Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

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  • yes. either/or would do

    Thank you

  • either/or

    Well, one is possible and has been done many times by the above named as well as other machinists in other countries, while the other simply isn't possible as there isn't the metal there to remove.

  • V-brakes are notorious for being pushed off centre by the force exerted by the routing of the outer cable. The arms may need recentering, using the 2 small screws that act on the springs.

  • Do people use aluslip when putting Ali seat posts in steal frames or do they just normal grease.

  • I’ve always used regular grease and the only time a post slipped on me was in a very bodgy situation.

  • seat posts in steal frames

    I don't steal frames, but in ones I've acquired legitimately I use Copaslip

  • Have found Ali seat posts in steel frames that other have used normal grease in the past and are now siezed but not had an issue when when I've used aluslip.

  • Bomber bikeworks

  • Because I never saw the problem I didn’t look deeper into a solution. I live in a drier climate than the UK and likely dodged that bullet partly because of that, partly because my bikes are stored indoors.

  • Well you are not supposed to in automotive stuff galvanic corrosion and that.

  • Hey every bike I have found with a stuck seatpost has never seen rain and always stored indoors ;)

  • galvanic corrosion and that

    Never seen any evidence of it on joints assembled with Copaslip, whereas I've seen loads on steel/aluminium interfaces assembled dry. By all means use Alumslip if you don't already have Copaslip to hand, it's probably even better.

  • Just chatting, have seen and talked about here that Ali posts stuck in steel frames after using grease.

    Seen enough alloy wheels corroded to steel hubs with copper grease slathered on to use the appropriate grease. The days of one or two greases are long gone.

    Occasionally wondered about using marine or waterproof greases in these situations or ceramic greases.

    Have been told that I'm using the wrong grease by using waterproof greases in wheel and bottom bracket grease.

    Do like the lucas (not the electric Lucas) green n tacy and the red n tacky. Greases

  • Been a-ok on alloy rims so far. I think HoKe may have had an accident using them with carbon rims.

  • Thanks, how do they feel compared to butyl or latex?

  • There are always exceptions, but in most cases taking enough off the 8-10s free hub rotor to fit 11s leaves the shoulder perilously thin if not gone altogether

  • Never ridden latex on the Brompton. They feel softer than butyl. Acceleration-wise I wasn’t looking out for it so don’t know how they compare. If I were in a blind test I could probably pick out which is which from their feel and maybe acceleration.

  • For alloy post in a steel frame I use some kind of anti seize with zinc in it. Usually thick white or grey stuff. You can basically use anything, so long as you remove seatpost and give it a wipe down before and after every winter, even for a bike in daily hard use and kept outside you should be fine.
    Its folk who get a new budget steel frame like a genesis (since 2016 they just aren't finished as well in side thr seat tube), and whack a budget painted (instead of real anodising) alloy post into it. Thing seizes within the first year. Seen dozens and dozens of them under a year old and already chemically bonded to the frame.

    Worst ones I don't see much anymore. The cheap ass carbon wrapped uncoated alloy posts you used to see on budget spesh and trek bikes way back. Water gets into the post and corrodes the alloy (but of salt and sweat helps the process nicely), it expands by a tiny amount inside the carbon wrap and swells into the frame like a rawl plug. Cut out or if really bad can split the seat tube.

  • I don’t think the folks at Genesis know what grease is, I bought a Day One a few years ago and everything was dry.

  • Can anyone help?

    I'm considering upgrading my CX bike from mechanical to electronic shifting. I have disc brakes and a single chainring.

    Is there any difference between upgrading a rim brake machine to a disc brake machine or are the components just all the same? I'm guessing all you need is a pair of shifters and a rear mech along with the battery and junction box.

    Thanks.

  • Nope and neither do most retailers!
    Whyte is the other major uk brand who assemble everything as dry as possible, love them dry bb shoved into a gritty unprepped frame = sounds like frame is cracked when it's just misc dirt on the the threads. Easy thing to fix but for the price these days pretty poor show.

  • That should be the most of it. Don't forget cables (unless SRAM) and there's a chance you might need to redo the brake hoses if they are different generations of levers. Electric cables should follow where your shift cables went, but are a different diameter so some frames need different size rubber grommets or similar.

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Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Posted by Avatar for OmarLittle @OmarLittle

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