Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

In the end I cut it down near the BB. Unless the loose part rattles, I'll just seal the hole near the head tube and pretend it doesn't exist.

Middle photo, the inner cable should go over that black metal tab/nub and then over top of 9mm nut and point outwards. You've got it under the nub = very hard to shift and then it'll suddenly fly the FD out too far

I bought some wheels from the recent superstar sale, and they have arrived with quite stiff bearings. The front even feels like it has notches... Is this normal for for brand new wheels? Will they bed in and be fine?

Another set of wheels I've had from them don't have any issues spinning out the box so I'm worried it's a defect. They're their V6 hub so sealed bearings. I'm half worried some part has been poorly machined and may never be right.

Thanks

Any reason that hanging a bike up on the wall by its front wheel would effect Shimano XT 4 pot brakes?

It can affect most brakes, in that any air in the reservoir can make it's way into the brake line when they're hung up. Pumping it a bit while it's right way up should remedy it.

Hmmm interesting. They were a bit temperamental and I realised they were worse after hanging up so I bled them today to perfection and hung it back up.

Never had a problem with my SRAM Guides.

Hopefully thats sorted now. Cheers for the info.

Guide levers have the reservoir in a different place and can be flipped and used on either side, so it wouldn't affect them.

Possibly the cones/bearing pre-load adjusters have been over tightened?

can you put a half link in to a normal non-half link 1/8 chain?

Yeah.

Got it all done tonight finally... fuck me... first and last time I do that (clearly it's not going to be the last time, but I'd like to pretend at least until the memory fades).

Ha, told you.

Are those used with cartridge bearings? I'll email them tomorrow and ask what level of smoothness I should expect. Add it is I don't feel comfortable

Cheers

If they are sealed bearings then they are likely assembled wrong someones put them in wonky and burred the inside of the bore, or they were machined wrong, or the bearings are crap/out of tolerance or there is a preload adjuster somewhere and its way way overdone.
Most sealed bearings (2rs) in bike hub sizes have a lot of stiction, feels sticky/sluggish in the hand, but on a bike its not really an issue. IN freehub's maybe as it will encourage the freehub to not freehub, they often have just 1rs, or open on one side and a metal cage /dust guard on the external faces with a small labyrinth seal to keep the muck out*

*tends to be like this on higher end road wheels. MTB wheels tend to have all the seals all the time.

New frameset has an integrated bearings but I can't get the play out of them. I think it's because the fit between steerer and stem is quite tight. Should I put something on the steerer to make it easier to clamp down with the top cap?

Is your steerer a bit long and you're tightening the topcap onto it?

Durrr... thanks

From the feel I think this is probably what's happened. I've emailed them and got this explanation, with an offer to return them for another set of they don't settle after a few rides, so that's that I'll try.

"The bearings used are high grease fill, SKF bearings which means they will appear a little tight to begin with. The seals used on the rear hub can cause some friction to begin with too, this means they keep more dirt etc out but both the seals and bearings will bed in after some use."

I built up a 1x10 flat bar gravel bike using parts-bin components, but I’m not really enjoying flat bars and am missing the comfort/different positions possible with drops. So I’d like to switch to drops but am struggling to figure what I can keep from the existing build and hopefully not spend too much ££ switching over. Right now it’s got cheapo 10 speed Sram MTB derailleur and shifter. Shimano 1x chainring and Deore hydraulic brake levers and callipers.

Could I keep the Deore callipers and switch the flat bar levers to Shimano STIs? I don’t really know what I’m doing with hydraulics so probs a job for my LBS. Would Shimano 10 speed STI be compatible with the Sram 10 speed MTB derailleur?

Or would I be better off sourcing Sram drop bar STIs and callipers? This is the route I’ve gone down so far but having a hard time finding much second hand.

I may be wrong but I think you need SRAM 10 speed shifters. But no hydros AFAIK.

Technically most sealed bearings don't need that much grease, too much = bearings start to skid around instead of roll, extra drag etc. However if there is space for water to get in, then it will and play havoc. Best thing for your bike is to move to south of France or Morrocco, anywhere drier than here).
There is a table somewhere about the type of grease (NLGI type 1 is best class type for UK riding IIRC, but most come with NLGI type 2, which is better for temps of +20-50c). Theres also a table for grease brand/type vs ambient temp vs usage, as the grease should warm from the friction and turn to oil during the bulk of the usage, if it doesn't then 1) extra friction 2) chance of balls sliding = uneven wear and pitting is likely.

Thanks for this.

But no hydros AFAIK.

Yeah that checks out with my so-far-unsuccessful search. I could've sworn I'd seen 10 speed apex but must be wrong.

It looks like Shimano road levers would work with these Deore callipers. So maybe that's the best route and I'd have to source a Shimano RD.

Only Tiagra which is a faff...

Best bet is go SRAM and run cable disc.

Oh interesting thanks. 10 speed GRX no good with the Deore callipers?

Nope.

You could go GRX but you'll still need a new rear road mech.