Mechanics and Fixing Any Questions Answered

^^^ that looks like a good suggestion if you don't need adjustment then.

Thanks all! I guess I can also try combining a mickey adjuster with that stepped ferrule...
Will look for a Raleigh original one as well

Maybe a modern 4 mm gear cable barrel adjuster will do, rings a bell.

found something called "step down ferrule" - seems to fit the dimensions
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133596117440

I’m supposed to be going on a cycle tour on Sunday and having some bike issues.

Other issues beyond my control mean I’m trying to cobble a bike together to use last minute.

I have a sunrace 10 speed 11-46 cassette, which comes with its own version of a goat link. I have a deore m6000 RD long cage. Apparently the max cog capacity is 41 but I should be able to get it to reach the 46t cog with the goat link? I’m just going to use bar end friction shifters in the hope it will be more simple. No front mech.

Pushing the RD in with my hand seemed like it wouldn’t go far enough, although now thinking about it I didn’t adjust the limit screw.

Alternatively I do have an SRAM rival 1x RD which apparently only has a max cog capacity of 42.

Feeling a little out of my depth and a bit stressed...

I have a SRAM 1x derailleur with a 46t cassette. Deore might work too, if not use that goatlink and you'll be fine.

I believe the m6000 will work with a 46t without the goatlink. Wind the B screw all the way in to start with

Ok it looks like the RD will clear the cog with b screw all the way in.

But the bar end shifter does not seem to pull enough cable to move across all 10 cogs. It’s a microshift BS-M10 so should work with shimano MTB 10 speed.

Edit: I had just installed the shifter wrong. Duh

What’s the cable tension like when the derailleur is in the smallest cog?

So it’s shifting but won’t go further than the 8th cog. I’ve installed the RD as far back as it will go and the “goat link” is installed. It looks like I need a longer B screw as well?

Edit: I should say it won’t go further without the chain touching the cassette, the shifter and RD are moving far enough.

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You need to unbolt the mech (middle of the big three bolts) and rotate the mech's integrated hanger wotsit 90 degrees clockwise.

Ah ye, thanks that’s done the trick.

It will go into the 9th cog but the chain is no longer engaging with the cog in the RD at this point. It will go into the 10th cog if I hold the shifter as far as it will go (suppose it needs more tension) but still it’s not engaging with the teeth in the top cog of the RD.

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Could the chain be too short? 🤷‍♂️

Yes I did wonder that. I put the extra link back in, don’t have another link.

If you back the B screw out slowly now that you know it will clear, the top pulley wheel should move forward and catch the chain

Thanks, that has worked! It’s making a bit of noise in the top cog but its shifting through all gears. That will do for now and I need to get on with other stuff.

Thanks everyone who’s helped, feeling a lot less stressed now.

bit of noise in the top cog

If it’s not an issue with the hanger alignment, limit screw or indexing, it’s probably the jockey wheel + chain + cog rubbing. Fixed with the b screw but since you’ve maxed it out it’ll keep rubbing.

I've got the b screw as far out as I can without the chain catching the bottom of the cassette in the largest cog.

I will have a look during my trip and see if i can improve it. Thanks though!

the cable is out of the housing on the chain stay gear cable stop - might be an issue

My new BB does not have a tube between the shells - Hope 30mm.

How do I stop my Di2 / Brake hose calliper eating the crank spindle? Duct tape...?

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My wife’s road bike has average to rubbish rim brakes. It lives in Spain so I am with it for 2 more days then won’t see it for another year.
I suspect it has long drop brakes but how do I check? I want to try to get some better brakes when we are home ready to take and fit next year.
Thanks

Measure from centre of brake mount hole to centre of braking surface on rim, that will give you the middle of the range of brake arms that will work.

Thanks!