Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Thanks. Oh cool yeah I've seen those come up elsewhere on here but hadn't properly looked at what they were before - very neat!

What do you do about a full guard and track dropouts - is that going to be a nightmare getting the wheel in and out?

A lot of people say use the quick release do dads from a front guard on the rear so you can pop them off but I’ve never bothered. It takes a fair bit of force to release them and my work was that I’d end up bending the guard up too much as they pop.

Undoing the 4mm Allen bolts to release the stays doesn’t take long.

You can also just try and position the guard to allow a wheel in/out with the tire deflated and then pump it up once it’s back on the bike.

Running 35c tyres with 45c-ish guards so hopefully should have some wiggle. It’s tubeless so won’t want to deflate too much. But realistically if I have to stop to sort a puncture taking some stays off probably isn’t too much of an extra faff.

Aren’t you using Phil hubs with Allen bolts as am I? I just take the bolts out, disconnect the straddle on the touring canti’s and drop the wheel down and out. Job done, just don’t lose them!

Trade it in for a frame with horizontal dropouts?

Yes I am! Huzzah.

Ha, bit too invested at this point !

Don't understand....do you mean buy another bike

It's about time to move on to the next.

Finishing the last...

Anyone worked with Helicoil thread repair or similar thread repair tools? I did manage - but I think it was NOT my fault - to somewhat destroy one of my direct mount brake threads of my expensive ENVE fork. I think it was not me, since when checking why the brake was noisy the screw was loose a little bit. But who knows and it does not matter. First I will try to repair the M5 thread in a standard way. But to fix it in a perfect way these helicoil stuff sounds good, since I read car people use it.

What is the fork material?

Have you got the kit already? Prefer a timesert https://www.timesert.com/ myself. Have issues with helicoil but that could have been down to user error.

Only evered used helicoil on steel or Ali.

I'm gonna guess crabon but the disk mounts are alu.
I've used them on cranks and on an M5 thread once, can't remember what that was for but it was easier than cranks with the kit we have, can't remember name of said kit but I can look tomorrow.

Yes (but although grounded in fact, it was only tongue-in-cheek).

After a rubber version of this rear stay gear cable exit grommet . This one is plastic and sh### to be honest. If you know a online seller all the better .
Thanks

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Plastic, but the threads Alu it seems - thanks for the link, did not know and will have a look, if available for example.

@snottyotter thanks that would be great. I saw a M5 kit with everything included for an OK price I would say (£40 or so)

Sorry, was my tongue in cheek reply..about what I am like.

Frame make would help.

Cross posted from the mudguards thread:
Anyone fitted 45mm PDW fenders before?
How realistic are the numbers on the fitting guide below? A and C are more like 8mm on my bike.
https://www.condorcycles.com/products/po­rtland-design-works-full-metal-fenders-c­ity?variant=44762223345985

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Why PDW if I might ask? Aesthetic? VO, Dia Compe and Honjos fall in the same category.

I'll do them for a particular build, at a price if they insists BUT it's purely for form over substance.

SKS Blummels or Chromoplastics are my go to.

I've had stray twigs/branch getting trapped in the wheel while riding, took the fender with it, pulled it back, creased no doubt and still going.

Vielo

I have fitted them but not on something that tight. I think you're pushing it but it might just go

Carefully dry fit without marking it and then return if it doesn't work?

It’s also been pointed out that it’ll probably foul the bottom of the headset too. I remember having to use washers to space the fitting away from the fork to make some clearance on my last build too.

Have you considered waterproof trousers?