Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

As far as I'm aware, yes.

It’s not what you think it is. It’s shit.

I mean, I figured it was shit which is why I threw it unopened into the corner, maybe I'll have a look tomorrow.

A while ago, I cleaned out the bottom bracket on my Columbus steel framed Ciocc, then attempted to put everything back. Impatience got the better of me and, while I was screwing in the non drive-side cup, metal started sheering off. Honestly, I unscrewed and then rescrewed the thing in fucking hundreds of times and it just wouldn't go in right. Eventually, I got the thing in with some pretty forceful wrenching, but there's no way on earth that hasn't knackered the thread (though it still works fine despite my bodging it).

My questions are, am I going to need to get it re-faced when I eventually change the bottom bracket? Have I knackered it beyond repair? And if I can get it sorted, is it worth it or will I be charged more than the frame's worth?

Ta.

You've fucked the threads, which will need chasing/recutting if there's enough material left. A shop shouldn't charge a lot for that, definitely less than the cost of the frame, but they could tell you quite quickly if it's possible
If not, you'll need to look at another BB solution, press fit maybe

Does anyone know how I can convert my nonboost WTB super duty front hub from 20mm bolt through to 15mm.
As far as I know, old 20mm hubs are 110mm but this isn’t the same as them being boost right? Because I had a non boost fork. Yet this 110mm business is stopping me buy one of those converter tubes of ally because I assume these will be the wrong length?
Maybe not.

I have indeed fucked the threads. Will take it to the shop and ask what they reckon. Presumably this is not something I should attempt myself, given my impatience and cack-handedness with the bottom bracket.

I doubt you'd be keen to buy the BB tap set as they are ££££. If ever there was a LBS job, this is it.

I thought as much but good to have confirmation. Is this a job any LBS worth their salt should be able to do?

I'd say there's small but real chance that a shop might mess it up if the mechanic hadn't done many. But any reputable shop should be able to handle it.

A frame builder may offer to sleeve and pin it for fairly sensible money if your after a longer term solution but will be more ££ than just a re-cut...

Is this a job any LBS worth their salt should be able to do?

Definitely. I've chased the threads on BB shells many times, albeit on new frames, and I have absolutely no formal training in such things. Any competent bike mechanic should be able to do it.

Your Ciocc is Italian thread? Not every LBS has Italian taps.

If it’s Italian and it’s jammed in there with crossed threads or whatever then maybe it’s better than if it were properly threaded in!

Have I been totally dumb? I bought 11 speed road 12x142 endcaps for this hub, and the through axle from Brother for the frame but the axle doesn’t fit through the drive side endcap. The frame is 12x142 TA so I thought it would work - im guessing I’ve missed something*

*beginning to think the eBay seller that I bought the pair of 12x142 end caps from has sent me the wrong size. I bought the pair but all I needed was the drive side end cap, comparing the original end cap that was already on the wheel and allows the axle to pass through freely, with the one from the eBay seller, the new one definitely has a smaller diameter no?

DT Swiss? you might've gotten 135x10mm caps by accident

Yeah after some more researching, I think that is definitely the case. Balls! Today was going to be build day :(

Will an external BB not be the ideal solution? See https://www.bikemonger.co.uk/yst-threadless-bottom-bracket-58-p.asp?_=&variantid=60

I have one of these on my old Carlton steel frame, works fine. Mavic used to do something similar, I had one on my Vitus 992 many years ago.

Weirdly enough, I don't think it is Italian thread.

That could be an option. Limited to square taper cranks, though. Which may not be an issue as the plan is to build it up with 'modern' components that are on the older/cheaper end of things.

Back again at the mercy of your wisdom

I’m trying to put an 11 speed 11-42 Shimano cassette on a Dt Swiss 370 LN 11 speed freehub. I’ve got the correct amount of spacers, none behind the cassette, placed in their correct positions (I think) but the cassette seems too wide for the hub body? The lockring and the threads on the hub aren’t making any connection at all

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Fairly basic question but a search of the forum yields no joy; have a pair of alu vintage drops (3t Morphe) which have developed a creak after adjusting them downwards for some BDHU. Bar doesn't look damaged from a superficial surface check, is there any other way that I could ensure this isn't some sort of fatigue from having overtightened the (quill) stem; any idea what would be causing this creak?

For more context, the creak seems to only occur when pushing on the bars (in the drops or accelerating when seated) but not when pulling (e.g. climbing or sprinting).

Edit: shifted the bars around again and problem seems to have gone, still don’t know what would have caused it in the first place though!

Calling the expertise of LFGSS. I've got Rs505 flat mount calipers. What do I need to make that work with flatbar Alfine brake levers?

Never mind, same hoses on both. Sweet!

Is that freehub definitely 11speed?

Following this, do you have a spacer behind the cassette and have you tried without it?