Archetypes tubeless?

Mac>PC
Clincher>tub
Strength>weight
Weight>aero

So wrong, so so wrong.

Yoda - You must unlearn what you have learned - YouTube

Aero is more important than weight until the gradient gets to around 6%, or so I was advised by a chap in a bike shop.

That rule of thumb doesn't take into account the length of the climb or the rider's power.

The shorter the climb, the faster the ascent and the more important aero. Same goes for the case with a more powerful rider.

Then you have the descent - aero wins and the flat - aero wins.

"High Performance Cycling" has modelled some examples in the Rider & Bike chapter.

Yeah, it's a very broad rule of thumb.

Wheels like 404 FC's are pretty light anyway, I've played around with a range of different wheels, some considerably lighter and I've ended up using my 404's as the do-anything wheelset.

I'd like some 808's for flat-out efforts, and because they look cool.

Im just gonna stick a bit of stans in my tubes this winter.
Should help.

It won't. Tube deforms too much for the sealant to form a plug.

Just get tyres that aren't shit.

Stan's NoTubes Carpet Tack Demonstration - YouTube

orly?
The cold would be the only blighter as you reported in the thread I knicked this from :)

Yeah rly. The video above is stans in a tubeless tyre, not stans in an inner tube.

I ran some stans in some CX inner tybes - disappointing. Actually scored an unusual amount of bog standard flint punctures. Could have just been unlucky, but from reading around my experience was the norm. Sealing inner tubes is not what Stans is designed to do.

Oh. Poo

I thought I'd solved the answer

+

Oh. Poo

I thought I'd solved the answer

Yeah me too. Just made a mess though. Messy job filling tubes, messy job fixing a tube covered in Stans. Dissapoint. And if you forget it's in the tube when you go to pump the tyre up it ejects a load of sealant through the valve, making even more mess.

Well this got incredibly off topic.

On my road bike I run 404's, tubs, with Corsa Pave Evo CG's. I keep a spare tub in my saddle bag, and I have a pack which I put in my pocket which has a can of Pit Stop in. I tape my tubs, and it's a piece of piss. I used to glue them, and found that people bitch and cry far too much about the process. I used to glue a pair in an hour and a half and have never rolled a tub. 100PSI, 74kg including bike.

MTB has Stans ZTR Crest rims with Rocket Ron's, tubeless. I tape them with Kapton tape which is what American Classic sell at a ridiculous mark up. They seated easily although lost air overnight despite putting sealant in. I pumped them back up, rode it, and since then they've not lost any air at all.

Fixed currently has tubes, I just thought tubeless might be a good idea as I forever worry about punctures despite my commute only being a couple of miles, but as I've started using my fixed a lot more often, I just want a more secure solution where I can run decent tyres and still get puncture protection, for me, that's the appeal of tubeless.

Feel free to carry on this discussion any way you want.

Is it worth, what I consider a lot of hassle, just for potentially more p_nct_re protection? You're still at risk from the random leaky tubeless of doom and all that sticky gunk floating around exiting your tyres.
You get to run faster tyres, that are then made heavier due to the sealant but they'll still wear out quicker than more durable tyres and then you need to buy more sealant and new tyre.

I just run thick tyres on my commuter. It's not the fastest setup but if I want to win commuter races I just put my hands back on the bars, stop drinking my coffee and reading the paper and turn the pedal once or twice extra :)

I dunno, I'm thinking about whether or not to use them for something like TransAm but all the hassle just makes me think not to bother.

Oh, if I buy tubeless compatible rims - are they compromised at all? Are they heavier than non-tubeless rims or harder to fit normal tyres onto or anything like that?