• Nope. Mdcc_tester has persuaded me to just get the 170mm Red Black I think as they are fifty quid cheaper than 165mm.

    Why?

    http://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=106217

  • If it any consideration, Scherrit also told me that the crank length generally don't matter, but does make a difference to those who's very short.

    I don't think you're that much shorter than I am.

  • Rich what size seat tube will your adapter fit? It's not 28.6mm is it?

    Nah, it's for 31.8mm seattubes. Sorry.

  • Nope. Mdcc_tester has persuaded me to just get the 170mm Red Black I think as they are fifty quid cheaper than 165mm.

    Why?

    I willing to believe that crank length is no big deal. As someone with a recommended crank length of 160.25mm. I bet I could anything between 155 and 165 in utmost comfort.
    http://www.machinehead-software.co.uk/bike/cranks/cyclist_crank_length_calculator.html

    LOLz

    A slight detail would be foot clearance. Both for panniers at the back (if you plan to use them), and the full guards at the front. Its only 5mm though.

  • Using this bike for audax is definitely cheating* :p

    *(still hurting from my steel foray of the "tour of the hills" audax)

  • Nah, it's for 31.8mm seattubes. Sorry.

    No worries. I need to decide on a 28.6 clamp. They are often disproportionately expensive, or look shitty, unfortunately.

    Just a question from here Fox, but was that a fitting with Scheritt or just a discussion?

    If it was a fitting do you not think it's better to follow the fitting advice as your position will change a little with a different crank length .. no fitting expert but I'd assume your saddle height would need to be lower by 5 mm too start with ..

    It was a fitting, and yes I think you're right. It's become something of a moot point as it turns out I can't buy the Fudge Red Black deal without buying a chain I don't want, so I'm just going to get 165s now I think, as there's no price difference elsewhere.

    Using this bike for audax is definitely cheating* :p

    *(still hurting from my steel foray of the "tour of the hills" audax)

    Definitely ;)

    There is a big part of me which knows it is much more about the rider than the bike, so part of me feels a bit guilty about this whole build. I suppose I'm going to have to up my game to justify it :/

    Not that guilty though!

  • So, I have been ordering some bits...

    A Red Black rear mech (was going with Force but special offer), a Red 2012 'yaw' front mech (7 quid more than a Black Red one) and TRP R960s in black.

    This bike is developing a bit of a black/red theme. I'm probably going to get red Hope QRs and a red Hope seat clamp and BB to continue the theme.

    I think I may have gone overboard on the black/red thing though, I ordered one of these yesterday:

    I would have ordered the plain black but they are hard to get hold of. I might have to ring up and cancel this though, I'm worried it will end up looking like a clown bike.

  • I think the red will look boss jut yeah maybe not the chain...

  • I can't buy the Fudge Red Black deal without buying a chain I don't want

    Are you sure? I bought my Red Black from there and my chain from CRC. I did it through the mix-n-match red/force/rival option.

  • I think I may have gone overboard on the black/red thing though, I ordered one of these yesterday:
    I would have ordered the plain black but they are hard to get hold of. I might have to ring up and cancel this though, I'm worried it will end up looking like a clown bike.

    I think the chain will look cool. Its not going to be that red for long anyway.

    I like a bit of colour on a bike. Anodised finishing kit looks cheap and horrible. But I love the look of anodised bolts, QRs, nipples etc.

    My fat bike will be mostly silver (frame, fork, seat post, and stem). I've gone mad on blue bits.

    frame bolts
    nipples
    hubs
    rim tape (shows through rim drillings)
    Seatpost clamp
    headset
    Bartape
    part of saddle

    I reckon it'll look cool. IMHO etc.

    I use this site for all my pimp bolt needs.
    http://www.jerseycycles.com/

  • Are you sure? I bought my Red Black from there and my chain from CRC. I did it through the mix-n-match red/force/rival option.

    From the mix 'n' match bit at the moment you can only select Apex or Rival chainsets for some reason. It's ok, I've ordered everything except the rear mech so far from bike-discount.de who are nice and cheap.

    I ordered a few things separately before realising I was paying more postage than required so gave them a ring: they have an English customer service staffed by nice German ladies somewhere south of Bonn. I'm quite impressed so far.

    I reckon I can get away with the chain. Just about...

    If I want black Nokon cables SF what do I need to buy exactly?

    Edit: A slimline gear cable set and a universal set for the brakes seems to do it?

  • If I want black Nokon cables SF what do I need to buy exactly?

    I have SwissComp not Nokon. The size of the inner teflon tube can differ for brakes and gears, AFAIK the outers are the same you just need enough. I did'nt feel the need to use cable stops.

    Easiest to buy a complete kit probably.

    If you are going to use PowerCordz. You may need a a roomier liner as they are a touch fatter.

    My SwissComp teflon liners fit into my internal cable routing system. I havent run it continously. But it does mean I can run a little extra. This allowed me to both remove, and add a link as I was dialing in my cable lengths.

  • Alligator I-link cabling is cheaper. The mini i-links are nice and light too.

  • It's a bugger getting spare liner though.

    Also, a good way of getting rid of the step on the I-link cable ends is to clamp the end in a drill chuck and then hold the lip against a file- takes it down neatly.

  • Alligator I-link cabling is cheaper. The mini i-links are nice and light too.

    Brought those for my Audax bike too, they're defintely cheap and come with lots of bits and bobs.

  • I presume lots of bits and bobs are a good thing?!

    Thanks chaps, will investigate the alternatives. Based on looks I think I prefer SwissComp to Nokon.

  • Oh it mean there's enough bit and bobs for all sort of cable routing, like cable stop, through frame, tight bend, rubber cover to stop rubbing on frame etc.

  • If you use the bright orange rubber boots you will be a braver man than I.

  • Brought those for my Audax bike too

    Ed in weight weenie shocker ! lol ..

    Ed's right you get a lot of bits .. 1800mm of I-Links if you buy a gear kit. With none going to waste as off cuts like conventional cable, I'll leave you to do the maths on your cable runs ..

    Not worrying about the last few grams I've made a std gear kit, not mini as mini is not strong enough for brakes, cable a complete smaller size bike (gears and brakes) by buying some extra liner and with some modifying of supplied cable ends at the brake calipier .. I buy from http://www.dulight.fr/

    Disclaimer .. This maybe the same with other systems, I only have experience of I-Links

  • I presume lots of bits and bobs are a good thing?!

    Thanks chaps, will investigate the alternatives. Based on looks I think I prefer SwissComp to Nokon.

    IMHO they are the best. PM me if you find a source. I dont expect to need to replace mine any time soon. But I like it so much I want to make sure I have enough bits in the parts bin.

  • If you use the bright orange rubber boots you will be a braver man than I.

    No need to, the cable won't be rubbing on the headtube.

    non-aero levers FTW.

    Ed in weight weenie shocker ! lol ..

    Not exactly.

    My aim for the Audax bike (853 tubing, steel mudguard, Dura Ace groupset w/ downtube shifter, non-aero brake levers, fillet brazed, Brooks, front handlebar rack etc.) should be 9.5kg if I got my calculation right.

    The iLink is just mainly for enhanced performance.

  • http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vn29DvMITu4

    I can't find those Swiss Comp alloy cables anywhere. They are on the Swiss Comp site but nobody seems to have them for sale in the real world.

    Whereas I can get iLink mini gears plus a brake set on eBay from the UK for £85 delivered which seems good. I don't think I'll be using the bright orange boots either - why didn't they just make them black?!

    According to my spreadsheet I'm at 6.182kg currently without pedals, gear and brake cables, bar tape, stem or headset, which is promising as I'm aiming for sub-7kg.

  • Performance - YouTube

    I can't find those Swiss Comp alloy cables anywhere. They are on the Swiss Comp site but nobody seems to have them for sale in the real world.

    Yep. I snagged some off a UK based EBay seller and havent seen them since. He sent a load stuff (extra liner, loads of links, loads of cable stops etc.), so I guess I'm OK. Plus I cant see why I'd need to replace anything but liner.

  • I've ordered the iLinks from eBay now, trying to get the final few bits together so I can get it built soon!

    I think I've decided on tyres now - Vredestein Fortezza Tricomp in 25mm.

    HED reckon the rims are 'optimised' for 23mm tyres but apparently in the real world 24 or 25m tyres are all good.

  • I only just learnt you have rack mount and would be doing some light touring on it, in which case the wider rims and the choice of tyres is perfect.

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Pearson Carbon Audax Pro: A comfy, modern & fast (ish) long-distance bike

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