MGOOF : Modern groupset on old frame

call me heretic if you want but that is peak bicycle aesthetics right there
absolutely perfect

That DeWalt toolbag on the Univega is very clever!
Also much bike envy

Is that a bent fork? :o

Tastefully executed build

I have a Campagnolo Record Crank arm set, vintage silver ones with the 5th bolt in the back of the crank arm. I'm putting Stronglight Ct2 rings on (which for some reason are 135bcd apart from one hole which is slightly different making them not fit quite right. Anyone know why they would do that?) Obviously with the 5th hole being in the back of the crank arm I need a longer bolt and also a spacer to sit between the rings. Is there a standard way of doing this? How would it have been done originally on the Record crankset?

SPAM: https://www.lfgss.com/conversations/347335/#comment15272845

This is great, very clean.

Little test ride to try and guage the stem height before I go at it with the hacksaw. I think I'll drop it to 1x5mm spacer with nothing above the stem.

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[Glossy fork away from] perfect!

Whats the stem? Edit: saw you mentioned it 2 pages ago

Those are 11sp chainrings? If so, made for Ultra-/Powertorque cranks with a differential BCD. You can enlargen the 5th hole with a file until it fits. The FC-RE102 bolt is proprietary, The FC-RE105 spacer is 3.7mm thick. You'll also need a washer between crank and and outer chainring, 0.4mm (FC-RE006) was used with campy 10sp Rings, so you'd probably need something a bit thicker. Getting these as spares is rather spendy, you might or might not get lucky on ebay, I've seen them sold as sets.
I personally would just get a complete chainset in good nick...NOS/Mint 10sp Chorus/Record rings can still be found at OK prices if you steer clear of scalpers.

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Thanks for the wealth of information. Just rang Spacycles and they say the extra boot in this set https://www.spacycles.co.uk/products.php?plid=m2b0s173p482 does the job. If the spacer doesn't work I can fashion something

such a great build.

This is lovely. Did you change to the carbon folks? How do you find the ride difference?

Yep, I changed them. Still have the OG forks in case I ever want to go back.

Big change to the ride characteristics. Much improved. The steel fork wasn't really playing that nicely with the very stiff R-Sys wheels - it gave the bike a really dead feeling. The new forka nd wheels make it feel very modern, very direct.

That is something I've thought about for the Tommasini in order to improve ride characteristics. Partly why I went for the carbon aero bars was due to stiffness. I don't want stiff responsive wheels and bars with overly soft forks although the Tommasini air forks are supposed to be pretty top drawer.

I think it's more to do with the whole front end rather than just the forks. On my Supercorsa I have steel forks and 3x laced 32h hand-builts. This handles beautifully, if a little lazily, but all in harmony. The DeRosa and Mavic was just wrong.

You might find you have to do some experimenting to get it right. Soon add$ up.

Yeah that's my concern! Not knowing enough on how to set it up just right that it soon goes beyond my budget. Hey part of the journey. I'm building the wheels with kinlin xr31t runs, sapim x-ray spokes and record hubs so I'll leave it as it is and experiment if I feel things need to change

I'd ditch the CX Rays in that build if I were you. Record Hubs are 32h so plenty stiff on normal DB spokes. Save yourself the cash.

The set I've got are 28h. I can get rays at trade price, still not worth it you think?

I wouldn't but YMMV

Why is that; because they are unnecessary, too stiff or is there an inherent disadvantage?

Expensive and a pointless weight saving on a 2kg frame

Aren’t cx rays more about the sweet aero gains and looking awesome (not weight saving?)

They also have better revolution fatigue rating if that’s what it’s called..

expensive though, even at trade. Go for alpina DB! :)

Yeah fair enough