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• #27
If you wanted to go real trick, possibly a piece of very thin stainless machined into the shape of the swan would look cool!
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• #28
DIY approach: thin aluminium sheet & caustic soda etch
You'd need to develop a suitable masking technique (nail polish ??) and fastening method (2mm rivet?? araldite??)
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• #29
I like it!
I can get my hands on a lazer cutter an all.or
Is this kind of falsification simply not cool on a frame of pedigree...?
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• #31
After speaking to Willis, there has been a small change or direction, end result the same, just a much much better quality.
Here is where she's at now..
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• #32
UPDATE
Just had a message from James1234 who is doing the frame restoration.
The frame has been stripped and prepped with a couple of rub patches on the stays filled and sanded.
Forks and rear triangle have been rechromed and the paint will be done in the next week or so.Should have this built up and ready to roll in time to cycle to Brussels in May, otherwise I'll be doing it SS!
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• #33
So,
I got this frame a while ago from Willis. The original plan was to just repaint the frame black with the lettering on the down-tube, but upon stripping the frame, I came across this:
I then filled it (properly, not just brazing it) and grinded and sanded until I had this:
Here she is now :)
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q748/nqbikes123/DSC_0053_zps96df874a.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q748/nqbikes123/DSC_0055_zps94d9f342.jpg
http://i1357.photobucket.com/albums/q748/nqbikes123/DSC_0062_zpsbbe6a543.jpg
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• #34
That looks lovely James.
Proper classy.Can't wait to see it in the flesh!
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• #35
Looks v nice!
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• #36
Ahhhhhhh crap.
I just had the Chris King headset fitted at LMNH (great job, nice chatting Nic), but there is a problem.
I have enough steerer length, but I don't have enough steerer thread.Can anyone suggest somewhere in London where I can get the thread on my forks extended by 5mm or 6/7 threads?
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• #37
Would be easier to switch to a lower stack headset.
Is it even possible to add steerer thread? Inverse shim?
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• #38
I think he means he needs to cut the threads further down on the steerer. Very nice by the way.
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• #39
Elvis, I don't think you've wrapped your head around it.
Oak? -
• #40
cheap/easy/temporary solution is a headset spacer.
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• #41
Nein! Theaded!
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• #42
I know. put the spacer on top of the headset cup, but under the locking nut and you're golden.
look at ed's new oak for illustrations.edit: you'd need a 1" spacer.
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• #43
That's just for a bit more stack. If the thread doesn't go down far enough, the top race of the top bearing won't sit down on the headset. You could put a spacer under the crown race, but POC.
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• #44
Just tried Ryan.
He hasn't got the tools.He recommended BLB who, I'm told, don't have the tools for cutting threads but do have the tools for chasing threads. So given the right amount of beer persuasion they will chases/cut a bit further.
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• #45
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• #46
oh, I see. bummer.
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• #47
Yes.
Bummer. -
• #48
I had mine cut and rethreaded at Bike Works on Shepherd's Bush road for not that much (£20 IIRC). If you're in east then I think they have a store in Bethnal Green that might do it too
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• #49
Jackpot!
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• #50
Got this done at vintage bike cave in highgate.
Did it while I waited and it was about £5
^ AFAIK That's correct.
If you want to know more about Dave Russell or get a date/workshop location/tubing confirmation or just generally chew the fat, there's a guy at Stows in Windsor who was good mates with him. Can't remember his name, but I got some info on Luckyskull's TT bike from him and he was pretty knowledgeable. The number is 01753 862734. Unfortunately when Dave died, whoever bought the business wasn't interested in the framebuilding and all the records/logbooks etc were binned so it's a bit tricky to get any definite info.