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• #16302
Here we are
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• #16303
You can remove them and just cover up with leccy tape
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• #16304
These were the exploded views I tried to upload yesterday. No blanking plates
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• #16305
Thanks - that's an option for sure - but I'm thinking of turning this into a bit of a renovation project (poss a red saeco homage?) so keen to find something a bit more permanent. Might see if I can find some rubber blanking grommets that might fit if there isn't a dedicated cannondale part available...
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• #16306
In case of a repaint, aluminium filler would seem apt to me
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• #16307
Sugru is the answer, a moldable glue that forms into any shape you want, dries and stays in place, is water proof etc and will last... can then be removed if required at a later date with care, and leaves no mark.
Various colours available, I used black when I etap'd my bike, looked like a rubber grommet 👍🏻
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• #16308
Thanks all - a few good options here! I will start with aluminium filler on the basis it sounds like it might be able to be sanded down flush to rest of frame. Might post on the projects thread when I start this build.
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• #16309
Yeah alu filler would be easily sandable to shape, just as soft as aluminium tubes.
In lieu of sugru you could also use formcard from london's own Peter Marigold
https://shop.storeprojects.org/store-store/formcard-by-peter-marigold -
• #16310
PNS looking s6 himod down on the continent
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/314817958612 -
• #16311
Has anyone heard of somebody removing the steerer stop on a supersix?
I'm building up a 2020 one that predates the fix they put in place with metal reinforcement inside the headtube for the fork pin to butt against.
I wondered about grinding off the pin so that if the bike oversteers because of a crash or the bars just falling to the side in the stand, it will only be the brake hose which takes the hit. If I've crashed, it's most likely the ride over anyway so I figure at least the frame might be saved even if I have to replace a damaged brake hose. -
• #16312
I haven’t heard of anyone doing it. Personally I’d give it a go but I’d also use a braided hose for extra durability, perhaps slip one of those jagwire rubber hose protectors over so it gives a little more protection right where it would hit the headtube inside
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• #16313
The forks can still smack into the headtube and cause some damage. I’d probably lean more into bonding some small bits of metal into the headtube rather than removing the stop.
The only solution really is don’t crash
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• #16314
I know few pro riders that have broken the pin then finished the race season without problems...
But this is not optimal because the brake hose becomes the stopper. And the bar can smash the tt
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• #16315
You can also get a metal reinforcement to fit by yourself so you still have the stop, but won't have to worry about damaging your frame.
I think it's offered by Luescher Teknik.
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• #16316
There's nothing else to touch the headtube. I'm fairly sure it will barspin with the stop pin removed
Bonding the metal in is of course the sensible route but...
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• #16317
Hose is better than smashed headtube.
Bars can hit the top tube on every other bike, it's fine -
• #16318
I'm fairly sure it will barspin
Then your work here is done.
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• #16319
Hey all, does anyone have any experience with the 2017-18 disc supersixes? I'm getting a monstrous BB creak (+some play I believe) and not sure how to fix it. It's even worse since I pressed in replacement bearings yesterday as the old ones were knackered.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/uLgxFvPKSMtHNiw36
Firstly does anyone have any idea what BB this is... I think it might be a wheels - it seems to be threaded so I'm guessing it isn't the original (FYI its been rubbed when I tried to use a FSA converter which did NOT go well - should be all black metal).
Unfortunately I can't remove it as I dont have a BB tool that large (48.5mm). I suppose it also could be loose after pressing yesterday
Options;
- buy a tool, remove and replace with same BB + loctite/similar given I know the bearings are OK (+eventually have to buy a new power meter)
- replace the BB with a new ?PF/BB30a (not sure which it is). Run the risk of it happening again (+eventually have to buy a new power meter)
- replace the BB and switch to Hollowtech with my power meter + old crankset
- pay someone to do one of the above just for piece of mind.
Any advice welcome!
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- buy a tool, remove and replace with same BB + loctite/similar given I know the bearings are OK (+eventually have to buy a new power meter)
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• #16320
I remember someone floating the idea of selling their 58cm SuperSix hi-mod?
I can’t find the post now but might be interested if that’s still the case
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• #16321
1 or 3 as 2 likely won’t work.
Also check your rear qr is toight!
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• #16322
^ was also going to say just give the rear qr a quick grease and re-tighten. You probably already know this but always worth checking.
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• #16324
God if it's that I'll be fuming. Cranks are off for the 4th time... it didn't feel that loose though thankfully.
Cheers for the advice, will give it a go
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• #16325
Related, any go to sources of BB30 bearings? 6806-2RS IIRC.
Put another ten zillion miles on mine and it's finally started to give up I think. Have already checked the QR :)
Thanks - the down tube stops have hex bolts in them I think - I'll check in the morning and post a pic if I've remembered right. The brake cable goes through the head tube on this one.