East Anglian Tourer ( Black Shuck )

Got the guards today. SKS in black. Fiddled around for ages to get the front one on. Haven't got the rear one on yet. Front needs a little adjusting as it rubs on the v-brake. Pics up when both guards are on. Here is the parts list;

• Planet X Kaffenback frame and forks
  
• FSA Orbit 2 headset
  
• Shimano UN54 BB
  
• Shimano cranks
  
• Gebhardt 40T single chainring
  
• Rear Rigida Sputnik rim laced to a Shimano deore hub
  
• Front Mavic rim laced to a hub i forget the name of with QR skewer
  
• Halo QR skewer for the rear
  
• Velosolo spacers and 16T Andel sprocket with a Token lockring
  
• Token carbon headset spacers
  
• Scott mtb stem and bars
  
• SNG brake levers
  
• Gusset tight bastard grips
  
• Tioga powerstud bar ends
  
• System Ex 27.2mm seatpost
  
• Thompson 29.8mm seatpost clamp
  
• Selle san marco saddle
  
• Genetic mini-v brakes
  
• Tortec rear rack
  
• SKS Mudguards
  
• Schwalbe marathon plus tyres
  
• System Ex pedals with clips and leather straps
  
  

I think that's it.
Came in at over £600 for the lot, not including stem,bars,brake levers and saddle. They are from other bikes. They are also the parts most likely to be replaced when money allows.

Ooops. Should be just over £700. Not bad i suppose. Wheels and frame were the most pricey bits. Tyres weren't cheap either. But i reckon this bike will last for years.

If you got a double on the front, why not put two cog in the rear? one normal and one climbing?

If you got a double on the front, why not put two cog in the rear? one normal and one climbing?

I believe the inner ring is going, once he gets some shorter chainring bolts...

It would make a good set-up as a singlespeed tourer, Rivendell sell their singlespeed/fixed bicycle with a 34/40 chainring to change the ratios;

If you're going to mess around with that sort of nonsense, buy a front mech.

Not a bad idea. But yeah, the plan is to mount the 40T chainring on the inner side and pop a bashguard on. There may be a few dirt tracks on my mini-tours. Time will tell if 40/16 is a good all round ratio for mostly flat terrain with occasional hills. I was going to pick up a few of the shimano cogs of various sizes to experiment with as they are pretty cheap.

If you're going to mess around with that sort of nonsense, buy a front mech.

Nonsense? Nonsense. Fixed/free (or free/free as I used to run) with two chainrings is excellent. What if your tour takes you across some rolling terrain (65" fixed) followed by a hilly range (40" freewheel)? You're adding no additional complication and about 100g additional weight, maintaining the simplicity of fixed/SS riding, and gaining the ability to traverse more terrain without killing your knees.

On my fixed wheel bicycle, I have to take off the wheel and flip it round to change ratios.

That 2x2 set-up is much easier, White Industries sell this chainset;

Surly also sell this polo gear;

Now imaging a 4x2 set-up, 2x fixed, and 2x freewheel.

I would totally put those two on my fixed wheel bicycle had the gearing been sensible as I can't get the WI chainring in a bigger size nor the Surly's smaller.

All good stuff. I'll bear it in mind. Want to give the Rigida/deore wheel a chance first before trying other single/fixed options. The next pics i put up will prob be on sat when i test load the bike with my selection of Army Surplus/hiking packs to see how it looks and handles.

Not having to flip the wheel to change ratios is much more convenient. Unless you absolutely need the fixed-gear ratios, I would stick with a freehub design rather than the ENO double freewheel - freehub is stronger, cheaper and you can vary the ratios to suit whatever you want.

I'm convinced there is a way of cleverly engineering a fixed sprocket and freewheel onto the same side of the same hub. Just a hub built with a custom extra-long threading, so that you can thread a freewheel on, then a fixed sprocket, then a lockring. That'd be wonderful. Shouldn't be too expensive either - a few hundreds of pounds, perhaps - machine the hub (forged would be preferable but too expensive for a single piece) and then get custom threads cut on it. Or - a forged hub with an extra-long threading welded to it, so long as you know a professional engineer/welder who is happy that it'll be strong enough.

Fecking mudguards. Got them to fit. Eventually. But not without a lot of faff. The front kept interfering with the v-brake. The rear rattles against the frame. Think ill try something else.
I did get my web-tex bergen side pouches to fit on the rack as pannier bags. They look good. Pics to follow.

V brakes interference is normal, could you not add a shim between the fork crown and mudguard to lower it more?

I think if the rear one is rattling then you might not have it fixed at enough points?

Okay. Mudguards are on and the rear attached properly. Solid as a rock. Front one has been adjusted to allow room for the v-brake to work. But it still annoys me slightly, i had to use a zip tie as well as the clamp thingy that you bend to hook under the guard to keep it in place. All fairly secure but still a little wobbly.
I have a lowrider front rack to attach now (courtesy of forum member Wardy), so once i get that on i can decide for certain if i want to try a different guard up front.
All is needed now is some warmer, drier flipping weather.

Nah! Just get out there! :)

This.

You put mudguard on and you want to take it out on drier weather.

Crazy, i know. Front one is off anyhow. I will post a pic showing how the toe overlap added to the annoyance. Went for a quick local ride with the army panniers on (empty). No interferance noticed, no noises, no worries. Maybe ill get a clip on front guard for now.

I really want to see a pic of those bergens. Are they designed with clips for cycling? Do they have a an internal frame?

The only way you can have front mudguard is to get used to it.

You won't get used to it if you reject it straight away and suffer from wet feet/dirty drivetrain.

The only way you can have front mudguard is to get used to it.

You won't get used to it if you reject it straight away and suffer from wet feet/dirty drivetrain.

I know. I'm going to look around for a slightly different full guard for the front. Others seem to have managed to get ones on, maybe their toe overlap wasnt as bad with guard on.

Have it occur to you that they may have different sized feet, shoes and cleat placement?

I really want to see a pic of those bergens. Are they designed with clips for cycling? Do they have a an internal frame?

Ill put pic up a bit later. My phone wont do it properly. They have clips top and bottom to attach to the main bergen pack or to webbing so you can wear them as a daypack. The clips fit over the top and bottom rails on the rack perfectly. Just need a bungee or two to add a bit of tension as they slide a bit on the rails. No internal frames, but they are waterproof and have waterproof liners too. I also have a gas mask pouch that has my trangia stove, gas etc in that could clip on the side or top of the rack.

Have it occur to you that they may have different sized feet, shoes and cleat placement?

It had, also crank length must count for something. My toe overlap isnt too bad until i stick the guard on, as you will see when i stick a pic up.

Bergen side packs attached to rear rack. Also picked up a lowepro camera case for cheap in a charidee shop that works well as an under saddle tool and bits bag. Just looking for something as a top-of-rack bag that can easily be lashed onto the rear without being too bulky. Might just use a hiking dry bag as they can be compressed and rolled however and are pretty durable.