Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

Totally, i just didn't realise it would be so noticeable, and that training to heart rate is almost pointless....

I am also finding it interesting to see how much of the time I am pedalling at 95rpm but almost coasting. It is becoming apparent that 11-32 has huge jumps, and I can jump from recovery power to way over ftp in two gear changes.

It looks like there is a steep learning curve which may help me ride more evenly.

Its quite clear that previous 'quick' commutes must see me all out on hills etc, but crawling along in recovery mode in other sections...... I've never really paid attention to anything but time.

I recently rode a 15km undulating strava section With a friend on my Wheel, so she could set a PB. I rode it relatively calmly. Making sure I didnt push too many watts up the hills. My own PB was set during an all out leg busting effort.

I was totally shocked when I saw I'd beaten my PB.

Worth noting that pulling back a mere 5w from Your limit feels 20w easier. So percieved effort is a rubbish measure. But I was still shocked.

percieved effort is a rubbish measure

so much this. it's amazing to see how power needs to jump to get you up to speed but then maintaining speed requires mush less effort - or as i am now discovering i can keep up the effort level and and go up another gear whilst maintaining similar cadence

also my perceived effort is from how hard my legs push. so dropping down a gear and spinning faster i can produce more power for much less perceived effort.

Im the opposite. I find high cadence feels stressful. Whereas low cadence / high torque pedaling feels Nice.

The powermeter helps remove the urge to shift up each time I feel less force under my feet.

There's an aero benefit to having a rider on your wheel also I believe.

It's tiny though.

The time difference wasnt huge. But definitely more Down to pacing.

Best-bike-split will tell you to push a little harder on the Climbs. Because fighting gravity is a more linear Battle than the exponential one fighting air resistance. But going into the red on the Climbs adds very little speed compared to the cost when you're cooked on the flats.

"a little harder"

It's not that it's because you spend proportionally more time on climbs. Same as increasing pace a little into a headwind. Because you'll spend more time into that headwind so the benefit of adding 5% is greater than evenly powering and then getting a faster tailwind section.

But, 5%.

5%

There is no "into the red" if you are pacing anything correctly. You're not racing a kilo.

I Garmin Live/Strava is pretty handy for pacing myself towards PBs.

Any idea if you can use it to see your power output from a PB effort during a current effort (if you have a power meter obviously)?

I don't know if you have seen this on KickStarter.
Team ZWatt power meter.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/teamzwatt/team-zwatt-bike-power-meter?ref=tag

I'm losing the will to live with my power meter (garmin vector) they seem to be working fine on the turbo but not in the real world, last nights TT was apparently 80w down on my best for the course earlier in the year, at a loss as to what is going on...?

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Calibration (zero off.). Angles.

I like TP and I use the fitness/TSS function to keep track of my training blocks but there is a strong temptation to do junk training just to boost TSS/fitness data. 90minutes high quality intervals that leaves you drained for days rates the same as a bit longer Z2.

And if you're drained for days you're not working at the same effort so who's to say your "junk" miles aren't doing the same thing overall as a hard session followed by easy days.

mindblown.gif

My commute with power (just purchased a quarq)this morning at zone 3 left me arriving at work feeling fresh at only 5 and half minutes slower than my quickest commute time, which is an absolute smash-fest that leaves me feeling shite

You could also have heaps of aerobic power from your higher Z2/3 mileage and correspondingly little anaerobic power on top of that base.

3.5% lower CdA on average

@Sainsburys_Ed Ditch the Garmins?

wish I had the cash to do that to be honest, second hand sale i'd probably get £400 ish, new PM is at least £650 for a proper one, and then id have to add in chainrings and put up with worse shifting unless I go for the quark elsa RS which i could use shimano DA rings on at £1k, so would cost between 4-600...

one for bonus time in January...

For now I'm racing on HR, not exactly ideal...

If you're not using them and just using HR for now, you might as well sell now before they depreciate further, no?

Edit - Ah, forgot they seem to work fine on the turbo.

Obvious question is obvious, but I assume you are rigorous with your install/calibration procedure?

I sometimes get stupid numbers too, but more often than not it's after a recent bike change, and the risk is increased if I'm rushing. Also my screwy numbers are often associated with very lopsided l/r balance which I usually interpret as a sign of incorrect installation.

I've got two Powertap wheels that are going to be dead pretty soon (rims are proper concave). I was going to take one back to Oz so I could have power while riding there but not sure about the other one since I still have a G3 Archetype and 404 PT. Maybe you could use a PT wheel? I do still have my 808+PT+wheelcovers that is probably pointless hanging onto but it's won me the most stuff so I'm a bit wary of getting rid. Cheaper than buying a P2M and better than Vectors.

Would a (new) compact rival P2M classic be of any use to you?

Friends don't let friends buy Vectors.

Will have a factory-repaired Campagnolo 4-arm SRM for sale soon.

tell me more.