Cannondale Aficionados / Owners

CAAD12s look well priced.

Love those Hutchinson tyres. They rolled and gripped so well on hard packed fire trails. Ah, memories...

Not so great in sand and mud though.

Ultegra 6800 cranks on a BB30 SuperSix frame. What bottom bracket?

A mechanic suggested a press fit shimano 24mm (I think this won't fit shell). A friend suggested praxis converter BB (which sounds good).

I bought this, haven't used it. You can have for a tenner?

or one of these - https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/bottom-brackets/black-kcnc-bb30-bottom-bracket-to-shimano-adaptor-road-68-mm/

That's probably better, don't forget to put it in the freezer before installing.

Or this?
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/rotor-bb-4224-bottom-bracket-steel/?lang=en&curr=GBP&dest=1&sku=5360740714&kpid=5360740714&utm_source=google&utm_term&utm_campaign=UK_PLA_Components&utm_medium=base&utm_content=mkwid%7CsHWFgNJoX_dc%7Cpcrid%7C67090789262%7Cpkw%7C%7Cpmt%7C%7Cprd%7C5360740714uk

I don't know, but note that the plain sleeve type adaptors are generally Loctited in. I don't know how easy they are to remove again, but my CAAD Track came with a note about it not being intended to be removable. Maybe it's glued in though.

The FSA one comes with a note that says its removable but not from carbon bb shells

The sleeve-type adaptors are adding another surface where creaks can happen. That KCNC one looks like a bargain at £30, especially with its O-rings, but the Praxis PR-68-3001R should be rock solid.

Cheers all. Going with the Praxis.

Ok. Problem #2. There is play in the headset of my S6 Evo after I have assembled it. All parts seem to be present and I followed this diagram: http://www.cannondalespares.com/img/bike_models/exploded/supersix-2010-2012.jpg

Any help?

Any help?

Take some photos of your setup and post them - the headset is pretty simple - couple of bearings and a compression ring, not much to go wrong other than you aren't getting enough preload due to some weirdness

I had a stem on there and there was still play.

check all aspects of the front end
make sure front wheel doesn't have any play / qr's / bearings , check brake is fully attached and tight, other things can make the headset feel loose even if it is perfectly set

spent ages myself trying to work out what was wrong with my headset only to find the front wheel has slight play in it

1mm microshims. Ask your lbs for some. Might need one or two to stop the conical spacer compressing onto the HT

What's the best technique for removing an NDS Hollowgram crank from the spindle without spending over £20 on Cannondale KT013 (which consists of two small easily lost chunks of metal)?

I know using something to sit against the end of the spindle is a bad idea because the crank threads are already shorter than most other cranks.

You Buy The Fucking KT013 Tool for £20.

You can bodge it. Why not? It's just a £100 crank arm. At best. Worst, it's a £200 SiSl2 crank arm.

Good spot. It looks very tight on the head tube in the photo.

@FixedCheese Chuck any old headset spacer on top of the compression ring to test the theory and rule everything else out.

Mine has two very thin washers above the split ring on the top, try that

50cm only but CAAD12 can be had for £900 with 'END10': https://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Cannondale/CAAD12-105-Road-Bike-2017/E4PL

END10 cannot be used on bikes or framesets

o rly? I got an email saying that it can be .. meh

They had a 54 this week and said no

What @howard said - use the right tool for the job (I'm sure theres a meme coming at me for that)

If nothing else, do it because it'll take you a fraction of the time than faffing with it