Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

The m part headset comes with both. I’m also pretty sure it’s a replacement fork, it’s just a cheap, ali steerer carbon thing.

Think I’ll just risk it for a biscuit and order a specifically 30.2mm headset.

I'm doing my first build with hydraulic disc brakes... is it worth buying one of these or will I be OK with regular cable cutters?

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Those certainly cut cleaner and straighter, but I've managed without before

I'm looking for some.replacememt pads for mt410
The shimano ones seem to be resin. Am I better off with metallic (omnium cargo, hilly town riding) and if so any recommendations?
Thanks

Depends if your rotors are resin only ones, in which case metallic pads will eat them quickly

Metallic/sintered pads manage heat better and last longer, at the expense of less initial bite, increased rotor wear and a bit more noise

A sharp craft/Stanley knife will do a clean enough job.

Cheers @TooTallTim and @grams

I did not know resin only rotors was a thing.

Thanks

Mainly the cheapest Shimano. I'd probably go resin and change more often.

Get the Tektro one, also doubles up as a barb pusher, do have to tighten up the bolt a bit with a 4mm allen key though. Have it for quite a few years now and still work like day one.

Have posted part of the below in the other (perhaps more relevant) thread but got no traction so please forgive the cross post!

UN300 BB died on me two months back (I discovered the issue when chainring started grinding my chainstays..) so changed it out to a secondhand UN55. Unknown vintage but seller seems to not have been the sort to abuse his equipment and BB seemed fine.

Recently changed out cranks from a Miche XPress to a Sugino RD2+stronglight ring. Now getting a metallic click/ping in the left pedal every time I switch from front pressure to back, or from back to front. Get more pings when I'm trackstanding, and seems to need quite a lot of weight to get it to click (can't replicate issue off the bike just pressing with my hands).

Have swapped out the left pedal, checked for cracks in the crank (nothing visible), retightened BB/cranks (no torque wrench, but pretty damn high torque and I didn't seem to have issues before the crank swap), loosened and retightened chainring bolts, checked spoke tension and front QR.. anything else I'm missing before I blame the BB?

My guesses are either I over-tightened the DS when inserting the BB before inserting the NDS (I've read somewhere you're meant to insert NDS before tightening DS all the way), or the crank arm is not perfectly fit onto the taper, but no idea how to check this?

I've read somewhere you're meant to insert NDS before tightening DS all the way

That's more to help you not cross thread things, so NDS just in a little bit as it's generally easier to check things are straight, DS is the one you want to tighten first and fully, NDS is more like a locking cup afterwards, applies to square taper and similar BBs rather than more modern types.

Does anyone know which crown race an FSA Orbit Equipe uses? I can find FSA replacement crown races for

ORBIT CE/CF/IMPACT | 1.1/8" STEERER

ORBIT IS | 1.1/8" STEERER

ORBIT X ALLOY | 1.1/8" STEERER

ORBIT XLII/Z | 1.1/8" STEERER

But no orbit Equipe... It is indeed a 1.1/8 steerer, will any of the above work?

FSA Orbit Equipe

This is the actual part number
https://www.airevelobearings.com/product/fsa-1-1-8-crown-race-h6082/

Which of course you would have known if you could only have been arsed to download the parts drawing from the FSA website. You literally just had to google "FSA Orbit Equipe" to find the part number and then google "FSA H6082" to find a supplier, you lazy cunt

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• 133_no.21.pdf

Had no idea I needed to search for the parts drawing to get the part number. I spent about a half hour typing "FSA Orbit Equipe Crown Race" in various configurations into Google instead.

Anyway, I know you could have been a lot ruder and less helpful so cheers for that!

In which case that is exactly what I've done; threaded and removed and rethreaded a million times to avoid the cross-threading issue. Will loose crankarms cause the sort of clicking I describe then? Have read somewhere that if deformed the softer aluminium conforms to the shape of the taper after a while, or so I'm hoping..

Ebc red are a half way between resin and sintered and suit Omniums pretty good, they wokr on resin only rotors without killing them.
Never seen a new omnium with resin only rotors, they usually spec the mid tier avid or shimano or tektro rotor that is hardened but not fancy mtb stuff

Chris King external bottom cup… either an i7 or i8, so for either 1.25” or 1.5” tapered fork.
I don’t have a baseplate for this to work out which, but the ID of the race seat (or whatever you’d term the below) is around 40.6mm (1.6inches?).
Anyone got a comparable measurement from a i7 or i8, or happens to know?
Thanks

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or happens to know?

40mm > 1.5" 🙂

It's for a 1.5" fork, they used to do a devolution baseplate to allow you to use that bearing with a 1.25" fork but it's discontinued

It's an i7, also you can tell just looking at the cups, they're quite different sizes

Ah! Thanks both. That’s great.

I've used a nylon spacer to space a pannier rack away from a mudguard mount. Is this asking for trouble ahead of a bicycle tour? It seemed to compress slightly when tightening the bolt.

Is this asking for trouble

It is. The plastic will get squeezed out of the gap, leaving the bolt with a: too little tension to prevent unwinding and b: subject to bending loads instead of shear, which will lead to early failure if it doesn't escape first. Replace the spacer with some steel washers if that's all you can get at short notice.

"Replace the spacer with some steel washers if that's all you can get at short notice."

And if you can't even get them then a presta valve nut or some of the concave/vex washers from a v brake pad would do.

Thanks both. Thought that was the likely answer.