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• #578
I've got HY:RD and (with two caveats) they are fantastic. One finger breaking, auto pad adjustment, fantastic heat dissipation, endos galore, massive skidz.. huge fanboi.
BUT
As stated time and time again the stock pads are horrible. and the instructions are awful, truly awful... I was probably being a Muppet but it took me ages to realise and find that there was a 2.5mm adjustment screw round-the-back, up-side-down, in-side-out, that, once adjusted effectively, bought these brakes to life... Oh the goodness!
They aint cheap but they are a hella lot cheap than a full hydraulic set up and I really don't think you can go wrong with them.
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• #579
Bike developed a fantastic new emergency stopping feature last night.
The bolt holding the rack to the fork crown came out and the fully loaded rack pivoted around the axle going under the front wheel.Not so fun.
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• #580
You ok Spotter?
Also, what pads are people putting into their HY/RD's when replacing/upgrading?
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• #581
sounds painful...you ok?
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• #582
oof. you ok? came out or snapped?
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• #583
Shimano resin.
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• #584
Are HY:RDs significantly better than Spyres then?
I'm starting backwards on my Croix build. Bought some hubs. Then the rest of the wheels will be purchased, frame will come when I've sold some more bits.
I've even made a lovely spreadsheet to show how, in theory, I should be able to afford to go 'luxury'. I'd like a new gruppo but at the moment I'm looking at using either the 6600 shifters I have or some 7900 bar ends, plus either CX50 or 6700 cranks depending on what gearing I go for.
Main question before possibly sticking the frame on the plastic tonight is: as someone who rides 56x56 bikes normally, should I go down to 54 for the possibility of more saddle/bar drop, or 56? I'm going towards 54 as it'll lend itself to flexibility, but I also don't want a huge stack to be comfortable.
As you can see in the image below, my sales are not going that well. Please buy my stuff.
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• #585
I had a CdF 56 and it was too big... while normally 56 is a good size for me. I then bought a Genesis Fugio 54 and it's perfect. Just shy of 5'10" and normal body proportions (the David statue in Florence was inspired on my figure, really). On any CX bike, I would go one size down
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• #586
I'm 6ft with a 32" inside leg so should really ride slightly larger road frames...
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• #587
I am just shy of 6ft with a longer inside leg. There is not much difference between the 56-58-60 (unless they changed the geo) - as the seat tube angle and head angles change which keeps the reach within 10mm (again from memory). So after all that. I reckon you are better off with a 58 but if really want a 56 tt then stick with it and don't go down to a 54.
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• #588
I think stand over height would be too much on the 58... If I am using it in any way 'off road' then even the 56 is pushing it, with a stand over about the same as my road bike. Is there not a rule of going a size smaller for CX bikes?
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• #589
You are right - the stack does go up and I didnt consider that one. I was more worried about reach.
I guess it also depends on how much bar drop you like. I have a very smaller drop and therefore need a higher ht. If you dont, then you can potentially size down.
Spotter, apologies seem to have derailed your thread a bit
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• #590
The new Genesis Croix de Fer have a lower bottom bracket than the old one, so it's now closer to a road bike than CX.
It also have a taller headtube than the old model, which will fit @spotter a lots better.
(by the way, the headtube length look unchanged compared to the 2014, it's the fork that's a lots longer than the original).
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• #591
What are we saying then, a 56 will be alright if I normally ride 56, or that I should go for a 54 which will allow for more of a saddle/bar drop if I want to go 'dead fast'?
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• #592
The 54cm is 5mm shorter than the 56cm*, It also have a similar stack as a typical 56cm classic geo bicycle, so you get a choice of two sizing, sit up and beg, or low and, well, beg.
*lots of handlebar come in various reach, says 65mm reach (Pro Vibe Compact), 75mm (Salsa Cowbell), 88mm (Zipp SL-88).
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• #593
More so than with the 56, which will just be a sit up and beg basically?
Ehhhh, this is hard. I've emailed Genesis to ask their advice.
Thanks (again) Ed. I'm leaning towards 54 for flexibility. I can always make the reach longer and drop bigger with a 54. I can't make a 56 any smaller if I find it too upright. But then maybe upright is what this bike should be.
Unfortunately, I have no real way of test riding both of them.
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• #594
On a better note though, I've just sold a frame so CL25 (32 + 32) are ordered.
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• #595
Have fucked one of my knees at the time... Then rode another 250km which didn't help in the slightest. So it's really fucked now and I've still got 35km to go.
Bolt worked loose I think, I didn't notice because of the rough Road.
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• #596
Comparing the stack and reach to the current bike you're riding is a good way of finding out.
54cm sound like a good size to go for, you probably won't even need to change the stem length.
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• #597
Shit, can you not just give it a rest for a while at least? I suppose getting it out of the way makes sense at this point. Take care man, and heal fast.
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• #598
If in doubt go for the 54. Leave a bit of steerer until you're dialed for fit, then leave a little above the stem just in case... everyone is happy.
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• #599
Thanks man, I just 'need' the 35km to finish the festive 500, so I'll just do it on a different bike today and take it slowly.
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• #600
54 ordered...
No idea why they're so cheap from here:
Emailed them to check it was the 2015 model as shown, uncut steerer etc. and it's all good.
Need to decide if I can stretch to HY RD or not.
After using hydraulic, it feel like there's quite a lots of effort just to gradually slow down on old fashion dual pivot rims brakes.
It's like, applied a little, but barely enough to scrub speed off.
I reckon the UCI made the right decision not to introduced disc to the peleton yet, the vast difference would cause huge chaos, no matter how much experiences they got.