2012-04-20/22 - Flanders shenaniganza

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  • RIDE REPORT – DAY 3

    Day three was gorgeous for half with sun in the a.m. and later more tumultuous with storms in the afternoon. The Muur was a delight for all as our first point of call, either in its challenge or the view offered once conquered (or both). We relished the vista for some time and celebrated with headstands and berating local ramblers who had become over-zealous in ringing their repurposed bike bells to clear their own path. We agreed these particular hikers were particular wankers. Zut alor.

    I believe the sunshine had quieted the land after so much rain, as Flanders seemed more lush and rolling than either previous day. Birds louder, lungs louder with the cobbled hills but cars more lulling and fewer of them. Most houses were dark inside but I imagined them occupied with Belgian Dutch finding their own homely peace as we rolled by. Scores of houses and farms and sheep watched us as we rode past and we laughed and drank and enjoyed the farmland roads which were, as they were for the entire trip, smooth and seemingly purpose built for our bikes.

    Towards the end of our loop back towards Brakel we passed through the back streets of some depressed villages. We saw many empty buildings and homes (these I was confident were empty) with Te Koop - ‘for sale’ - signs tacked to their front windows or gardens. In some places the tarmac was even in poor shape and missing hunks of road and loose gravel made me think of home (if not miss it). It had also started to rain by this point.

    I remember we arrived back at the B&B in fine spirits and incredibly satisfied sense of accomplishment. As we packed the sun came back out. Some slept, some showered. The van ferried the Eurocrew to the station in two lots in the back of the van. I can safely speak for all when I say that it was terrifying riding in the back the van in total darkness with two evil red faces staring you down (the evil faces doubling as the tail lights for those on the outside of the van). It was like some sort of nefarious human trafficking border cross. On board the train back to England we drank prosecco and finally split once alighted at Kings X.

    --

    It can be hard to make sense of an ending. In that I mean the details of day three are easily enough reproduced, but their meaning remains elusive. Sometimes a chronological catalogue can be pulled together and from that its inherent logic arises from its composition. I’m not sure writing the above has done so. But as I wrote the above I was reminded of a famous American author (living in England) who went cycling in Belgium in the latter part of the last century. Maybe I’ll just use his words to finish this post instead:

    “Strange memories of those nervous nights in Belgium. Five days later? Six? It seems like a lifetime, or at least a long holiday - the kind of peak that never comes again. Flanders in the mid 19-- was a very special time and place to be a part of. Maybe it meant something. Maybe not, in the long run ... but no explanation, no mix of words or music or memories can touch that sense of knowing that you were there and alive in that corner of the world. Whatever it meant.

    History is hard to know, because of all the hired bullshit, but even without being sure of "history" it seems entirely reasonable to think that every now and then the energy of a whole generation of cyclist comes to a head in a long fine flash, for reasons that nobody really understands at the time - and which never explain, in retrospect, what actually happened. Flanders in 19--.

    My central memory of that time seems to hang on one or two or maybe three nights - or very early mornings - when I left Muur half-crazy and, instead of going home, we aimed the big Eurovan south at a 60km an hour wearing baggy lyrca and Assos chamois cream on our faces . . . booming through Brakel, the lights of Soignies, Liege, Rochefort not quite sure which turn-off to take when we got to the other end (always stalling at the toll-gate, too twisted to find neutral while we fumbled for change) . . . but being absolutely certain that no matter which way we went we would come to a place where people were just as high and wild as us: No doubt at all about that.

    In Belgium there was madness in any direction, at any hour. If not across the cobbles to the Ardennes, then up the E43 to Knokke-Heist or down to Oudenaarde. . . . We could strike sparks anywhere. There was a fantastic universal sense that whatever we were doing was right, that we were winning.

    And that, I think, was the handle - the sense of inevitable victory over the forces of Old and Bonked. Not in any mean or racing sense; we didn't need that. Our energy would simply prevail. There was no point in fighting - on our side or theirs. We had all the momentum; we were riding the crest of a high and beautiful wave.

    So now, less than two weeks later, you can go up on a steep hill in Hampstead and look East, and with the right kind of eyes you can almost see the high-water mark - that place where the wave finally broke and we, the Flanders crew, rolled back.”

  • you're so beautiful x

  • With a bit of luck, Sven's life was ruined forever. Always thinking that just around some narrow corner along all of his favorite lanes, cyclists with powerful hangovers and unmatching clothes are getting incredible kicks from things he'll never know.

    Good work, Dan... Appreciate the omission of that Americano ordeal.

  • Americano? I still feel sick about it. No thank you.

  • I just had to wipe a tiny tear from my eye!!

    No troll!!1!

  • Just tipped my lunch over in a fit of emotion after reading the day 3 report.

    The miso soup trickling out of my keyboard was somehow reminsicent of the mighty river Schelde we crossed as we made our way to the Koppenberg. But with beansprouts in it.

  • two tour of flanders now.. does that qualify me citizenship ??

  • No, just someone with excellent taste.

  • the day 3 write up just cleared away all the stresses of my day (which were HUGE) and has left me with fond memories of better times. :-)

    thanks dan!

  • the day 3 write up just cleared away all the stresses of my day (which were HUGE) and has left me with fond memories of better times. :-)

    thanks dan!

    +1. That is as haunting and compelling a piece of writing, as i have seen for some time.

    Chapeau, mon amis.

  • i had my rugby pals listening in awe last night in the pub
    as i waxed lyrical about our most excellent adventure..

    i am really missing the cobbles, today.. next site visit to antwerp
    i'm gonna sneak my bike unto the cityjet plane ;-)

  • As per Big Ring Riding's recent post illustrates, the Koppenberg is not, I repeat not, doable in the wet:

    [URL="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UA2RNDIbWrM/T3YcWANlhgI/AAAAAAAAHQw/VbyS4j36Y2M/s640/flanders_koppen.jpg"][/URL]FORGIVE ME FOR GOING BACK TO THE CLASSICS DURING THE GIRO.
    BUT KAPOW! KERBLAMM! KERRRRASH!
    http://www.bigringriding.com/

  • I could do with another trip like this again, sooner than next year.

  • yeah, we had carnage of the liquid kind though..

  • I could do with another trip like this again, sooner than next year.

    I'm up for another one! I'm cycling through France for most of August, but would be up for late summer/autumn excursions.

  • i'm out.. i have no spare holiday..
    prosecco gran fondo my next trip abroad 5-8 oct

  • I'm up for another one! I'm cycling through France for most of August, but would be up for late summer/autumn excursions.

    autumn would be good.

    Al - all you need in one day holiday really. You must have enough overtime to take a day in lieu.....

  • ^ This - another long weekend would be lovely. What about Bernie's N France ride?

  • ^ This - another long weekend would be lovely. What about Bernie's N France ride?

    Humm, yes we did discuss the idea of night ferry to Ouisterham, and a couple of nights at Ste. Mere Eglise, or maybe Breville/Homfleur. Let me get the thinking cap on, and come back with some ideas.

  • autumn would be good.

    Al - all you need in one day holiday really. You must have enough overtime to take a day in lieu.....

    seriously no. i have too many olympic commitments already, plus family holiday in barcelona and prosecco tour in italy.. it's not just the time off, also the cost..

  • thanks mate. very nice.

  • Shamelessly stolen from Friday Smiles thread: http://www.etsy.com/listing/82089530/the-bergs-of-flanders-signed-giclee

    I looked through the pictures from this trip again a couple of days ago. Very much recommend doing so yourselves if you fancy a smile. I seem to have lost that picture of Dan cracking open a can of Leffe after crunching to the top of the Koppenberg - must see if I can dig it out again as it's possibly one of the most defining images of the entire trip (along with those pictures of Bernie and Matt on the beach).

  • So for those who want to relive this trip for free the Beligian Cycling Team have camped out in Middle Temple, notably in Fountain Court in the Inns of Court. They have posters of cycling greats and tele-cycling, for example a bike in front of a telly that let's you ride around West Flanders or say up famous cobbled hills.

    So I went down there at lunch and rode the Koppenberg. So should you.

  • ffs, just seen this.. how long are they planning on staying Dan?

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2012-04-20/22 - Flanders shenaniganza

Posted by Avatar for almac68 @almac68

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