Hip Hop Skid Bikes / Hipster Sleds / HHSB

Me? No.

Me? No.

You don't appear on that page (for me, without having an ignore list).

You don't appear on that page

Try this direct link to my post.

Try this direct link to my post.

That's more than a 100 page difference. How many people do you have on ignore?! 😂

I know this to be a thing but have never thought about why.

So...

Why?

Why?

If the stem ends in empty space, it tends to close up to a smaller diameter than the steerer over that empty space. That makes the bore of the stem into a cone, which is an inclined plane driving the stem up the steerer, which makes the preload screw work harder than it should to maintain headset adjustment. If the preload screw precesses in it's thread, which is will given half a chance because the load on the stem tends to rock the cap back and forth, the stem will walk up the steerer and you end up with a loose headset. Reducing preload screw precession is also why I recommend tightening the preload screw to a higher tension after securing the stem clamp.

Also, and this is a particular concern with carbon steerers which don't handle compression as well as metal ones, having the steerer poke through the stem reduces the maximum hoop compression stress on the steerer.

How many people do you have on ignore?!

Only 3, but they are obviously the kind of people who post prolifically in this thread :)

well explained. I'm having 10mm above the stem and 20mm below spacing wise. I believe theres also a max spacer height for carbon steerers of round about 30mm below the stem from some carbon fork manufacturers.

(settled on 5mm above on the bike shops advice)

Don't do what this pilot has done and cut the steerer too short, it should go all the way through the stem with a spacer on top

Is this true for both carbon as well as aluminum steerer tubes? I heard (wrongly maybe) that it isn't necessary for the latter.

but i thot it was kewl cuz the radavist duz it

edit: awesome explanation though. nice and thorough @mdcc_tester

Only 3

Pray tell, please.

Also enjoyed reading your explanation.

My top cap has a lip. A 1 1/8 downward protrusion that locates it snugly into the stem, so it stops the stem from being pinched more by the top bolt than the bottom.

So if that's the only reason I could run without a top spacer for moar HHSB points?

Is this true for both carbon as well as aluminum steerer tubes?

The part where I talk about carbon is specific to carbon. Everything else applies equally to all steerers, even ones made of solid steel. The problem isn't deformation of the steerer, it's deformation of the unsupported part of the stem.

My top cap has a lip. A 1 1/8 downward protrusion that locates it snugly into the stem

Is it a heavy interference fit? No, it isn't, because it it was the cap wouldn't work in it's main role as part of the bearing preload adjustment. If it has only 0.01mm of radial clearance, that is enough to allow all of the aforementioned problems to manifest themselves.

^ would rep

Thank ya! I'll look into that.

oooooh.

To me that looks like a 700C fork in a plongeant Cougar. I thought hipsters loved constant downhill

coming back to this thread after a few years absence I have to say that I'm surprised that this still exists and still is rather or so relevant.

keep up the good work and don't let anyone tell you that you're not doing god's work.

you could be right @mdcc_tester front clearance does look toight, but forks look genuine

Also love rizzla clearances though. I think some of them may have figured out the constant downhill thing though.