Threaded Headset / Problems with 1" Headsets

was trying to fix the forks to the frame + It doesnt want to go all the way like i think it should.

Don't think i got the wrong bearings cos i went to a bike shop and asked for them -

theres a space at the top too and i can see the ball bearings

Is there a bit missing ?
Do i just need to get a bigger spanner and really screw it on ?

No, don't force it, it looks wrong... take it apart and start again, is your fork threaded enough for the frame? The race on the fork looks odd too, as does the top and bottom part, what's the make? Is the stack in the correct order?

Yeah theres enough thread on the fork. It a carlton circuit '78.. As for the stack I got the fork with race, the bottom bit of the headset then the top bit of the headset then that big threaded one on top.
Is there meant to be any space to see the bearings at all? because when I put an original bearing in there is still a gap.

Shouldn't be any spaces, stack sounds ok but looks odd... from bottom to top:

Fork race (wedged on the fork),
Lower bearings,
Lower steerer tube cup (wedged in the frame),
Upper steerer tube cup (wedged in the frame),
Upper bearings,
Lower/larger nut (loose one tightened up with minimal force),
Upper/smaller top nut (tightened onto the lower nut to stop things loosening).

Are the bearings original/the correct size/amount? Which part of the headset is jarring? Does the thread on the fork look damaged/dirty at all?

I have all the parts.

the bearings aren't otiginal theyre new. they look slightly bigger than the original ones.
The thread on the fork is fine.
how many bearings should i be using on each end?

Can't see the top lock nut in the picture

i have it. but not in the pic.

was thinking maybe i just need smaller bearings ? would this make a difference ?

I think the general standard is 5/16", but you should be able to tell by assembling with the bearings without the fork. Also you should use red grease, not white.

+1 Lithium grease no good for headsets

has anyone got the tools and expertise to help me fit a 1-inch threaded headset to an old beater that i'm doing up? i'm poor at the moment but i'm happy to swap some beer/ or parts (loads of old wheels and ladies frames hanging around that i'll donate)?

bike store said £24 for the job - and i have to get up at 8am. that ain't for me

block of wood and a hammer, tap, tap, wallop!

http://www.londonfgss.com/search.php?searchid=2456673

To install the cups, stick them in the freezer for 30 mins then grease and hammer (i hammer them between two argos catalogues to protect everything)

Crown race needs to be cooked @ 200c for 20 odd mins then grease the race and carefully hammer on.

The rest is easy.

Press the headset cups in place using a long bolt and two large washers (as you tighten the nut on the bolt the cups will be pressed into the frame)

To fit the crown race, i drilled a 1" hole in a block of mdf so it would slide along the steerer and used it to hit the race into place

The London Bicycle Repair shop just off The Cut near Waterloo charge a tenner.

The London Bicycle Repair shop just off The Cut near Waterloo charge a tenner.

great - just next to my work. £10 is far more reasonable.

last time i tired to do it myself using make-shift tools i ended up f.ing a headset and not fitting it. this time i wanted to learn from someone how to do a good job. heating bike parts at 200c is really not an option for me becuase i'm relatively accident prone...

Hey,

so i just replaced my stem and noticed that the head set wont screw back together. I'm pretty sure the first 2 turns have been threaded....not sure how as it came off totally fine.

So, should i keep on and power through or would it make things worse? Any suggestions?

Why did you undo the headset to replace the stem anyway?

new bike - took it apart to check it, clean it n' all that.

What sort of headset is it? Post a pic.

It's a stronglight A9.

Hi Hauska,
A9 is a good headset in the alloy version and will last a long time, but you have to be careful with any alloy thread... However they are still very cheap from either Spa Cycles or possibly Ribble.
Re-threading (if needed) will require a massive tap which will be more expensive than a new A9, which last time I looked was only £25.
Given that the thread is not too far gone you may be able to clear the threads with a piece of fine hacksaw blade (about 24tpi) by running it round the inside edge - be gentle!
If you have taken the rest of the headset off and fork out you'll find it easier to restart the top nut of the headset on the bare fork thread before re-assembly, check the fork thread too for damage just in case. Finding bike shop with a fork threading/clearing die may be easier than one with a tap, so give it a go as above first. By the way; dies=outside & taps=inside : )
Good luck,
DS
http://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b2s115p0

So was putting my headset back together after a respray...

threading the locknut on to the fork(with a big spanner) and it threads on most of the way but then it wont tighten any further it just keeps spinning but doesn't actually get any tighter. Have I screwed the fork/Locknut?
Gonna take it to the LBS tomorrow just looking 4 advice here though first :D

I take it, its a threaded steerer. Sounds like there's a bit of dodgy thread. If there's enough space you may be able to use a washer to use thread higher up the stearer.

Yeh threaded steerer. Dont think the washer will work. 1. because i cant get the top race on either and 2. because i dont think the steerer is long enough :(