Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Why does only my front brake squeal in the wet but never my back?

Because your back wheel locks up before you can load up the system enough to generate squeal

The bleed cup that holds the excess mineral oil. Leaving it screwed in allows any air bubbles to leave the system.

Aha the answer I was after. Thanks!

I have blackspire sub4 pedals.
The Allen head on the end cap has rounded off. I can find a replacement which is included in a Complete rebuild kit from the manufacturer but it’s £££ with postage from USA.
Can I get a replacement from anywhere in the UK? Or is there a third party option?

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I bet its the same as the superstar ones

https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/service-kit-for-nano-pedal.htm

They’re fine, it work for the majority of people.

Thanks but it’s the screw in cap I need

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these guys?:https://www.superstarcomponents.com/en/nano-x-pedal-endcaps.htm

sorry - I thought those were included in the set but I see not.

I bought 4 of these and the rear pair have worn extremely quickly vs the front. Anyone else had this, or am I doing something wrong? Previous Swissstop lasted for ages.

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Maybe, thanks 🙏

am I doing something wrong?

My dad used to go through rear brake pads at a rate of knots by dragging the brake. Are you too guilty of that?

Clarks pads?

Can you get away with leaving the system sort of sealed? So the 'air' goes in to the reservoir

Did you try the leaving the brakes on over night?

Yes @lynx, @gbj_tester what is brake dragging 🤔

Was wondering as I purchased a few Clarke brake pads, mainly for the holders.

Wondered how good the pads were compared to swissstop etc.

Variable. Clarks is just a name bunged on various factories various pads. Had some absolutely brilliant ones, and customers turn their nose up because it says clarks on it. Some are decent some are trash.
Those ones do OK, but yes they are fairly soft, better your pads wear than your rim wears no?

My go to for most situations is Koolsstop or swisstop or even the high tier ashima are OK.

Agree on the just a name bunged on. The reason I got them was Halfords dumping ...going to go to a computer as phone typing is annoying

I held the brake lever tight with a strap for like 3-4 hours but tbh I had already got the brake to quite a good state by religiously following the park tool process and then doing the @chiroshi trick where you remove wheel, then squeeze twice, then replace wheel.

Brake felt good but nowhere near as crisp as a GRX lever. Customer happy anyways, so party on.

Got my LBS to install new front brake cable couple of weeks ago, but just noticed - looks like something is missing on brake mounting, a washer perhaps? Or is this correct? Ultegra R8000.

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looks like something is missing on brake mounting, a washer perhaps?

Looks like the wrong screw entirely, it's supposed to look like caliper fixing screw A Y8N204000, yours looks like caliper fixing screw B Y8N206000

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A couple of months ago I brought up those Chinese Ridenow TPU tubes and having invisible leaks on two of them. After some googling it turned out to be a common problem, especially in the bigger MTB versions of the tubes. Leaks become apparent at a certain PSI so you can sort of know the area when you dunk the entire inflated wheel in water but won't be able to locate it outside the tire due to the pressure limitations of the TPU material.

At this point, I've gone through 6 Ridenow TPU tubes and they all failed like this. All of them still usable but they all developed tiny invisible leaks which is incredibly annoying - have to pump them up every day or every couple of days.

It's a shame because the weight and ride difference is very noticeable but I think this will make me go back to butyl.

have to pump them up every day or every couple of days

This is me, but with undamaged latex tubes

Soft pads = ideas for those who feature their brakes, if you’re heavy on your brakes, as in always drag it for a prolonged period, it will wear out quickly.

I know I need a stepped ferrule here but it’s not the one I had in the parts bin that fits a standard “diver’s helmet”. Any clues in my awful pictures as to what I need?

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