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• #1727
I was just following SON's own instructions.
I'll measure the resistance with my multimeter and see how many ohms it is.
1 Attachment
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• #1728
Already did this fix:
3 Attachments
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• #1729
Yeah fair enough! I guess the contact pressure is enough then :)
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• #1730
That's great
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• #1731
You could consider the coaxial adaptor too if you're taking the wheel in and out a lot.
Already on it, see above^^^
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• #1732
I've got one but haven't put considerable miles on it yet. They're single walled so might be a pain to set up tubeless. Not very light obviously.. otherwise about what you would expect. I'm not a wheel expert.
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• #1733
FWIW Shimano dyno hubs are cup and cone, and usually come adjusted far too tight and with a marginal amount of grease from the factory (you can't set the preload properly until it's built up into a wheel anyway). One of the CTC forums' resident technical gurus did some experiments at home and IIRC reckoned that the improper adjustment might be costing >1W in drag, thereby making Shimano hubs look worse in comparisons like this.
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• #1734
All of this is large scary percentages but not actually large W of drag.
I love going riding on the Kinesis now it has its dynamo wheel back in and I don't have to think about adding or charging lights.
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• #1735
That's why I'm switching to the coaxial adaptor. It's pretty neat.
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• #1736
Looking good. It's on my list of things to do. But as ever, it's a long list.
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• #1737
Cheers mate - I've not come across the hub in the past. Not expecting SON performance but worth a punt for £30 I reckon.
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• #1738
I found that the wheel bearings were very tight as supplied. Far too tight.
Being cup and cone bearings they are fairly easy to adjust, the "feel" is quite different to a normal hub with the dynamo complicating that a little with the notchy feel that comes from the magnets.
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• #1739
Ah interesting, I'll make a note to adjust it all before fitting. Thanks man
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• #1740
Anyone got a dynamo hub/wheel and light they're looking to get rid of? Ideally 700c disc QR, exposure/son if possible but happily take recommendations
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• #1741
I now have a spare SON 28h 12x100 hub in black if anyone is after one. I would like what I paid for it; £160. Bought lightly used, never built into a wheel.
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• #1742
Centrelock or 6 bolt? I'm assuming it's a disc brake hub if it's thru axle. Dibs either way.
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• #1743
ah yeah CL
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• #1744
second dibs
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• #1745
Just built up an xt abd and found this, around 1/4 turn too tight on a cone and feels better whilst still having zero play once a qr is holding it in a fork. Didn't open it to inject more grease, maybe should for winter, bike is living outside, usually use shimano green mtb stuff or yamaha outboard grease for really badly sealed hubs
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• #1746
I use Shell Retinax grease, as it's full of corrosion inhibitors and EP additives (downside is it's 'orrible black stuff...). I just backed off the cones enough to squirt it in on the connector side with a grease gun - thankfully it doesn't seem to have reacted with the existing yellow Shimano stuff. I had a bit of faff getting the correct adjustment, as I'd not tried it on a dynohub before (and not helped by the fact that I was doing it in the fork rather than in a hub vice), but eventually got my preferred preload of slight play with the QR open that disappears when the QR is half-way closed.
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• #1747
I use Shell Retinax grease, as it's full of corrosion inhibitors and EP additives (downside is it's 'orrible black stuff...).
All the best greases are horrible, often black, and a bit smelly too because they're full of corrosion inhibitors, EP and solid lubricants.
OTOH, that yellow/green Shimano grease has some corrosion inhibition due to the calcium sulfonate thickener, which has also has some EP properties.
Retinax, now Gadus, greases have lithium complex thickeners which are compatible with Calcium greases (e.g. the shimano one).
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• #1748
Any options for 15mm through axle, 6 bolt dynamo other than sp and son? Nothing wrong with either of those (son is out of budget) just considering options.. tia:)
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• #1750
Already did this fix:
Curious to hear how it holds up. Mine's gotten a bit wonky after a year of commuting (light blinks when you wiggle the line) despite what I thought to be a spot-on soldering job. I'll be going back to the standard connectors when it comes time to redo my wiring.
@Eeyorecore I'd consider picking up something conductive specifically for this (google reckons conductive grease can be found cheap). I reckon the contact pressure should probably be enough that there would still be contact between the metals, but when there are conductive options availably cheap, the extra resistance seems a good thing to try and avoid.