Threaded Headset / Problems with 1" Headsets

sounds like thread on fork is damaged. Either needs to be re-died (like re-tapping but the other way round) or new forks.

Did they get any paint on the steerer? Might just need threads chased.

Hmmm, quite rare to shag the steerer as it's usually harder material- but not impossible- are you using a steel headset? Sounds shagged, tho'. Hopefully it's the headset/locknut as you will find another one cheapish or free if you are friends with your LBS. If it's the steerer, not such good news- gonna be more expensive, prolly....

sounds like thread on fork is damaged. Either needs to be re-died (like re-tapping but the other way round) or new forks.

This is what i suspect

And no paint on them they seemed to get paint everywhere else though had to have the bottom bracket re-tapped etc but forks seem fine

and yeh it is a steel headset so it seems possible that it is a steerer issue

thanks for info anyway

I assume the top race went on OK before the lock nut? probably the locknut threads if it did.
Have a close look at the threads on both the steerer and the locknut.
It is possible to see if the threads are worn:- the top of each thread should be sharp, if flat they are worn.
A worn lock nut is easy, get a new one, worn steerer is a problem, because it is very difficult to repair the threads.
What you can do though is to use loctite on the top race to hold it in place, and then you won't need the lock nut. I did this as a short term bodge on a bike about 5 years ago, and it still works fine!

Its a long shot but as its the top of the steerer tube it may be possible to build up the damaged threaded area with some mig weld then grind back the weld material to enable the thread to be re-cut.
If you were to go down this route then the threading die would need to be screwed onto the forks upside down before any weld was put on. That way the die will cut in the right direction and the existing threads would continue into the new ones. Good Luck

So sorted my last issue at the LBS

Just putting headset back together after a respray and there i'snt enough thread left to get the lock nut on and i cant work out why....? It goes on without the lockring but not with it?!! :D

Should've used the old thread for ref.

What are you saying? The top bit won't fit? Is it a new headset? Did you check stack height with the previous one?
If its the same then its been put on wrong. Bearings right way round?

No it is the same headset it had on when i got it, before it got painted witch is why it dont understand why it doesn't fit. and yeh bearings are the right way round.

is this the same one in your other thread? And the LBS has sorted it? and now it doesn't fit?
What did they do?

Yeh same one they just used a bit of 'persuasion' to get the nut and top race moving. got the thing home and had this issue arrrrhhhhhhh!!!!

Success!!!!! I am a fool I had the cups in the wrong way round.

Thanks all :D

Success!!!!! I am a fool

That you are.

I am rebuilding my fixie, now I'm looking for a 1" threaded headset wich is affordable, for about 15 - 20 pounds. Does someone of you know a nice threaded headset for this price? I prefer a new one, a secondhand would bring some shippingcost problems because it has to be shipped to the Netherlands.

tange

+1 for Tange headsets. Don't forget to check your stack height.

+1 for Tange headsets. Don't forget to check your stack height.

+2 for Tange. Also don't forget to check whether you have a JIS or ISO crown race.

• for dia compe.
  

These are great - Caged upper cone / Needle bearing lower cone.

http://www.dotbike.com/p/6573

I have a 531 track frame that I am building up. No headset is fitted so I am looking at different types. Are all 1" threaded headsets compatible with my frame/forks? Do the cups come in different diameters?

If it's a 1" stearer tube then they should fit ok.

Cups will be fine.It's stack height and thread count you'll need to read up on to make sure you make a good purchase.

Three different standards: ISO, Italian and JIS.

Although Italian threads are cut at a slightly different angle, in practice they are all interchangeable.

As WJP says, you will need to check the stack height.

You will also need to check the crown race, as these are different.

Have at look at this.

Who is the frame made by? What BB does it take? This might give you a clue as to which HS you need.

It is an ottadini track frame. 68 English thread bb. I will measure the stack hight

There's a little info on Ottadini in this thread.

Despite the Italian sounding name, it seems they were built in Sunderland, so you should have an ISO HS.