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• #27
Looks good. What are you thinking gears wise?
I can't quite tell, but this is welded right?
If so do you have any close ups of the joins?
Cheers.
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• #28
I think he actually enjoys fillet brazing.
.......the paint. love it. "flamboyant green"
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• #29
........that steerer.
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• #30
Hi
Very nice bike and I really like the colour. I have tried to find the RAL code but the colours I found did not appear to match the photos. Any chance you could let me know the RAL? Many thanks
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• #31
cant remember. its a metallic colour. not sure if it even has a ral number.
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• #32
ral 6016 pearl metallic?
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• #33
british racing green. but without the grey.
dark metallic green. steve called it flamboyant green.
don't know why , but after browsing ral charts all night long, I just would never have chosen a colour called flamboyant green. it just sounds to , well , gay.
what I had in my mind though, pretty much spot on.
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• #34
3 packages arrived today. a hope skewer , as the ambrosia ones (that came with the hubs) are really quite dangerous. this awful little NYLON u shaped washer . dear lord no. I will not have my rear wheel come lose ever again.
another 3/32 144bcd ring that doesn't fit.
and a sram 8 speed cassette.
front ring is a 50t. the cassette has 23, 21,19,17,teeth on there, as my favourite fixed ratios is 50 + 20, this set up feels really ace.
the shifter is 9 speed indexed, so it was tricky getting 6 gears out of the 8 available working smooth, with that old 600 mech. and some kind of smooth chainline. the extra two smaller cogs are like a flux capacitor on my bike. I still want a smaller chainring though, 45 or 47 will be ace for around here. maybe a 26t on the back to. im going to continue to mess about with cable tensions , indexing and limiters tomorrow.
see what happens. maybe get it smoother.
and I have to get used to this huge honking conptraption, works ok though. ugly nasty thing.
after messing around sprinting some wee hills after dark. I can already see the benefits of sti shifters.
and getting components intended to work with each other.whats the weather like tomorrow then.
he he.
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• #35
Always going to struggle with the 9 speed vs 8 speed as the spacing is different between cogs (something like 0.5mm if I remember right) and the cable pull in index mode for that shifter is 9 speed compatable - I'm sure you know that! I could be wrong, but I thought that shifter could be used in friction mode too .. then you can "feel the change" old school like!
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• #36
friction shift is downright dangerous.
like I say ive managed to get 6 cogs running smooth. both the indexing and chainline are factors. and I think that as the shimano 600 mech would of originally been on 126mm spaced frames, it seems to work better with less travel, almost as if the dear sweet old timer just cant stretch like it once did. trying to cope with all these new fangled 130mm frames. the indexing gets sloppy and impossible to get running perfect on either the smallest or largest cogs. so using 6 was easier.
getting a nice chainline is definatly more important than the indexing though. first of , I don't want the chain just coming of the front ring completely. and cos im used to having a perfect (almost) chainline on my fixed bikes, feeling the drivetrain becoming less efficient as the chain travels away from the centre of the cassette, just annoys me.
im enjoying having something to tinker with though.
but also imagining how easier its going to be, to get the bike running even smoother, and a touch lighter maybe. if I chuck some more dollar at it. -
• #37
http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/AKylfE2hY5UQW8K7DxYxYus8kdCxvaft4EBPGAy8xGk/mtime:1372788236/sites/default/files/styles/product_hero/public/images/products/shifters/red_22_sl_1000x1000.jpg?itok=ualURFAA
http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/Tv4xBBASc5Stq_LpIth4wqSt9KeuTfyXMTKITu4lgG0/mtime:1372788236/sites/default/files/styles/product_hero/public/images/products/derailleurs/red_22_rd_1000x1000.jpg?itok=oMjenoDK
http://cdn.sram.com/cdn/farfuture/G0ee_H3mPM44q4ITVgMH3SoF4Li9bpLaGoKqhWeJS10/mtime:1372788236/sites/default/files/styles/product_hero/public/images/products/cassettes/xg_1190_1000x1000.jpg?itok=medcajIS
http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/images/products/medium/20512SHIMANO_L.jpg11 - 26 cassette. or 12 - 32 ? ? 48t ? or 50 t? maybe even a 46 or 44?????
have to get some sums done.
and would that 3/32 DA rings work with a 10 speed chain ?
and would my girlfriend believe me when I tell here the stuff up there only cost 150 quid.?
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• #38
You should get a 46t ring, it is very versatile. My current setup has lower ratios, with a 42t chainring and 11-25 cassette (hilly region + commuting pace) but 46t & 11-28 is the way to go for road use IMHO.
NJS DA crankset with 3/32 ring & 9sp drivetrain turned out to work really well for a friend:
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• #39
relationship wise, sram apex would work out ok!
3/32 is the internal dimension
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• #40
My 11-32/44T combination works well for cross but would be slightly undergeared for 100% asphalt use, but I reckon just upping to a 46T on the front would sort that nicely.
The Retroshift unit is, I find, ergonomically very good- of course you'll have to make your own call aesthetically, I would say they look better in person.
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• #41
definatly need a smaller ring. the current set up is fine if im heading south .
if I go north, im probably better of with a 42t to be honest.currently just got 5 gears. 23,21,19,17,16. 19t is set at approx 42mm from centre of rear wheel. 50 + 19 being the ratio my legs feel most comfortable with.
I need to stop messing with the bike, and just get out and spend some hours on it today. the rear mech will be being replaced soon, but it does look nice though.
I kind of get the impression as soon as the mech gets upgraded whatever problems im having with clunky shifting should disappear.my choice in rear mech is due to me only having that one to use. not aesthetic.
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• #42
relationship wise, sram apex would work out ok!
3/32 is the internal dimension
this is the thing that has got me chewing my nails constantly.
what if I drop big dollar on a expensive shiny group and a DA ring only to find the chain wont fit the ring.
may I ask where this picture is from. id like to do some more R+D. looks like a good read.
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• #43
The way I see it the biggest problem you currently have it the shifter and cassette incompatibility .. The centre to centre spacing of each cog on the cassette is 4.8mm. The shifter should pull cable to make the rear mech move 4.34mm. So assuming you've set the rear mech to perfect alignment at the top of the cassette by the time you've shifter to gear number 8 the rear mech is 4mm approximate in the wrong position. The only way around this with the current set up is friction shift, which you're opposed too, change the cassette to 9 speed .. or a complete new drive train. That's my 2p .. Although there could be some parallelogram incompatibility with the rear mech translating the cable pull exactly in the mech due to design or wear .. And 3/32 is the roller width or internal chain width so as long as the DA ring is 3/32 it will fit. The difference between 9, 10 and 11 chains is the outside width which is important on a derailleur system to ensure the chain doesn't rub on the next cog on the cassette. You will need a derailleur chain though, not a track chain, because these have a 'flexibility' to 'bend' slightly as the chain line moves to less ideal at the extremes of the cassette
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• #45
The way I see it the biggest problem you currently have it the shifter and cassette incompatibility .. The centre to centre spacing of each cog on the cassette is 4.8mm. The shifter should pull cable to make the rear mech move 4.34mm. So assuming you've set the rear mech to perfect alignment at the top of the cassette by the time you've shifter to gear number 8 the rear mech is 4mm approximate in the wrong position. The only way around this with the current set up is friction shift, which you're opposed too, change the cassette to 9 speed .. or a complete new drive train. That's my 2p .. Although there could be some parallelogram incompatibility with the rear mech translating the cable pull exactly in the mech due to design or wear .. And 3/32 is the roller width or internal chain width so as long as the DA ring is 3/32 it will fit. The difference between 9, 10 and 11 chains is the outside width which is important on a derailleur system to ensure the chain doesn't rub on the next cog on the cassette. You will need a derailleur chain though, not a track chain, because these have a 'flexibility' to 'bend' slightly as the chain line moves to less ideal at the extremes of the cassette
agreed. 9 shifter, 8 cassette. works ok but just doesnt . I have set it up so its pretty much perfectly lined up , right in the centre of the five cogs im using. then by the time the mech reaches the outer two cogs , its, well not completely smooth. but usable. definatly better than trying to run 7 or 6.
as im only shifting twice either side of the middle cog.
this is the best way i can get these components working well together. as a 5 speed.I can see my credit card being hammered in the near distant future.
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• #46
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• #47
here you go.
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• #48
lloks to be the best compromise with the existing components .. saves a few grams also if you're counting ...
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• #49
counting grammage with a shimano 600 rear mech.
would be silly.
currently loving this bike though.
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• #50
lol .. It's not that heavy! It's listed as 215g. To put that in perspective a DA Di2 is listed at a similar weight .. and the World’s Lightest Bike when it was in Günter Mai's hands only had, I think 6 cogs! .. I jest of course
silver one is 55cm square. the green goff has a slightly (5mm) shorter top tube. idea was to keep the same distance between ass and hands. but compensate for a comfier, more relaxed seattube angle. but not tottaly mess the geo up.
that's the cool thing with steve though. no matter how dumb my ideas regarding frame geometry where. having a guy who knows what he is doing and will put his experience and knowledge into the design, that's worth the dollar. and the wait.