Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

a few turns of insulating tape depending on how much shimming needed

https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-510-insulating-tape-black-33m-x-19mm/4129v

Ah, thank you both. Will try a bit of both.

Both !? NO!
Just use some tape, or a bit of old plastic milk/coke bottle cut to make a shim.

No, thanks for both the answers, oh, er… just re-read my reply. Ignore me, trying to cook tea, answer threads, process memes, build a bike, etc.

So I have a 90s Nigel dean racing frame in 531c. I bought a set of wheels on here (Easton EA70s). I’ve coldest the frame to 130 spacing but The rear wheel does not sit central between the seat stays at the brake bridge - the gap between the rim and stays is asymmetric measuring 21mm on the ds and 25mm on the nds.

Things I have done:
Checked wheel dish - wheel is equal and fine.
Checked dropout symmetry with string - pretty close to being equal at the seat tube.
Tried another (older) wheel - which sits central.
Adjusted dropout screws to get wheel centred at chainstay/bb.

Because an older wheel sits true I’m wondering if the issue is to do with dropout/wheel interface so the wheel is not sitting vertically and i need to realign dropouts - although I can’t quite see how they can be so far out to cause the 4mm different at the brake bridge.

Any thinking on what to do /try next much appreciated.

What are the OLN dimensions on both wheels? I take it the Eastons are 130mm, is the older wheel the same?
How's the dishing on the older wheel?
Could you re-dish the Easton wheel to sit central in the frame (as opposed to the wheel jig/dishing tool)?

although I can’t quite see how they can be so far out to cause the 4mm different at the brake bridge.

Any angular misalignment at the dropout would be very small to cause just 4mm out at the diameter of the wheel

Yeah both are 130 - I think the old wheel is dished correct too. Have checked both in another frame.

Thanks - I’m so annoyed - I’ve been waiting all year for a chance to build this frame up - stupid bikes - I shall look at dropout realignment

What happens if you flip the Easton wheel over and stick it in backwards?

The misalignment remains in the same place - which I think tells me it’s the frame / dropouts.

Sounds like something went a little off with the cold setting.

what happened was that I thought the frame was 130 spaced but when I put a wheel in i realised it was 126. The wheel was misaligned at the brake bridge about the same as now - when jammed in - but also when doing the string test with no wheel the rear dropouts were out of alignment with the frame - so I thought by re spacing the rear and getting it aligned with the seat tube correctly it would fix the issue - but it didn’t - why the old wheel aligns better is weird too - I think it may be down to the locknuts being smaller allowing the wheel angle to be less influenced by potentially wonky dropouts. The eastons have larger flat axle caps which contact more of the dropout. Dunno - have ordered dropout alignment tool - if that doesn’t work I’ll need to find an LBS or frame builder to look at it.

Or get an old non-QR axle with nuts and washers for each end. Cut the axle in half and then bolt each half into the dropouts, you can see the misalignment where the axle does not meet in the middle ;-)

A half link chain doesn't fit a standard chain tool? Thanks bike standardisation!

Is there a different chain tool I should be using? (For a Clarks single speed half link chain)

Just don't use a half link chain.

An excellent suggestion if made 5 hours ago before I bought it naively thinking my chain tool would work...

They're bad for chainring/sprocket wear too, if you need the extra adjustment then one halflink is a better idea, I think all the park CT-3.x I've used have worked with half links, it's usually the ones with back plates shaped like traditional chain links or enclosed ones that don't work well with halflink or unusually shaped chains.

Hello all, I'm trying to route cable in a new bike build for the first time but I've noticed that the outer length of cable slides in and out of the frame hole as the hole is too big for the cable grommet meaning that maintaining tension on the gear cable is impossible, any ideas?

Can you run a full length of outer?

No as the cable exits by the BB and then has a length of external brackets for the inner wire to fit through

Photos or frame type would help

Its a Merlin g2x gravel bike, here is what the frame tube door looks like

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Agh your gonna love this . As i did
The little hole is an allen head and it unscrews taking with it the hole cap . Then poke a spoke or similar into your outer cable . Remembering which way the thing goes back on. Dont over tighten

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Whether your being serious or not that dosnt answer my question