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• #102
On my phone so I can't see properly but it looks like bi-laminate
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• #103
Indeed, it's the most expensive construction as strictly speaking, they're not lugs, just a sheet that's have to be shaped to look like lugs before brazing.
No advantage over fillet brazing or lugs, merely for cosmetic reason.
Would loved to have it (and Ryan did some recently), but I like to keep it nice and simple with fillet brazed.
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• #104
Ah, of course.
I've just never seen it that way round.
They've fillet brazed tube sections to the headtube and then made lugs there.
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• #105
Pretty much, here's an example of a lugs that has been carefully cut to be bi laminated to the frame, you can see how thin it is;
The aforementioned "lugs" is now brazed;
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• #106
Yes, but in the case of Alex Singer, it's the opposite, and I've always wondered if it was not some kind of special headtube design, that would have some kind of lug extension in order to take the top tube and the down tube like on an ordinary lugged frame. So it would not be bi-laminating strictly speaking, and it would have the advantage to replace the down tube or top tube just by unbrazing a lug, so you can repair without heating too much the junction that it to remain on the frame before and after the repair... Not sure I made myself clear. I asked about this typical Alex Singer detail, but I did not explain myself too well, the guy did not understand what I was asking, and said it was just a distingtive detail, like the curvy stays on Hetchins... I would like to ask again to the frame builder there...
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• #107
I think you made it clear, the lugs itself are oridinary lugs, but were filed down instead and brazed to give the bi-laminated look.
is that what you're saying?
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• #108
^^ so there is some doubt?
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• #109
I'm 5'10" and need a 53cm TT. And a stoopid long seatpost. I believe it is referered to as "T-rex syndrome".
My 30th next year, thinking about getting a custom bike made for that. No Idea what though.
You are not alone fellow T-rex brother.
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• #110
The tubing have arrived, the fork crown look the business too;
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• #111
did you get my pm?
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• #112
Yes! Sorry I will reply to them ASAP, cheapest I know is Steve Goff but will ask around.
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• #113
Well, that took forever.
I've been trying to source out an NOS non-aero brake levers that's identical to the one that came with the Lotus, basically a basic levers that have a mount for suicide levers, obviously not a collector's item, but I found them to be extremely comfortable as the hood is more like a hook rather than something to rest your hand on (like those massive SRAM levers), and they have a lovely feel to them.
The catch is that the NOS one I found is in the States, and I end up paying Parcel Farce twenty one fucking quid for a levers cost me a little more than that.
Still it's worth it.
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• #114
I also decided to get the Grand Bois Randonneur handlebar, I liked the Nitto one on the fixed wheel bicycle, so decided upon the Grand Bois (also made by Nitto) as the shape seemed nicer than Nitto's version.
The stem will be decided later, it will be a fillet brazed Grand Bois one with an integrated thread for a bell, I just need to give the bar/levers to Ryan first and let him decided what stem length would be idea for the bike.
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• #115
So this is going to have a threaded fork then.
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• #116
Yep.
I've been figuring this out for quite some time, while threadless tend to be stiffer and (possibly) lighter, I was also toying with the idea of a custom stem (in 1 1/8), however it does not allowed me to change the stem height quite easily.
It's also entirely possible to have a reasonably stiff bar/stem without restoring to threadless and oversized stem/bar, it's nice to have a little flex, but not enough to make it feel noodly, Velo Orange's steel stem is the stiffest one I've tried so far, sprinting out of the saddle is much easier without feeling the bar flex left and right.
Being able to change the height is of great advantage as the bike will be used for all sort of application, I can drop the stem a bit on club ride, or raise it for long audax ride, have been doing that already on my old bike.
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• #117
I'm surprised stem flex is an issue. It you're getting some flexing it might be worth going for heat treated Nitto bars?
IIRC some of the wider Noodle bars are HT.
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• #118
this bike takes longer to make than you will ride it
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• #119
I'm surprised stem flex is an issue. It you're getting some flexing it might be worth going for heat treated Nitto bars?
I was talking about those old common stem/bar that does have noticeable flexing, modern bar are much better naturally, but some people does feel a slight difference between modern quill/bar and ahead stem/oversize bar.
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• #120
this bike takes longer to make than you will ride it
So true.
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• #121
I was talking about those old common stem/bar that does have noticeable flexing, modern bar are much better naturally, but some people does feel a slight difference between modern quill/bar and ahead stem/oversize bar.
Yes. Is optimum stiffness of much importance for a geared randonneuring bike though? How often is it likely to be ridden aggressively in the drops and out of the saddle? How often are you going to push a big gear at low cadence etc, you get the idea.
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• #122
I get the idea, which is why I didn't opt for the threadless option as there was no need for that much stiffness.
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• #123
Threaded will look nice, and be a nod to the old french bikes.
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• #124
I am having threaded headset on this bike rather than threadless, just saying that the modern quill/bar are noticeably stiffer than the old variety (but not as stiff as a threadless/oversized combo).
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• #125
Did you ninja edit that ^^^ ? I'm going nuts.
google bi-laminate lugs