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• #27
Winston Vaz is forum go to if you are in London.
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• #28
Thanks very much, based in east london so that works
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• #29
What are the forums thoughts on cutting 2mm of thread off the end of a straight spoke? I’m fixing a 650b MTB front wheel and need to replace a spoke. The closest ones I’ve got poke out 2mm past the nipple head when the wheel is trued. From looking at it I’d say the spoke still has plenty of thread engaged so as to maintain structural integrity...
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• #30
The nipple won’t screw down and come off the thread, it’d bottom out at the end of the thread so if it’ll tighten up it’ll be fine.
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• #31
Anyone know who in London to go to in order to remove two sheared off bottle cage bolts? One on down tube, one on seat tube. Have tried all DIY methods to no avail. Imagine they will need drilling out
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• #32
I'm trying to run a new veloce 10 speed front mech with oldish 10 speed Chorus setup, but can't get the front mech to shift up to the big ring. The chainrings are TA (vento) I think -I'm trying top run a 39/50 combo. Any ideas what the problem might be, or if there is a compatibility issue anyone?
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• #33
Bought a set of wheels from here recently and have just put them on a bike for the first time. Installed the cassette and tightened the lock ring but noticed a little bit of a metallic rattle when I put the bike down. Have had a closer look and the cassette/freehub seems to move laterally by 1-2mm. Is this something I can fix be tightening something somewhere or is it a knackered freehub? Hubs are White Insustries T11.
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• #34
Have you put a 8/9/10 speed cassette on it? You might be missing the spacer that goes on the freehub before the cassette.
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• #35
No, it’s an 11spd Ultegra cassette that I’ve swapped off my other wheels
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• #36
If I want to fit a square taper MTB chainset to an English BB shelled road bike do I have to use a MTB BB? I'm thinking retro Ritchey MTB chainset on Shimano road BB, is this possible?
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• #37
If you can move the cassette cogs independently of each other with your fingers and only slight force, then you’re likely missing a spacer.
If they seem to be on tight then it’s the freehub that has play. 1mm is pretty normal but 2mm sounds like a lot for an 11sp, and it shouldn’t really rattle.
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• #38
You just need the right width square taper bottom bracket
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• #39
Thanks a lot. How would you work out what the correct width is?
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• #40
Thanks for the response.
Have had another look and I think 2mm is an overestimate. No independent movement in the cassette cogs and it’s on pretty tight so assume it’s the freehub. Is that likely to be serviceable or a sign of a freehub that’s passed its best?
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• #41
Not sure if this is the right thread but oh well.
I'm after a decent workstand for the home garage, spent years in shops so used to hefty park or kestrel.
Are they are stable decent home ones or am I best to go all out on the park prs3.2 from Madison?
Heaviest bike is an omnium
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• #42
...spent years in shops so used to hefty park...
As am I yet I’ve never been pissed off enough by my cheapo Bike-Hand stand that I’ve bothered replacing it.
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• #43
If there’s no wobble there’s a good chance it’s the freehub, which could be loose or could be knackered. If you’ve got the tools you could try and loosen the freehub a bit then tighten it back on, see if that solves it (would recommend against just tightening first as it’s easier to over-tighten that way).
If knackered, it depends on the type of freehub you have whether it can be serviced or only replaced.
http://www.whiteind.com/freehubbodies
Seems White use Shimano hyper glide c or micro spline free hub bodies, with pawls instead of a centrelock. Centrelock are meant to be replaced (despite being on some Dura-Ace hubs and costing £150). If it’s got pawls it might be serviceable.
Hope that helps.
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• #44
Try to find the recommended spec for the crankset, or whatever was used before. I'm not great with old standards but here's a Sheldon chart.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html -
• #45
Recommendation for a bladed spoke holder?
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• #46
I got with my Fulcrum wheels that tool:
https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/fulcrum-bladed-spoke-holder-wrench-t-02
My friend has this:
https://www.wiggle.co.uk/park-tool-bladed-spoke-holder-bsh-4
I like PT tool more. -
• #47
Cheers for the detailed reply! I’ll get the cassette off and see what I’d need to loosen/tighten it.
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• #48
Hello there, hope that’s correct place to ask!
I have Carrera TDF PRo and it’s now asking for some changes. It is currently supplied with Shimano RD2300 and freewheel.
If I just buy whole groupset, ie Tiagra: https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/shimano-tiagra-4720-10-speed-groupset-disc/rp-prod193689 will that be compatible? I understand wheel will have to be replaced to support cassette, but is there something more? Is there a place in London where I can bring this bike with parts to have this done that you can recommend? Any help will be appreciated. -
• #49
Thanks very much, should have known Sheldon... Much appreciated
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• #50
Don't think you'll need to change the wheel, just swap the cassette over.
But the groupset you posted has disc brakes, does your bike have discs?
Rim brake:
https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/mobile/shimano-tiagra-4700-10-speed-road-groupset/rp-prod138440
I got hit by a car the other day, and my bike is a bit fucked. There’s a big wrinkle in the down tube. I’m going to bin the forks, but does anyone know someone who could fix the frame?
Old photo to show difference
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