn't a problem when I had an 11t sprocket on there.

Ah, it's not falling off, it's fouling the stay in gear, go back to an 11t.

Afraid I couldn't find it, sorry about that

is that ‘float’ or (lack of) tolerance a thing with coasters?

Yes.

Phew :)

Not sure where to ask this but is there a UK based shop where I can buy Titanium hardware?

I am after M5 socket head cap screws for a stem.

6x 18mm long
2x 23mm ish long

@gbj_tester would of course know but giving others a chance!

A spacer on the DS is possible, but it would mess up the dishing of your wheel. Worth checking if there's a spacer between the cassette and hub.

@gbj_tester would of course know but giving others a chance!

I don't think he agrees with cheap Ti

Not sure where to ask this but is there a UK based shop where I can buy Titanium hardware?

Pro Bolt - https://www.pro-bolt.com/

They roll the threads rather than cutting them, which some cheaper places do. They're not cheap, but for something as mission-critical as stem bolts I wouldn't go for the budget option myself.

Can't be cheap if it's UK made (or a UK company is pretending to do some QM and takes 100% pure profits)

tester would of course know

Pifko is half right - I don't approve of any Ti unless it was chosen by the designer. Replacing steel bolts with Ti makes no sense.

Brommers is right in that if you actually need Ti bolts, Probolt is the safer option than playing ebay roulette.

Thanks all for the help - Pro-Bolt it is!

@gbj_tester Funny enough, I have received the same advice from RedShift.

One important note: if you do substitute the hardware that can have a big effect on how the stem clamps to the handlebar and steerer tube which can impact safety. You can of course change the hardware but wanted you to be aware that we will not have safety tested whatever new configuration you have so we would not be able to guarantee clamping function. Hopefully that makes sense.

I think that looks fine, though I've always preferred just to bend the silver tab itself with some big pliers and adjust the angle and where the kink is, or add another bend making more of an 's' shape If you fiddle with that a bit, you usually find it will clear the straddle in some arrangment or other.