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^You mean don't use them on a rough surface? Swop to heavier duty wheels off track? That's the plan.
Actually I've seen a pair of sprint wheel carriers for sale, but I think for less money I can make myself a nicer pair.I have just ordered the hubs. Mack says radial is ok and suggests a maximum tension of 120kgf. That should be enough. I don't know why Planet-X described the tension with kgf-cm.
The next thing to think about is internal nipples and a tool to turn them.
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No, not really and no.
Mack is making the hubs and I'll order the rims once he's told me he's nearly done. The main thing I need to do now is figure out where to get some internal nipples from and ideally, ones made by Sapim so as to be a perfect thread match for the spokes.
Wait, there is one thing; I bought the saddle for the bike. Black plastic Haro with holes. I've tried it out on a different bike and it's just right. I'll post a picture of it tomorrow. No idea for seatpost yet.
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And not for having no bar tape?
The picture was taken about 60 minutes after I got my rear wheel back from SJS. The bike was completely dismantled for a thorough cleaning whilst the wheel was away. I put it together quickly with just the minimum parts and lubrication so as to test the wheel, which I did in a traffic free area.
It doesn't look like that normally, so I took the opportunity to take a few pictures of it that way.
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As you can see, I have taken receipt of two 50mm carbon rims. I'm quite pleased with these. They look good. No horrible gigantic stickers to elbow grease off.
I've gone with 50mm front and rear for the sake of lightness.
I could have ordered them earlier, like some other parts, but for no particular reason I decided to wait. During that time the price went down £30. So I've saved myself £60 by doing nothing.
I've got them now because I'm expecting the hubs sometime soon and so I can get de-burring and cleaning done.
I've ordered the tyres too which should arrive before the hubs so they can spend some time stretching. -
It has come to my attention that there is some interest on the forum concerning these rims: just what exactly do they look like, what are all the dimensions and how does one properly build them into a wheel. Therefore I will make an effort to more thoroughly document and share that particular element of the build for the benefit of others.
I am apprehensive of a few things that will be firsts for me; radial, carbon rim, internal nipples, aero spokes, aluminium alloy nipples. I am not worried, I just intend to proceed with due care.
I remember reading somewhere that I should consider not lubricating the spoke threads in a radial build because friction is evenly distributed throughout the threads making self undoing more likely compared to a tangential build that has more friction on one side than the other. I don't fancy assembling any threaded parts without some proper lubrication and of course the nipple/rim interface should be lubricated in any case.Whilst I have been waiting and continue to wait for Mack I have got some other parts.
I have been listening to German poetry and Moravian folk music whilst choosing. I ordered 40mm valve extensions from Planet X at the same time as the rims. A surprise upon arrival was the inclusion of two pairs of specific brake pads (inserts).
Maybe if I had asked before, they could have left out the pads, which I will not need and included the extensions instead.I've made up my mind about pedals (DuraAce spd-sl) and pretty much made up my mind about chain (SuperToughness). I need to order one of the shims from SJS but I can't see how to choose between them. Some people, including me, might wonder why a bike would have such fancy pedals combined with a relatively cheap seatpost; I am selecting parts that should work very well but also be sympathetic to the aesthetic of the bike. The Cinelli post seems best for this.
Also, during this time I have been searching for internal nipples. I have asked in shops and have looked all over the internet. Normally when I've done that for something and not got an answer I go to one guy and he always solves the problem, he was stumped too.
In the end the solution was searching for inverted nipples instead of internal nipples. Although this mostly returned medical images of breasts I found what I wanted.
24/7 cycle shop sells the alloy ones for £1.30 a pair or £1.00 for four brass ones.
DCR Wheels doesn't list them, but I asked and he said he sells the alloy ones for 35p each.
I asked for them in Condor and they said no and pointed me to Strada Wheels. To Strada Wheels I wrote "I am looking for a source of Sapim aluminium alloy inverted nipples.
Do you sell these?" to which they replied "Thanks for your enquiry, we don't sell spokes individually as they are difficult to source and we prefer to keep them for our customers." and pointed me to 24/7 which I had already found. -
Ok. Dem rims:
There is a deficiency of information about these rims, be it 50, 82 or 101mm. They seem like a great deal; lightweight aero carbon for less than £200, now actually under a ton for each depth. What many people might want for various applications. I think Planet-X is missing a trick by not more thoroughly describing their product. And selling the appropriate nipples.
A few questions I had were: what do they actually look like?
I've seen a few pictures and they vary from covered with gigantic stickers with logos to plain.
Mine look like this:
The other side is the same, less the stickers.
No gigantic logo stickers, just a warning sticker/label and some number sticker on each. The other side in each case was bare. No laser etching here. In earlier correspondence with Planet-X they have told me that 'going ahead all their rims will have the big stickers but that with a bit of elbow grease they will come off, if that is what you prefer.'Warning sticker and (serial?)number.:
front
rear
Interesting to note here that maximum recommended spoke tension of 100kgf. Planet-X told me when I asked them what it was earlier, 139kgf.Here you can see that the spoke holes are not perfectly symmetrical. At the inside of the rim they exit at they same point but the angle of the drilling is alternately this way or that. Also note the drive-side specification; I don't know why.
At the tyre bed and at the inside edge we see the regular criss cross we expect of carbon fibre these days, but that 'lay-up' of the outer wall seems odd. It reminds me of the straggly hairs stuck to a freshly hatched chick.
Stickers opposite valve hole.:
These mean nothing to me.
All stickers will be removed.The widths are not specified. Here is that for you:
And precise depth:
Here you see a bog standard 2.0mm spoke through one of the spoke holes:
Here you see that bog standard spoke with a bog standard nipple resting on the inside of the rim; it does not drop through.
Both rims according to my kitchen balance are under 400 grams the rear being a fraction less than the front, suggesting they are the same except the rear has more holes in it.
It has occurred to me that to make the most accurate/relevant measurement of ERD I will need at least one of the nipples I intend to use for the build...
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The tyres are here so it's time to get around to doing rim prep.
Not really any serious de-burring to be done. A few little bits like this.
I've given each of the holes a gentle once over with a small round file.
Next a quick rub over the tyre bed with sandpaper. This is 400 grade.
Roll it up like this so as to avoid any unwanted abrasion to the sides.Then following a quick call to Planet-X, a rub with
acetonewhite spirit.
Whilst I was asking if I should/should not use acetone, I asked about the tension specification discrepancy and the technician advised that I not exceed what is stated on the rim. He didn't specifically say not to use acetone but that they use white spirit themselves.Once the white spirit had evaporated I set about dry mounting the tyres so that they can stretch for some time prior to mounting proper. I don't have the specific tool for tightening the valve extension. I have put them on finger tight; the wrench flats on the valve cores are 4mm and on the extenders 5mm but the width of the flats on the extensions isn't much (I didn't think to measure this until after I'd mounted the tyre(I'll tell you later)) so a small adjustable spanner won't fit.
The soundtrack for the Yellow Beast today has been Sibelius 2, Szell, Concertgebouw.
I've pumped both tyres up to 160 psi and so they will sit and stretch for at least three days, somewhat longer it seems, as I have not heard from Mack yet. I sent him and email the other day asking for an update on my hubs, but have not heard back yet.And before you ask, yes, it was a mission to get those tyres on!
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folks use bdop for nipples and washers
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This, i follow them because it's just an education in doing things properly
Can't wait to see this all built up, thoughts on crankset and finishing kit?
yunofollwprply?
Provisional shopping list:
[]Stem............................Cinelli.....................Pista................Black...............
Wiggleribblecycles
[]Handlebars ................Nitto.........................B123AA.........Black................KinoKo
[]25.4 to 31.8 shim.......Wheels Manufacturing....................Black...............SJS
[]Bar tape.....................................................Cotton...............Black
[]Bar plugs
[]BB.............................see below
[]Cranks......................thinking Omnium.......Black.......165.......need to consider chainline in relation to DA hub (don't see this combo on the drivetrain thread)TokyoFixedGearWinstanleysBikes
[]Chainring.....................^
[]Sprocket
[]Hubs.........................thinking Dura Ace.............considered Phil Wood for greater blackness, I prefer the serviceability of DA and seems most places to be half the price. Also has the rep. everywhere of beaing super smooth. As an aside I ponder the effect of changing the original DA balls for ceramic ones.TokyoFixedGearWinstanleysBikes
[]Lockring
[]Chain.......................Considering Super Toughness. Is it really worth it? I like very much the NJS closure and use a very shiny DID race chain most of the time. That Izumi would look the bee's knees on this.
[]Pedals..................Kneejerk says DA SPD-SL, but £200 a pair?
[]Spokes..........Black obvioulsy. Main question is DT, Sapim or Wheelsmith. Not sure if WS do black spokes or how easy they'd be to get here. First thought was Black Revolution 1.8-1.5-1.8 if I can find them. I think Sapim will be eaiser. Update, correct and better if CX-Ray. CycleBasket?
[]Nipples.........Black.......should really be from same maufacturer of the spokes. Not going the ally route.
[]Rims.................Going for tubs......I know the reasons not to etc. My mind is made up.......Would like something with some sort of aero shape.......must come in black...........most of the carbon options are too pricey. I'm thinking Velocity Pro Elite, but wouldn't mind something a bit deeper. Bike is likely to have a front brake in the future so a braking surface for the front should be an option.
[*]Tyres.........Tempted to go straight for Tempo 2, but they really won't last long will they. Probably will start off with Podium or Sprinter. 19mm should be good on Pro Elite rims.I'm putting off ordering anything before I have a more concrete list to avoid needless multiple delivery charges.
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Also note the drive-side specification; I don't know why.
Because they are offset, or "off centre" drillings. To allow for more even spoke tension between drive side and non drive side when using road hubs. (They are road rims).
I've just built a set of them for track, on large flange hubs. Using a 50mm 24h "rear" for the front and an 80mm 24h for the rear. Hopefully be able to test them tomorrow so will tell you if they explode and kill all of the things.
I've seen them used on other people's track bikes though so must be usable.
noBlakes
Crop
rive_gauche
NickCJ
Lynchman
TM
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About
Yellow Beast
Posted by
@Polka_Dot
you're better off just swapping it out, with a rough surface like it is you wouldnt go anywhere far without damaging your hub anyway.