Light(ish)weight Pompetamine

Is that a custom build? Presume you're talking about the Hope Pro 2 Evo - the single speed one?

Yes and yes.

Looks like Stan's rims are tubeless only

That's not what I've read, but do a bit of research and find out how people have got on with tubes in them. If you still don't think they will work for you, Velocity A23 will do, about 80g extra for a pair but also £22 less

Wheel wise you could build the Hope ones cheaper if you used Halo Aerowarrior rims. They're about half the price of the Stan's rims but a fair bit heavier on paper. I've been really happy with mine though and hey, strong, light, cheap, pick two.

As for chainset have you thought about something with a 110 BCD for more options on ring size? I use these with a 46:17 road gear and 36:17 off road gear although I'm still playing about with both. They were only bought as a temporary measure but I'm finding it hard to justify replacing them. They're rebranded Suginos so they're half decent. No good if you want black though and the hidden bolt is a bit of a faf.

I started with the chain tester has recommended but I found rust proof coated chains to be a bit unnecessary if you use your bike and service the chain regularly. I'm using this coupled with this to make removing the chain that much easier for servicing. It's worth noting, you can only use the connex link with an 8spd 3/32 chain and not a single speed 3/32 chain. Apparently they are slightly different.

They're tubeless ready, not tubeless only. If you're looking at saving weight (where it matters most) on a budget, I would definitely be looking at a tubeless setup.

Pacenti CL 25 rims come to a similar price and (claimed) weight but with a wider profile, which would be beneficial if you're running wider tyres.

If you're looking to go cheaper and lighter still, you could look at some eBay hubs. These would work out around £90 cheaper and (claimed) 50g lighter than the hope hubs Tester posted. However, the hope build is more likely to be a wheels-for-life setup, whereas these would simply be a wheelset to use until you've got more money to replace them if (when) they fall apart. I'm sure they'd be more than up to the required use anyway.

Something like this would save around £25 and a little bit of weight over your Ritchie stem depending on length (mine is 90 or 100mm and came in at around 115g IIRC)

It's the little things like this that add up to a decent cost/weight saving, but at the end of the day, you've got to ask yourself how long you expect these parts to last and stretch/shrink your budget/expectations accordingly.

Iower, thanks for your input - extremely helpful.

I'm certainly looking at this as a long-lasting bike, and kind of hoped my spec was pushing in that direction. I'm trying to go for quality where I can - within reason - and am stretching the budget to make sure I get something light-weight, but also built with decent parts. Last I checked, the weight was just under 8.5kg, albeit without cables, BB or sprocket. Finished bike will hopefully be below 9.5, but will have cost over £1k, which is more than I'd planned.

Wheel suggestions are extremely helpful. I haven't used tubs since I ran them on my road bike as a teenager (MANY years ago) when they were nothing but a pain. I realise going tubeless may save a couple of hundred grams, but I think I'd still rather use tubes unless there are other compelling arguments for going tubeless. I hadn't realized notubes were tube or clincher compatible - I'll give them a re-look.

I'll also check your stem - agreed, lots of 20g savings make a difference.

Thanks again

Jules

Spreadsheet time!

Just to clarify, the rims are tubeless ready, not tubular. You'd still use clincher tyres. Benefits other than weight include potentially better rolling resistance and ride quality, and the ability to run lower pressures for more grip off-road with less chance of punctures as there's no tube to pinch. Self-sealing properties for small punctures is a bonus aswell.

Just to clarify, the rims are tubeless ready, not tubular. You'd still use clincher tyres. Benefits other than weight include potentially better rolling resistance and ride quality, and the ability to run lower pressures for more grip off-road with less chance of punctures as there's no tube to pinch. Self-sealing properties for small punctures is a bonus aswell.

iower - thanks, all clear. My tyre tech' knowledge is about 30 years out of date!

Yes and yes.

That's not what I've read, but do a bit of research and find out how people have got on with tubes in them. If you still don't think they will work for you, Velocity A23 will do, about 80g extra for a pair but also £22 less

I think you were right first time, I just got the wrong end of the stick. Will look into the Iron Cross rims some more. Do you happen to know which of the Hope hubs are disc compatible? Their website isn't helping me a great deal ...

Wheel wise you could build the Hope ones cheaper if you used Halo Aerowarrior rims. They're about half the price of the Stan's rims but a fair bit heavier on paper. I've been really happy with mine though and hey, strong, light, cheap, pick two.

As for chainset have you thought about something with a 110 BCD for more options on ring size? I use these with a 46:17 road gear and 36:17 off road gear although I'm still playing about with both. They were only bought as a temporary measure but I'm finding it hard to justify replacing them. They're rebranded Suginos so they're half decent. No good if you want black though and the hidden bolt is a bit of a faf.

I started with the chain tester has recommended but I found rust proof coated chains to be a bit unnecessary if you use your bike and service the chain regularly. I'm using this coupled with this to make removing the chain that much easier for servicing. It's worth noting, you can only use the connex link with an 8spd 3/32 chain and not a single speed 3/32 chain. Apparently they are slightly different.

Point taken on chains and cranks. My fallback crankset is currently the cheaper Miche Xpress (Primato may be beyond me) but I'll check those out. 110BCD may make sense, although I don't intend to take this off-road other than when I get lost.

I've snapped three Dura Ace chains in the last 4 years, and I've no idea why. I lube like a man posessed, always wash and dry after rides, service chains fairly regularly etc. I've just started buying cheaper chains and lube'ing even more and have now gone a year without a breakage, but it's a shitty mechanical to get when you're 30 miles from home and don't have a chain tool with you.

Thanks for all the help.

Jules

PS. Lovely bike BTW!

I am using stans crest wheelset but running them with tubes. they work fine - minor caveat is it can be a little difficult to pop the tyre out of the rim when fixing a puncture, but this is not impossible.

I am using stans crest wheelset but running them with tubes. they work fine - minor caveat is it can be a little difficult to pop the tyre out of the rim when fixing a puncture, but this is not impossible.

Thanks James. Looks like the Crests have a slightly wider/shallower profile but are otherwise similar. Good to hear they take clinchers ok. I wonder why they're tough to pop the tyres out of. I think some rim/tyre combos just don't like each other.

the rim forms a tighter seal with the tyre for when it is being used tubeless

It's because they are designed to run 'normal' mtb tyres tubeless; clinchers that weren't specifically designed to be run tubeless. The rim has to be designed to lock the tyre bead in place.

the rim forms a tighter seal with the tyre for when it is being used tubeless

It's because they are designed to run 'normal' mtb tyres tubeless; clinchers that weren't specifically designed to be run tubeless. The rim has to be designed to lock the tyre bead in place.

Understood. Thanks.

Avid brakes can work ok but are annoying to work with and can be a bit fiddly to set up, you need a specific kit to bleed then which can be expensive. Shimano are a lot easier and use fluid that is less similar to alien blood.

Thanks Snottyotter. I have SLX's on my MTB which have been great, but the Avid's seemed like better value - judged purely on weight/cost. Looks like Deore XT's are on sale at CRC so I'll most likely go that route.

Thanks again

I'd probably avoid them unless they are a real bargain, although I've had juicy 3s and 5s that were fine, they can be a pain in the arse.

Never heard anything good about avid hydros :(

You can get a complete set of deore xts on Rose Bikes for £125ish last time I checked. Bit cheaper than CRC.

Thanks chaps. Avids are off the menu. Derore XT's or SLX depending on what deals are available.

I started with the chain tester has recommended but I found rust proof coated chains to be a bit unnecessary if you use your bike and service the chain regularly. I'm using this

Yes, galvanised chain is probably more corrosion protection than you need if you're not riding on salted roads, but the Wippermann is also cheap.

FWIW, I've just put this KMC S10 (aka Z1X-Inox) on my MTB, wouldn't have paid £20 for it but for £8.99 it's a bargain. The weight weenie option would be a 9-speed chain, pretty much all 3/32" single speed rings and sprockets will happily work with 9-speed chain and it's a little lighter than 8-speed. I wouldn't, but I'm not weight obsessed about any of my singlespeed bikes.

Yes, galvanised chain is probably more corrosion protection than you need if you're not riding on salted roads, but the Wippermann is also cheap.

FWIW, I've just put this KMC S10 (aka Z1X-Inox) on my MTB, wouldn't have paid £20 for it but for £8.99 it's a bargain. The weight weenie option would be a 9-speed chain, pretty much all 3/32" single speed rings and sprockets will happily work with 9-speed chain and it's a little lighter than 8-speed. I wouldn't, but I'm not weight obsessed about any of my singlespeed bikes.

Looks like there's no more than about 50g in it, so I'll defer to whatever the conventional wisdon on reliability is. Rather a sturdy chain, than a light one that might break - not that I'm paranoid or anything.

Sturdiest 3/32" chain is the Wippermann 7R8, but it's 91g heavier than a 7Z1, which in turn is 65g heavier than a 9S1 hollow pin 9-speed dérailleur chain (manufacturer's weights, 110 links). 9/10 speed dérailleur chain is pretty reliable even on MTBs and CX bikes which get shifted under load in worse conditions than you're likely to tackle on your bike.

Strong: 7R8
Light: 9S1
Cheap: 7Z1

This time around, pick just one.

You sponsored by Wippermann tester? :) 808 would be my choice from their range. Comes with the connex link which I've found to help increase the life span of my chains in that it makes removal a piece of piss and therefore leads to me cleaning and relubricating them more frequently.

Should also mention that the quick link that comes with the 7Z1 is not designed to be used to rejoin the chain multiple times. Tbh I wouldn't even use it once. Don't know about the others.

You sponsored by Wippermann tester?

No, I just like their products for value. Particularly the Mavic branded 10S8s I bought for £10 each :-)

Also, the 1Z1 and 1R8 are the only bushed chains easily available without paying hipster tax on an NJS chain.

Should also mention that the quick link that comes with the 7Z1 is not designed to be used to rejoin the chain multiple times. Tbh I wouldn't even use it once. Don't know about the others.

Good point well made, I'd forgotten that the 7-speed comes with a snap link, I only have one, whereas I have numerous 1Z1 ⅛" versions which come with a spring clip master link. The 7R8 comes with a spring clip, as does the KMC S10 on sale at On-One

The spring clips are safe enough, unlike the snap links but they're still a bit of a faf. Connex links are the way forward!!!!! 808 all the way. Well worth a couple of quid extra.

I think the snap links are safe, they're just no re-usable.

Word of warning if you don't like them; they tend to turn up on cheap chains aimed at the OE market, including some low-end KMCs