First Timer 80s Raleigh Conversion

Parcel Force have just been:

Single chain ring bolts:

Wheel set and rear cogs:

• I wouldn't trust a seatpost that had been subject to aggressive removal: do yourself a favour and bin it.
  
• Stop fucking about with the paint: it's fine. This was, is and always will be a "beater". Stick the money in your piggy bank for the next build.
  
• Don't fuck about with the braze-ons: all you will do is make it less versatile and it will never be whatever it is you think it will be, minus braze-ons.
  
  

You know the scrotes who have spent more on shit accessories and tacky colour-coordinated tat than the actual car is worth? Who could have spent their money on a decent motor, rather than a world of naff trying to turn a Nova 1.0l into a Golf VR6?

Build this as cheaply as possible; ride it much as possible; then build a 2.0 with a nice frame, a nice paintjob and quality components using what you have learned from 1.0.

I'm in a similar position - I sold my Paddywagon as I now have a skip-find of an old road bike which has at some point been bodged into a single-speed (still has a double chain ring on the front).

The wheels are shot - I've chucked the front already and I'm in two minds about the rear, which does seem to be much newer and in better condition.

The paintwork is pretty shabby, although the frame seems sound.

So I'm going to get the cheapest flip-flop wheelset I can find (126mm spacing at the rear) and reuse as much else as I possibly can.

I thought about getting it powdercoated but, as the man says, do this one on the cheap as a beater and think about doing a fancier job on the next one once I have a better feel for what I want.

Hey dude, I really don't want to rain on your parade, and it's great to see someone building up a bike for thmselves, but you're going to have some issues with that Biopace chainring. First off, it's not round, but more of an oval shape, and so you'll never find equal chain tension, which is fairly important especially if you're riding fixed. Also, the design itself was slated after being released as the apex of the oval isn't in the 'dead zone' of the crank rotation, so it ended up being tougher on your knees and no more efficient than a normal ring. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it really isn't useable without a variable tensioner/derailleur.

What wheels are they?

Thanks for the advice mate - so now I need to track down a new, round, chain ring that has a suitable pcd to fit that crank?

The wheels are from singlespeedcomponents

Cool - thanks. That's who all my googling keeps coming back to as the best bet for a "value" wheelset for my build.

Thanks for the advice mate - so now I need to track down a new, round, chain ring that has a suitable pcd to fit that crank?

Well, the ring doesn't necessarily have to be new! But yeah, something round would be good - and I think biopace rings are 130bcd, but don't quote me on it. Also, I haven't looked back through the thread, so forgive me if it's already been covered/if you already know, but you'll need a ring that matches your chain width - so if you have bought a 3/32 cog/chain to use with the biopace, you won't be able to use a new 1/8 ring, but as I say, I'm sure you realise that already. You can of course use a 3/32 chainring with a 1/8 chain/cog - it's not ideal, but it works. Hope that helps.

Hey dude, I really don't want to rain on your parade, and it's great to see someone building up a bike for thmselves, but you're going to have some issues with that Biopace chainring. First off, it's not round, but more of an oval shape, and so you'll never find equal chain tension, which is fairly important especially if you're riding fixed. Also, the design itself was slated after being released as the apex of the oval isn't in the 'dead zone' of the crank rotation, so it ended up being tougher on your knees and no more efficient than a normal ring. Sorry to be the bearer of bad news, but it really isn't useable without a variable tensioner/derailleur.

It seems the cycling God that is Sheldon Brown actually rode fixed on a Biopace chainring with no sufficient troubles...

http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html

@Pauly1978: Based on the above link I'd utilise the setup you already have when fully built just to test and to see if it actually does work for you. Could save you a couple of £ if it works rather than dismissing the Biopace and buying a different chain ring without trying it out. Great thread/build.

Well, the ring doesn't necessarily have to be new! But yeah, something round would be good - and I think biopace rings are 130bcd, but don't quote me on it. Also, I haven't looked back through the thread, so forgive me if it's already been covered/if you already know, but you'll need a ring that matches your chain width - so if you have bought a 3/32 cog/chain to use with the biopace, you won't be able to use a new 1/8 ring, but as I say, I'm sure you realise that already. You can of course use a 3/32 chainring with a 1/8 chain/cog - it's not ideal, but it works. Hope that helps.

I've got the wider rear cog / chain. It was just the lack of roundness I was unaware of. I've had a quick look on eBay and there's plenty to chose from. Just need to confirm pcd size.

It seems the cycling God that is Sheldon Brown actually rode fixed on a Biopace chainring with no sufficient troubles...

http://sheldonbrown.com/biopace.html

@Pauly1978: Based on the above link I'd utilise the setup you already have when fully built just to test and to see if it actually does work for you. Could save you a couple of £ if it works rather than dismissing the Biopace and buying a different chain ring without trying it out. Great thread/build.

Thanks for that mate. This certainly is a lot steeper learning curve than I anticipated, but I'm really enjoying it so far.

Today I have gone against 99% of people's advice so far on this thread and started turning my braze ons into braze offs. Pics to follow.

Braze on:

Braze off:

I used a Dremel with a cutting disc to do the majority of the work, before moving onto a grinding stone. They all need cleaning up with a file / sand paper now, but pretty happy with the results.

I did mean to take some in progress shots to show I didn't just hack into the frame with the Dremel all guns blazing.....but I forgot.

You'll have to trust me that there was measuring, marking and cutting small bits at a time. I left about 1mm of metal more than I needed to when cutting, then have started grinding that down on most of the areas. The ones on the down tube are going to be the most annoying, purely because they'll also be the most fiddly to do and on view the most - so I need to get them 100% right.

Looks like I know what I'll be doing tomorrow then.

Shift working does have some advantages.

Having seen that Sheldon has done it, I'll contradict everything I said, agree with Fuji ^^^^ and say just go for it with the Biopace - it's going to be a bit of beater anyway, and as has been said, may as well find out if you like riding fixed first rather than spending where you don't need to. Good luck with the rest of the build.

Cheers for the advice!

Found some inspiration: http://www.flickr.com/photos/tenkely/sets/72157607675813620/

Shimano PCD is 130mm: 3/32" chain rings are cheap and plentiful.

If you do decide to get a replacement chain ring and want to be completely 1/8", Velosolo have them too.

Braze on:
...
Braze off:
...
I used a Dremel with a cutting disc to do the majority of the work, before moving onto a grinding stone. They all need cleaning up with a file / sand paper now, but pretty happy with the results.

Why? What do you do now if you decide that you like riding your first fixie so much that you actually want to put mudguards on it and ride it through the winter (like I've just done).

Why?

1. It looks better
   
2. I don't use mudguards on my geared road bike
   
3. It looks better
   
   

All finished today too - down tube shifter brackets gone:

Shimano PCD is 130mm: 3/32" chain rings are cheap and plentiful.

If you do decide to get a replacement chain ring and want to be completely 1/8", Velosolo have them too.

Good link - thanks mate!

Why?

1. It looks better
   
2. I don't use mudguards on my geared road bike
   
3. It looks better
   
   
   
   

Fair enough it's your bike, but you did say it's for nipping down the shops. I just reckon you've sacrificed a whole heap of functionality for a marginal improvement in the looks of a bike that is never going to be a stunner (and I can say that as I ride an even less special Raleigh frame).

Yeah it is for nipping down the shops / pub / any other errands I can think of. It's not going to be my only mode of transport though.

If it's hammering down with rain, I'll drive. If I'm covering a big distance I'll take my carbon road bike. If the weather's nice and I fancy a few beers at the pub on the seafront - I'll take this.

If the frame looks like the one in the link above, I'll be more than happy with it.

Nearly finished!!!!!

You've done a neat job but that rear dropout looks gash without the hanger.
Good luck with the rest of the build.

You've done a neat job but that rear dropout looks gash without the hanger.
Good luck with the rest of the build.

Cheers man.

It looks EXACTLY the same as the other side.......

The one I won't be attacking with a Dremel: