Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Since the bolt head is already damaged, make sure you get the face of your modified hex key square and flat so that it can engage well into the head. Spraying or dripping some oil on the bolt might help to reduce the removal torque required too.

I’m going with Netakures idea and going to cut down a normal key

good hex keys are very hard, most hacksaws will not cut them.

Use something like a slitting disk to cut through.

Also that hood can come all the way off

A bimetal hacksaw blade made short work of the one I had, although it wasn't a fancy key. I reckon a large bolt cropper would've cut it too.

Don't have any power in my shed so it was quicker to hacksaw it than getting the extension lead out for the angle grinder.

Ball end is fine for winding bolts in and out but doesn’t get adequate purchase for final tightening or releasing a bolt. This is why the ball end is generally on the end of the Allen key with the least leverage.

Cheers all have sorted it, no idea why it’s in line with what I presume is a brake reservoir and they didn’t offset it. I thought there must be a cunning plan I had missed.

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if i wanted to drill a steel fork with a hand drill, which has been drilled on the rear but not the front

am i ok just buying a good quality hardened drill bit, using the rear as a guide, and then gradually drilling larger?

is there anything i should be aware off? it won't explode will it? burst into flames?

Should be fine, a vice and some kind of lubricant will help

excellent, thank you!

I can recommend the Bosch multimaterial carbide drills with the blue paint. You can pick them up cheap at Toolstation or screwfix. They made short work of drilling a sprocket which is much harder than a fork crown.

thank you, if they're delivered for tomorrow I will update how it goes B)

I'm due for a new bottom bracket - I can't remember what is installed already but think I have shimano UN55 110mm I'm using in a hybrid steel frame. This bike gets used daily now for commuting and the wet weather recently has taken it's toll... please can I ask recommendations for replacement? Don't mind spending out better quality if it's actually going to be more durable - been looking at tange 7922 or phil wood, is it worth spending more on phil wood? My chainline isn't spot on as it is so measure more carefully and get cheapo jp bb or have the flexibility of the pw? Any advice appreciated :)

Shimano UN55 is basically the best, you can spend a lot more for not really much better. Shimano UN55 has also recently been discontinued, so grab one if you can find it or use the new UN300 which is probably about as good but hasn't been tested long term yet, it's cheaper too.

am i ok just buying a good quality hardened drill bit, using the rear as a guide, and then gradually drilling larger?

It's risky using the rear hole as a guide for drilling the front, unless you're using a drill press and a fixture to hold the fork in place, as it's very hard to keep the drill bit flat and level. The Paterek framebuilding manual specifically advises against drilling fork crowns that way. If it was me I'd work out where I wanted the centre of the new hole to be, use a centre-punch to make a punch point at the centre, drill the hole with a pilot drill and then move up to 6mm in two stages using successively larger drill bits.

cool thanks, will stick with shimano, gotta measure properly this time tho :p

Shimano UN55 has also recently been discontinued

These will be a precious commodity when covid fifth wave hits.

Hodl.

Look Keo Pedal Question

I’ve attempted to swap out my pedal axle on some Keo 2 Carbon pedals (for Ti), and managed to break a plastic threaded part... I was wondering if these parts are available or is it a case of buying a knackered set and using the part from them?

Thank you 🙏

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This is the best way, if the rear is ever so slightly off and you go a bit crooked you'll end with a badly centered hole.

buying a knackered set

That, or an axle assembly set.

Thanks @gertrudestein, knackered pedals it will be

Any one have any reccomendatons for rethreading/helicoil cranks in London and how much it might be. A replacement left crank is £5o - I guess it might be similar?

Only the first time I took them out and did think I had them at the right torque and not cross threaded.

trying to get a cog off the track hub, (yes trying to unscrew anti clockwise), gone through 2 chainwhips already, as in the chain deforms and snaps....(can these be repaired?), any other methods? dont want to destroy the hub as its a nice Paul one.

Put it back on the bike and do a big skid?

Some combination similar to this