Power Meters / Powermeters (SRM, Powertap, Quarq, Ergomo, Vector, Stages, power2max, P2M, 4iii, InPower, Cinch)

The track conversion of the Pro- likely to be a bitch to lace to an 88mm rim?

Deeper rim will help the spoke bracing angle, but might need fewer crossings to avoid going past the tangential point. If in doubt, do the maths (or a drawing) to see what angles the spokes are at.

think they are still asymmetrical but obviously not as extreme as the road hub.

Pro: Flange diameter 70mm, hub to centre 21.5mm DS 28mm NDS
G3: Flange diameter 57mm, hub to centre 17.4mm DS 38mm NDS

Lots of flange in this thread. Would read again.

The best bet is to chuck the flange figures into Freespoke, and get a clear picture of the effect of the flanges of the various models.

I'd already written off doing a triplet. The flanges look all wrong for that.

Flange.

http://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/fullcalc

**------------------------------Left --------- **Right
Spoke length -----------254.6mm --252.4mm
Bracing angle ----------8.6°-----------4°
Tension distribution --47% ---------100%

Triplet lacing would even out the tension distribution lovely. You'd be approaching even tension for both sides. But the sum bracing angle would be rubbish. Which is why used a Tune Mag for my triplet lacing.

Having done the calcs for the Pro and the G3, I'm tending towards the Pro as having better tension distribution.

Very tempted to get a 32 hole G3, and laced it with 16 3x spokes drive side, and 8 1x spokes non-drive side. To a 24 hole rim.

I'm probably voiding the warranty of a massively expensive hub though.

Bad idea. Powertaps actually transmit power through the NDS - the load is applied by the rider on the drive side (obviously), the middle of the hub does the clever load-cell doodahing, and the drive is transmitted through to the now-inappropriately-named NDS side of the hub.

1x or even radial on the DS is OK, 2x is the minimum on the NDS.

Bad idea. Powertaps actually transmit power through the NDS - the load is applied by the rider on the drive side (obviously), the middle of the hub does the clever load-cell doodahing, and the drive is transmitted through to the now-inappropriately-named NDS side of the hub.

1x or even radial on the DS is OK, 2x is the minimum on the NDS.

Hmmmmm. Knew I needed to look into this. Cheers.

Part of my thinking was being more flexible with regard to with the hub drilling I'd need. Which would put in better chance of snatching a bargin. I'll stick to 24 hole hub.

That is if my mate wants my Tune hubs.

Otherwise I'll be looking to save for a P2M as planned. If I can stop breaking stuff for a few weeks.

Pro: Flange diameter 70mm, hub to centre 21.5mm DS 28mm NDS
G3: Flange diameter 57mm, hub to centre 17.4mm DS 38mm NDS

Those were supposed to be the track hub specs, and in the case of the Pro I think the figures are correct. But not for the G3, unless by some mysterious coincidence the hub-to-centre measurements are the same on the road and track hubs. Which seems very, very unlikely.

Am I the only person who didn't know that Vector requires cranks of certain dimensions to work?

For a bike to be compatible with Vector, two critical areas need to be measured: (1) the crank and (2) the clearance between the crank and chain.
The cranks will need to be the proper thickness and height. Vector can work on cranks that are up to 15mm thick and 38mm in height.

This rules out the Lightening / S-Works crank, apparently.

Power2Max now has a Hollowgram and an S-Works model.

Power2Max now has a Hollowgram and an S-Works model.

Source? they don't appear to have updated the website

Being announced at Eurobike- the new "S" model.

yep, probably should have gone and caught up on wattage before posting the question. SISL2 with a P2M is very very tempting. That or the vector...

Well I talked my mate into getting 40mm rims. So I wont be off loading stuff onto him in the the attempt to buy an ANt+ power meter. Back to the drawing board.

Power2Max now has a Hollowgram and an S-Works model.

Is that for the Specialised S-Works crankset that's based on the Lightning? Could be tempted - if I can find a way to make them fit a BSA threaded BB.

Is that for the Specialised S-Works crankset that's based on the Lightning? Could be tempted - if I can find a way to make them fit a BSA threaded BB.

Ah I've pondered this. Someone actually machined an extra bit of axle to extend the hith joint. Then used the outboard BSA30 rotor BB.

But on an MTB. On a Road bike I think the resulting chainline would be horrible. You could get away with it on a crosser with 1*10 too I reckon.

If you do want to go further I'd be up for it - I have a pair that I'd quite like to fit to my MTB...

Saddleback are distributing Stages in the UK

Powercal users - did you just fit the strap and it register with your Garmin or other ANT+ device? Or is their some secret trick that I've missed?

Go into settings, set power meter to "on", then ask the Garmin to scan- it should pick it up pretty much at once.

It'll register it as if it is a totally separate device- I use the Powercal HR strap when I'm on a bike with an SRM, using the profile in the Garmin which is not associated with the Powercal as a powermeter.

You'll need to be wearing the strap mind- otherwise it'll not be transmitting anything for the Garmin to find.

Thanks Neil. That seems to have worked.

Bonza, let me know how you get on- mine is pretty good at estimating average wattage (reads a bit low, but that's ok as I know it does it) but tends to spike a lot.

As an example, on Sunday rides out with Brixton I'll see maximum power of around 1,300 watts from the SRM, which I trust, whereas with the Powercal on my commuter I'll see a maximum power of ~1,800 watts, which I suspect is bullshit.

Theres a delay too. As you'd expect.

Yesterday, 42 miles, SRM average power 164 watts, Powercal 171 watts.
Today, 40 miles, SRM 140 watts, Powercal 164 watts.

Maximum power is way out- SRM 843 vs Powercal 1,607 for today.