Commuto-x bike

This bike has taken an utter hammering, and I had been planning to strip it down. New cassette, chain and chainrings had all been procured.

Last weekend a stick decided to interfere with the rear mech and wheel. This caused a fair bit of damage - destroyed mech hanger, destroyed mech, and drive side spokes all grazed/gouged.

Rear wheel was going to be rebuilt by my LBS, but the spoke holes are cracking, so is going to be replaced with a macic tn719 rim.

In the meantime the bike will have to be rebuilt using a spare wheel from a 29er that is out of action. Alligator I-links arrived for the cabling of the bike today. Replacement mech hanger arrived 2 days ago - props to Hotlines for sorting this out, I have found them frustrating in the past but they went overboard to help in this instance.

The bike is in a pretty sorry state right now, so Sunday is going to be time for a make over.

Fuck, I now realise that the current cassette is the first one that was installed, I have had the Sram cassette sitting in the parts bin for nearly a year.

Pro Link Pro Gold lubricant has done a fantastic job at keeping chain wear down.

The bike has done approx 120-150 miles a week since it was first put together.

Pro Gold lubricant has done a fantastic job at keeping chain wear down.

Might have to try this. I can't work out what it's is (it's not oil, it's not teflon...)

I've been using Finishline Wet which gets very sticky, then thick and claggy.

The Finishline Dry is teflon but which appears to do very little – it's ok to stop a new, factory-lubed chain getting dry but is not much use in winter.

I have been using it for road and MTB bikes for a couple of years now, it is amazing stuff. There is also an injector for cables which appears to really help with keeping them free moving. When Scherrit was around for dinner the other week he said he standardly uses it when ever he is installing new cables.

I will give it a go.

You need to completely wash off the old lubricant using the pro gold. It feels extravagant, and then each time you relubricate you use the fluid to clean the chain, once it is running clean from the chain you just leave it to dry on, so ideally done after a ride.

I have started to buy the 32oz bottles and to refill the little bottles from that.

~~ Do you use any sort of degreaser to wash the chain down or just a brush and warm water? ~~

Oh I see, you clean using the lube.

as per your edit

I tend to use a rag or baby wipe to get the muck off my chain, and then just use the pro link pro gold to rinse of the remaining grime, while running the chain through a clean rag. once the fluid that is coming off the chain is clear the job is done

Why don't you use a chain cleaning kit to rid the murk completely inbetween the pin?

because the fluid does the job and then I don't have a wet chain that needs to be dried

Are you a 4, 16 or 32oz prolink man?

Yesterday the rear brake stopped working, and then it sort of came back to life. If honest the brakes have been getting stiffer and less responsive but the v twin system has not had any servicing except a bit of silicone on the pistons and new pads in over 2 1/2 years.

Today I tried to bleed the brakes, and the v twin is a nightmare to service, as the master cyclo de is under the stem, and the cabling stops it being moved clear of this. Bleeding of the front brake was ok, and it feels much stronger. The rear did not work, once bled the pistons started pissing dot fluid. I guess the fluid was so poor before that it could not deliver enough pressure to blow past the seals.

Looks like all the seals need replacing, and probably time to get the phenolly pistons replaced.

Dot fluid is horrible stuff, when the hydraulic brake shimano 11spd cable pull gears drop I price they will be installed. Shimano brakes are much easier to look after.

Time to put cable brakes on then, no reason why they won't be as powerful.

Just more hassle

Think I shall get the v twin stripped down and completely serviced, use it for another 30 months and then upgrade to the Shimano road hydraulics.

It's not more hassle, especially with the two new TRP brakes.

Can't believe I've completely missed this great thread.

Think I shall get the v twin stripped down and completely serviced

This I would be interested to know

Dot fluid absorbs water from the air so it's worth completely draining then refilling the system every year or so. But ya it's not nice stuff.

the problem being the v twin is an utter bastard to get to for the bleed, so i probably put it off far too late

another reason to go to shimano hydraulics when i can (afford it amongst other things)

Fucksticks caliper has a hairline crack, so needs replacing.

under warranty?

Doubt it.

Am going to ask hope nicely.

Was working at an event today and had the bike locked up. David Millar was there chatting to a friend of mine and pointed to the bike and said it was exactly his idea of a perfect town bike, and it's the kind of thing he wants when he retires.

Get that on a sticker.

csdj