Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Got given it, so no. Everything else so far has removed with no bother, other than a particularly stubborn plastic gear ferrule that was wedged in the stop. There's no visible signs of corrosion, other than the seatpost bolt, even the exposed section of stem where it enters the steerer is actually completely clean, which is why I'm a bit baffled

How do people secure bolts on racks/panniers to stop them getting nicked? I was going to go use
pit stoppers on the fixings to the frame, then locktite red on the assembly nuts and bolts - but the nuts are nyloc and I'm not sure the plastic will play nice with the loctite

Racks getting stolen often where you live? That’s low, and a bit weird since I’d think resale on bike parts would be worth more.

Very low. The only racks I've seen nicked recently had ebike batteries attached. No security bolt helps in this case
Also, I'd only mess with the red stuff if you want it there for good. Security bolts and blue locktite is probably enough

Yeah - I was of the same opinion until I had cheap handlebar and brake levers (no shifters) stolen last year outside a pub in Stoke Newington. Don't want to throw much cash at it, it's just to avoid the inconvenience (hence thinking of locktite).

I'm sure it'll be bottom of the list for bits to nick, and I guess if I at least secure the fixings to the frame there's no point stealing a partial rack. (Though I'm not sure there's always much logic applied by the people stealing components other than it being removable by allen key and easy to carry...)

These are pretty cheap and would foil a thief with a set of allen keys

Good shout, thanks

47ish mm chainline

For this you'll want a road double. Alfine is lovely for SS bikes, but it's 43mm chain line, like a track crank.

Dombed Allen bolt and glue in a ball bearing.

Ball bearing can be removed glue remover.

Handlebar getting stolen is very common and get better £££ from it, especially hydraulic.

Rack are the least of your problem.

Can anyone recommend a pipe cutter for steel head tubes and bars?

Head tubes or fork steerers?

I use a bahco one, works great

Another Bahco user here.

The replacement wheels/blades are a bit pricey and slightly different to the generic ones that are ten a penny on ebay but you can make them work if you stick a wee washer in beside it.

Can anyone help me understand bb386EVO... Do all bb386 evo bottom brackets have the same width including the cups?

I want to use my Rotor 3D30 cranks (which are currently used with a bsa30 bb) in a 386evo frame. Rotor appear to have a 386evo bottom bracket that is compatible with the cranks, but I'd rather use the Wheels MFG386evo bb which has thread together cups. Just not sure if it'll be compatible with the cranks spindle length?

https://wheelsmfg.com/bottom-brackets/bb386evo/386evo-abec-3-bb-black.html

Thanks

Do all bb386 evo bottom brackets have the same width including the cups?

Yes, that's what the 86 in the name refers to.

Sorry, fork steerers

Preferably both carbon and steel (does that exist?) but just steel is fine too

@M_V is it this one https://leylandsdm.co.uk/bahco-combination-square-150mm.html ?

Yeah I have one of them and I have one of the next size up.

That one will be fine for steerers, bars, seatposts etc.

Preferably both carbon and steel

I wouldn't use a pipe cutter for steel steerers, and nobody would use one for carbon. Get a blade guide for your hacksaw if you don't trust yourself to cut straight without one, and make sure you use the right material specific blades.

I wouldn't use a pipe cutter for steel steerers,

Because it kicks up a bit of a burr?

It does make it square AF though.

I’ve never taken the time to figure out if winding on more gradually lessens the burr.

I dunno if it counts as a special skill or what but I can still cut a wonky steerer with the Park Tool saw guide.

Because it kicks up a bit of a burr?

Indeed, once you've included deburring, the pipe cutter ends up taking twice as long as sawing

Fair.

The time:squareness ratio works for me.

Thanks. Any forum recommendations for BB386evo bb's either in 30mm or 24mm ?

Considering the screw together types either Wheels mfg or Token Ninja which is potentially more forgiving of shell tolerances

Just received a new frame set and the fork steerer appears to be have area of grey filler about 10mm in width, I assume to fill a void or damage. Has been QC passed but still disconcerting . Thinking I should send it back. Or is this acceptable?!

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Is it a planet x?

Too soon?