Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Bike24 (if they had stock) wouldn't be much different.
https://www.bike24.com/p279675.html

Have you looked on https://hollandbikeshop.com ? They seem to have a large selection of accessories/parts

If a cog is not coming off with rotafix (stood on handlebars with bike upside down and pushed wheel backwards with two hands), is the hub/cog buggered? Put it on with grease but have never taken it off in a year and a half, the lockring was only hand tight when I went to remove it but the wheel skids just fine so I'm thinking it's on pretty damn tight. No access to a vise so am thinking LBS is only resort left.

What's a good penetrating oil that people use? I've been making do with WD40 for rusty bits but am aware it is not ideal; I see a lot of US websites recommend PB blaster but that doesn't seem to be available in the UK, a quick google suggests bulldog BDX or RP90, which seems to be more widely available?

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/355683/#comment15603339

Oh yeah, spotted that one. It's wild that seemingly same part is so wildly different in price. Also seems like a prime example of something you could find in aliexpress or the likes. No cigar yet

Rotafix is a bit of a bodge method for when you don't have a chain whip, so get a chain whip on it and use the method @M_V suggested, or a combo of sitting on wheel/pushing tyre into a wall to make sure all the torque is going into the cog

youtube

this method has always worked for me, until I decided to buy a chain whip. Should be able to loosen cog by wrestling the wheel

This is precisely the rotafix method I was using. I was under the impression that this applies the most torque to a cog, given that it can strip hubs and break cogs etc, so I bypassed the chainwhip once I discovered this existed.

Does a shadow 10/11 speed RD work with your average non shadow 9 speed trigger shifter? Feel like I read that somewhere but maybe I didn’t

My method of removing even the most stuck cogs is to put the wheel back in the bike, fit the chain and pull the wheel so that the chain is too tight. Push the back wheel into the corner of a room, so that the tyre is touching both walls and the DS pedal is parallel to the ground. Stand facing the corner on the DS of the bike, stand on the DS pedal with your right foot and your left foot in the air and bounce up and down. So far it’s never failed.

All,

Does anyone know if you can run a SRAM X-Sync chainring on a SRAM Red double chainset?

Thanks.

hi, i have a trailer that needs some tlc. how do i change the bearings? it looks like two ends of cartridge bearings with a tube in the middle. I tried tapping the tube to push one end out but the metal i soft and the bearings are quite stuck. this is a view of both sides.

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In that second photo, where you can see the edge of the tube, go opposite that and if you come in from the back you should be able to see the edge of the bearing inner race. Get a drift that fits through the hub and use that to knock the bearing out a bit then push the tube out the way so you can access the other side and knock that out a bit. Repeat until you’ve walked the bearing out.

much obliged!

Also this tutorial thread may be useful.

https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/199359/

Or expanding bolt fitted to the inner race and knock out bearing from the other side.

As you have the hub dismantled, this is easier IMO

The proper tool is a bearing drift but yeah, tapping the spacer gently should work too.

Yes, but the expanding bolt works well enough.

How difficult would it be to convert my Donhou DSS4 to disc brake?

Buy 2nd hand 11sp Di2 disc groupset* - easy
Buy Columbus Futura fork, disc - easy

It currently runs DA7900 with all cables external. I see difficulties in the following:

1. Getting a frame builder to remodel the rear triangle
   
2. Routing the hoses neatly; or
   
3. Getting a frame builder to adapt it for internal routing
   
   

Would love to hear peoples thoughts. I could keep it as it is - a light, 10sp absolute weapon - but I wouldn’t mind future proofing it either.

*I’d like to run my current wheels which have a 10/11sp hub.

It'd be cheaper to buy a disc frameset, surely?

Well yeh it would. But this is the best frame I’ve ridden and I fear a point in time when I can no longer maintain it, owing to obsolescence.

Maybe I should get over that and add a Nemo Tig disc to the collection!

I have a rear Campagnolo Record calliper (new model). Does anyone know whether you can exchange the fixing bolt for a longer one so it will work as a front. A longer encassio is not an option.

You need to figure out how much thread engagement you’d end up with. A fork crown is much thicker than a rear brake bridge.

It’s also worth noting that rear Campagnolo callipers are often single pivot and so not as strong as the usual front, dual pivot calliper.

I need a further 10mm. I don't need immense braking power. I'm mainly going to be tootling around town on it.

Whilst high end rim brake frames are becoming rarer, I don't think obsolescence is something to worry about just yet.