Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

Lovely. Will start bodging soon then.

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I'm switching a flat bar single speed with v brakes over to drops. I'll be using some Sram S500 levers I picked up on here and pretty sure I'll need to switch to mini-vs because of the differing cable pull. From reading a bit it sounds like people have varying experiences depending on the specific lever/brake combo. Does anyone have any recommendations of mini-vs to go with the Sram levers? Ta!

I need to swap out the cranks on my bike as they need new chainrings and a BB that I can't be arsed to order.

I have available a few sets of Shimano Hollowtech II cranks, but only one BB (BB-5700)

I have the following compatibility questions.

Are Hollowtech II BBs all the same across the range (will the one I have work with all Hollowtech II road cranks?)

The frame is 68mm English thread BB (I think) so this should work with 2? 2.5mm spacers?

The groupset is 9 speed Campag, the cranks are either 10 or 11 speed Shimano depending on which I fit, will there be issues with the 9 speed chain?

I think all should be fine, but don't want to spend a few hours taking apart, reassembling, to find it doesn't work.

Are Hollowtech II BBs all the same across the range (will the one I have work with all Hollowtech II road cranks?)

Not quite, there are (talking threaded shells) road and MTB ones, and some wider MTB ones. Although from what I can tell the cups are essentially the same and the internal sleeve spacer between is different to match the axle length of the cranks. Road BBs don't use spacers and are only for road cranks on 68mm shells, MTB BBs use spacers depending on shell width for MTB cranks. If your cranks are MTB and you want to use the 5700 BB then don't bother with the internal spacer and use the right amount of 2.5mm spacers on the cups.

The frame is 68mm English thread BB (I think) so this should work with 2? 2.5mm spacers?

2 spacers on the drive side, one non drive side for MTB cranks, get rid of internal sleeve, no spacers for road cranks, keep sleeve.

all Hollowtech II road cranks?)

Missed this bit, ignore all the MTB bodging, yeah, they'll work fine, no spacers needed, chain stuff will be alright too.

Perfect, will get it all fitted tomorrow

Thank you

If your cranks are MTB and you want to use the 5700 BB then don't bother with the internal spacer and use the right amount of 2.5mm spacers on the cups.

Just for fullness of clarity, I believe the road and mtb bearing cups are different widths so it's not as easy as adding spacers to a road bb to make it into a mtb one.

I used to think so, but being short of BBs over lockdown made me double check and they seem to be the same and have worked the same when I've tried it.

But I still wouldn't recommend it unless your stuck.

I stand corrected then. And good to know!

I want to convert my MTB to AXS. It has a standard 10 speed shimano freehub body (Ringle hubs). Some questions:

1. Is there any way round having to fit an XD driver?
   
2. If I have to fit one what are the go to options and will it likely fit my 2013 cannondale?
   
3. If I manage to get a 12 speed cassette fitted do i just need this and then I'm good to go? https://www.bike-discount.de/en/sram-gx-eagle-axs-upgrade-kit?number=20097711&__delivery=11
   
4. Is bike discount any good? (I hear people on here using it a lot)
   
5. Is boost an issue? I don't really know what it is. Wider something I think.
   
   

Thanks.

You'll need a chain, cassette and chainring too.

You'd have to use XD unless you buy a 3rd party cassette, I'm not sure if there are any. Sunrace maybe.
Boost is a wider rear wheel spacing. If your frame is not boost, that is 148mm, you can't use boost wheels
Bike discount is good

12 speed HG fitting cassette: https://www.wiggle.co.uk/sunrace-csmz800-12-speed-cassette

that looks like an m5 (?) helicoil insert. Possibly it's already been fixed once?

In any case - worth trying this or similar

https://www.screwfix.com/p/helicoil-eco-thread-repair-kit-m5-x-0-8mm-14-pieces/887fr

http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/129815-campagnolo-super-record-front-mech-thread/

^ that seems to be the same issue

Cheers man, that’s super handy and does sound to be the case.

Have sent you a PM, thanks!

Alternative chainset for fc-m660? Needs to be hollowtech and 44-34-22 combination.

My di2 (6870) rear shifting has gone sloppy. There seems to be a bit of play in the knuckle of the RD - I can push it a few mm side to side. Seems worse in the small ring which I guess might be because of less chain tension.

Is my RD shot (it's probably 7 or 8 years old) or is this normal and I just need to adjust it?

Found a trp flat mount adapter for rear to run 160mm rotor. Will this play nice with Shimano calipers?

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Isn't that a front?

No, i thought that but definitely for rear.

Question about an old steel frame. Rear wheel is centred at chain stays but off quite considerably to the DS at seat stays. V brakes will not work well at all. Wheel is dished, dropouts are aligned, and frame is aligned. I've double checked everything and I'm not sure what to do. The frame isn't anything special and so it might be that the rear triangles don't match? I could file the DS drop out a little?

Are the wheels in the same plane when in the bike, tilted to each other or are they parallel (bike crabbing)? When you walk the bike in a straight line through a puddle, does it create one wheel track or two?