Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Might you be able to say what you would torque the compression plugs pictured here to?

I'd rather say that I favour custom solid plugs bonded into the steerer

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Is that something you make?

It's something I have machinists make for me. It's full #tartmode on both effort and expense, but it's very light and very reliable. The first ones had more bond area, but the one in the picture has been in my Look 585 for over a decade with no issues, and there's a similar one in my T3 which has been there very nearly as long.

This seemed like a good idea (secure, adjustable, idiot proof) but Easton quit the fork market and I've not seen anybody else steal the idea
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zewX15b-wEo

ETA: Internal threads seem to be a thing in BMX

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Oneup also sell a tap for using their threaded top caps

I just replaced the chain on my gravel bike (GRX). Bought a 116 link chain and planned to lose a couple of links based on an online calculator.

Nah. The GRX pulley is long enough to necessitate every single link. No cutting required.

Just sharing that as a warning.

On the carbon steerer chat, I cut a ride short back in late 2021 because I felt a loose headset and couldn’t get rid of it. I’d had the 3T stem off (single torx bolt design) and had tightened to 5Nm, and was loathe to go higher than that.

So I got home, ordered a normal stem (2x 5Nm Allen bolts) and dismantled the front of the bike to clean everything up ready.

Noticed this witness mark on the steerer and sought a few opinions on fora and did some reading. Have ridden it since over the past two years (headset tight - a loose one is a pet peeve of mine) and serviced the bike in October just gone… and there is no change.

I had put it down to compression of the very top layer, but now I’m worried I should be scrapping the fork given the chat in here. FFS

EDIT - this is from the compression ring as well

EDIT 2: the 3T stem is available, but I’d only use it on a steel steerer where you can really clamp it on!

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That's nothing, you're fine.

Really? That’s good to hear a supporting voice. 😂

Well if it snaps in a shower of flames and explosions, I do not accept any liability but from the pictures it looks like it has just dulled the glossy finish but hasn't really left any dent/impression. If it was my bike, I wouldn't be worried about it at all. So make of that what you will. I'm not a composites expert.

witness mark

Every bike with an AHeadset will have a witness mark from the compression ring, it's only a worry when it transitions from mark to groove

All the bikes I have serviced have this mark, as long there’s no groove like testy said, it’s fine.

@PhilDAS @edscoble @gbj_tester thanks for the input chaps. I appreciate it.

I’ve taken a few more photos. It’s actually not easy to detect to the naked eye, but I do notice now that on the LHS of the steerer, there is a bit of a “lip” which you can feel with a thumbnail.

I’ve attached a photo of that, and a few others (all taken just now).

It is what it is, but I’d have to get a new fork painted and then there’s a chance it can happen again - I’m absolutely fastidious about headset preload so unsure what I could do to prevent reoccurrence!

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Maybe the compression ring has just circularised the steerer🙂 I'd buff down any raised burr with some fine wet-and-dry and then take diameter measurements at different points and angles to see where you stand. A blade micrometer will be handy to get into any groove features, such as Mitutoyo 422-331-30 from e.g. https://www.tester.co.uk/mitutoyo-series-422-digital-blade-micrometer-0-101-6mm-0-4-blade-options (no relation)

I think I’d buy three new forks before spending £750 on a micrometer!

Just my little joke, a half decent vernier caliper is adequate for the task, e.g.
https://www.silverlinetools.com/en-GB/Product/ProductDetail?ModelName=675037

Either way, I think it’s new fork time. :-(

The GRX pulley is long enough to necessitate every single link. No cutting required.

It might be long enough but you should still size the chain correctly and cut to size so the chain isn't too long, so shortest it can be in big/big ring plus 1 full link, or 2 links if it's 1x (and 1 more if full sus, which it's obviously not).

Oh I totally agree. Any links out of this 116link chain and it would be too short, was my point.

Ie a 112link chain - commonly sold - would be too short.

Gotcha

So the 27.2 dropper post does the up/down alright. Unfortunately it slips.

Before I buy a BBB BSP-97 Postfix thingie is there anything else I can try? I don't know how much I can torque the Stanton seatpost collar before the bolt or collar breaks but I don't want it so tight I can't adjust it with a multitool and it's already pretty damn tight using a multitool.
It is (or was before I lifted it 20x today) covered in anti-slip paste.

Also the clutch is fucked. I presume Park Tool have a guide for servicing XT Shadow RDs...

It can be stripped and rebuild, probably a YouTube guide out there.

Change seat collars.

We had quality control issues with collars where it torqued to 5Nm, but nowhere near enough to clamp it

is there anything else I can try?

Lay off the pies?