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• #32502
such lovely hubs those macks, got them on my low
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• #32503
The bolt on ones?
Love that build.
So stoked on getting wound ups -
• #32504
yeah the rear is double bolt. just to be sure if I somehow fuck one side up there is still the other one.
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• #32506
TRACK bike.
Sick track bike though. -
• #32507
No tape no track....
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• #32508
Also semi light gear and flats/straps...
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• #32509
That has to be a street build.
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• #32510
A Jakarta street build, maybe.
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• #32511
Asking this here because I don't wanna trawl all the Wanted/For Sale threads to see if the information I seek is there... and because the only reason I'm getting this wheel is because it will look pretty... so... yeah. I've seen some of them in this thread so figured you guys might know about them to some degree. This question has been asked before but not answered really: here
Anyways, I'm picking one of these up tomorrow at 9am (not this exact one but it's a front 700c clincher). Is there anything I should look for other than the obvious "Don't buy it if it's cracked"? And, do I really need to be paranoid about it? Are the horror stories to be taken lightly? I'm not a light lad but I'm kinda thinking any of these that were gonna break, have broken by now. It's not too expensive so I'm happy to take a punt but all I really wanna know is if there's a tell-tale way of identifying if it's one of the infamous exploding wheels or one of the later ones that are apparently sound.
Theo? You have one right? Did I see it on your lo-pro? What's your take?
Apologies for slight OT post.
Here's a kitten on a bike.
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• #32512
I've always thought they were flats in the 100000x that bike has been posted, but looking again, I can't help but feel they're actually track pedals...?
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• #32513
maybe PM shinkuu kiss he's had a couple of spinergy's and think he knows how to tell between exploding and non exploding editions.
Also, I raiz u kitten on sled...
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• #32514
damn, thats nice.
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• #32515
Damn Lewis James, what are you here to sell?
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• #32516
maybe PM shinkuu kiss he's had a couple of spinergy's and think he knows how to tell between exploding and non exploding editions.
Also, I raiz u kitten on sled...
Yeah. Good plan. Ta.
The first thing I'm doing on the day I finish my current build is putting my cat on it and posting the picture here.
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• #32517
Exploding ones have a bridge between the spokes?I seem to remember that the gen ones had rivets where the spoks joined and others did not, will go have a look as it may be the other way around.
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• #32518
Got any More details? I need this
Unless you have alternative cog manufacturers (i.e. a market driven prices opposed to closed proprietary system) then I'd go with Level hubs. Tough, high flange and the three bolts merely hold the cog to the hub and do not have any torquing forces passing through them. Plus the Levels can be re-spaced to fit any dropout. I think Scott has recently been busy with bike stuff and has finally got back to designing a free wheel. I think he may have also done a lighter weight hub - though I'm unhappy at their decision to drop steel for Alu cogs.
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• #32519
6^That being said there are at least 2 different ways that spinergies have been known to fail.
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• #32520
Two known ways Spinergies can fail...
1 - Historically recognised design flaws.
2 - Indra puts one on his bike.Thanks.
Good tip... any idea where I might find a picture of this "bridge" I've heard talk of? -
• #32521
Unless you have alternative cog manufacturers (i.e. a market driven prices opposed to closed proprietary system) then I'd go with Level hubs. Tough, high flange and the three bolts merely hold the cog to the hub and do not have any torquing forces passing through them. Plus the Levels can be re-spaced to fit any dropout. I think Scott has recently been busy with bike stuff and has finally got back to designing a free wheel. I think he may have also done a lighter weight hub - though I'm unhappy at their decision to drop steel for Alu cogs.
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• #32522
Yeah. Good plan. Ta.
The first thing I'm doing on the day I finish my current build is putting my cat on it and posting the picture here.
do this (6th post):
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=2165924
great idea.
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• #32523
http://i1.ytimg.com/vi/SDSyrhuOdwI/maxresdefault.jpg?feature=og
http://www.bikehugger.com/images/blog/spinergy.jpg
http://www.milanofixed.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/02/spinergy.jpg
http://john-s-allen.com/galleries/broken/rims/IMG0013adjusted.jpg
http://john-s-allen.com/galleries/broken/rims/IMG0023.jpg
http://farm1.staticflickr.com/116/301536087_23dc4b7d37_z.jpg
http://pardo.net/bike/pic/fail-020/img/wheel.jpg
...
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• #32524
do this (6th post):
http://forum.slowtwitch.com/gforum.cgi?post=2165924
great idea.
Pffft... effort.
Maybe.
Good link though. Ta. -
• #32525
FIFTY THOUSAND PICTURES OF FAILED SPINERGY WHEELS
...
I knew that was coming!
It's those haunting images that have led me to ask here innit.I think I'm just gonna buy the damn thing anyway and somehow beef it up a la Apollo's link.
^^That surprises me too, Id always heard nothing but good things about their hubs.
My vote is Mack or American classic, it shouldn't be tricky to strip the branding if youre not a fan and the rear track hub is lighter than the low flange Macks.