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• #2
If there's still time I think you should go for the polished decals thing, where you polish underneath, then bead blast.
Like so:
(sort of... it was the first image I could find).
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• #3
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• #5
If there's still time I think you should go for the polished decals thing, where you polish underneath, then bead blast.
That looks really top notch, like something that you'd see in the porn thread. It's too late as it's probably already been started on, but personally I like the nod to performance of plain bare alu.
I've been looking at these bargainous ec90's, which have the added bonus of being decal-less
One of those Fundas - real or fake, could look pretty nifty as well.
I'd go for Ellipses as well
I agree ellipses would look nicer, real shame I sold mine now. Thanks for the link to the ec90's, will seriously consider that for the price. Just this is putting me off http://www.pedalroom.com/bike/cannondale-capo-optimo--6744. Any links to these fake Fundas?
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• #6
Don't get the EC90SLX .. The forks are nicely made but really flexible.
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• #7
fundas would be a bit fat for this I think, plus significantly wider than the headtube.
I understand that alpinas would be a bit on the heavy side, what about alibaba? -
• #8
Don't get the EC90SLX .. The forks are nicely made but really flexible.
Do you think?
I'm not small and I don't notice anymore flex than the previous alooy steerer Tifosi's I had.
I think basing assumption on that dogs dinner on pedal room would be harsh - the heatube/fork interface works well I think (and they're light&cheap)
Can some one chop in some ffundas?
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• #9
If alloy steerers are allowed 8bar krzberg?
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• #10
^^ I can only speak from my experience of the Easton compared with Storck Stiletto Light and Enve replacements that followed on the same bike
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• #11
They almost look better than the edge forks, thanks for the link Tenderloin.
fundas would be a bit fat for this I think, plus significantly wider than the headtube.
I understand that alpinas would be a bit on the heavy side, what about alibaba?I personally think ec90's will look too delicate (although that's a great deal & stealth), it wont be this exaggerated but aero forks on slimmer frame tubes can work too http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=112525 Will certainly check out alibaba though.
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• #12
Vince did a side by side comparison of real versus fake Fundas on here somewhere.
Basically says they're pretty bargainous and not too much in it between real and fake.
I think it looks good!
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• #13
Vince did a side by side comparison of real versus fake Fundas on here somewhere.
Just thought I'd post it for my own record: http://www.lfgss.com/post3447688-2895.html
Fake Fundas ordered and wheels sprayed black today. The plans was always to get some nice wheels, but riding these in the meantime I'm not going to feel such a clown.
Just roughed the rims with a scotch pad then applied a few coats whilst the sun was out. -
• #14
Strong work - £70 for a set of 380g forks is pretty good to me
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• #15
is anybody else's skin getting incredibly irritaded by a scotch pad, on a related note?
horrible. -
• #16
After today, yes.
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• #17
Are you getting the frame clearcoated?
Tempted to get one of those EC90s for my CAAD7. Who could re-create the Seaco replica paint for me?
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• #18
Initially I'll leave it raw but wipe it down with WD40 now and then, if it gets any corrosion will probably get a clear powdercoat.
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• #19
I just gave my sMASH a quick once over with chromosol every 5-6 weeks, kept it shiny enough, and that was polished... Yours having the matte blasted finish should pretty much look after itself, I only polished mine to stop it looking matte... On the corrosion front, Nasty has ridden a naked stripped 'dale for years and still going strong..
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• #20
Both looking good there. I don't know if there's a practical reasoning behind it, but always thought an alu frame that had been blasted would hold up better to corrosion than if I just stripped the paint off. I know it's not a rump steak, but in my mind it's like sealing the metal's outest layer.
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• #21
I would've thought the opposite, that the "perforated" (for lack of better word) surface would encourage moisture to be retained and lead to accelerated corrosion.... Certainly a tougher finish though in terms of aesthetics, the un-coated polish finish scratched and marked really easily.
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• #22
Got the frame back today, the chemical strip and light sand blast cost £60.
Had a tatty Ritchey WCS 4Axis stem in my parts bin and thought I'd get that done too, might see how matching frame and stem look like those custom frame jobbies.http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/7531/dscn2257n.jpg
http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/5117/dscn2258t.jpg http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/7146/dscn2259n.jpg
http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/6370/dscn2262bx.jpg
Marginally lighter
http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/7889/dscn2261ae.jpg
http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/733/dscn2278ld.jpg
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• #23
That matching stem looks mint.
Painting the forks, leaving or replacing?
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• #24
Going for some 3T Funda copies, should beef up the look a little. Yeah the stem came out great, a slightly better finish than the frame which was surprising, just wish it was a little longer.
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• #25
Like
Wanted a fixed/ss bike which is enjoyable to ride and also can be used as a bit of a town run around.
Reluctant to say it's for training as I know it'll end up being a slight weenie build, obviously.
Started like this
Pleasantly surprised how light the frame was considering all the horrible parts it had fitted. The plan is to:
/Strip paint
/Mavic open pro CD's
/Sram opnomnomnoms
/Possibly Thomson finishing kit
/obligatory fsa compact bars
It's now at the blasters for chemical stripping then a gentle sand blast to uniform the surface. Going for that alu black contrast which looks nice and clean. A bit like:
Would obviously love an enve/edge fork but thinking an chunky Apha Q would compliment the wide tubes whilst saving weight.