Tester's T3

Coincidentally, a few weeks ago I was wondering about asking someone with CAD skillz to design me something almost identical...

My idea was to move the arse bottles nearer to the saddle (my Xlab leaves a massive gap), and to have the option of either mounting a single bottle (where you currently put the light) or to mount two bottles either side in a more conventional fashion.

Are you getting it made up by Fibrelyte?

I assume your bottle placement is inspired by NickB?

Are you getting it made up by Fibrelyte?

Side plates will be from Fibrelyte, various metal inserts from the machinist

I assume your bottle placement is inspired by NickB?

Not really, his tea tray was above the saddle, my placement is under the saddle. There's no reason why the plates couldn't be made to accommodate other positions, and I have a drawing in front of me showing how far back the bottles would have to go on my bike to be above the saddle and clear of my arse.

CAD skillz

Having trained as a draughtsman in the pen and ink days, I'm feeling more computer-impeded than computer-aided at the moment, but after going back to the drawing board a few times, I now have a good enough bottle cage to check fit and clearance

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You actually doing events long enough that need bottles @mdcc_tester :) or does it just test faster with a bottle mounted?

He does design consultancy now...

Design me a pile of carbon bits that I can stick all over my bike to look like Nik. I'd prefer that they make me faster but actually not that bothered. :)

You actually doing events long enough that need bottles @mdcc_tester :) or does it just test faster with a bottle mounted?

My phone+pitstop+spare tube go in a tool bottle, and I need one bottle for a 50 which won't go between my arms, so two cages behind the arse seems to be the best solution.

If you think this is rough, you should see the saddle model

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_7K_CIulQew

What's the rational for horizontal bottles? More aero, but increased risk of ejection and difficult to reach (especially fixed). Presumably the extra holes are to allow you to vary the bottle angle?

Also you don't have any prototypes you want to shift do you?

Presumably the extra holes are to allow you to vary the bottle angle?

Yes, there's a 30° option on there

No prototypes, but I made plenty of the threaded dowel pins and I'll probably make at least one spare set of the 'dog bones', so if you wanted to get Fibrelyte to make you some side plates to suit your position I could help.

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30° option

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that's some mad fusion 360 skills you have there! i wish i had time to learn it

i wish i had time to learn it

You do, I have about 20 hours of screen time on it plus whatever I've learned from NYCCNC on Youtube, and the only CAD-like thing I'd done before was mess about with Sketchup.

Seems likely to work with the Selle Italia Iron too, will be trying one out on the RollerFort soon

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I think I might have a solution. A rigid noodle would be the optimum, but it would be tricky to make one with precisely the right curvature to align the exit from the bars and the entry to the brake while maximising the radius of curvature, Since the lines defining the two ends are not coplanar, I'm not even sure what mathematical function would be needed, although it's interesting as a problem. For the 2014 season, it's getting a flexi-noodle plus as many bits of Nokon as are needed to make up the length.

Still using the flexi-noodle?

Flexinoodle plus a couple of Nokon links, but my Mk1 Ventus is a completely different cabling proposition to your Mk2

How do they differ?

Considering how short it is, the front brake cable is looking very expensive at the moment.

How do they differ?

The position of the brake cable port is different, but more importantly the flexinoodle is my entire brake cable housing. There's no housing inside the bars, just a built-in guide tube for the brake inner wire.

There's a thread at http://www.timetriallingforum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=98178 if you want to add your name to the long list of people who have had trouble setting up the Mk2. The Mk1 is a piece of piss, you just push the inner cable in behind the brake lever and it pops out of the bottom of the wing next to the stem.

Preparing to engage #tartmode

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@Scilly.Suffolk FWIW, I'm using 90mm screws with 60mm of spacers, 5mm bridge and 1.3mm adapter plates, and that gives just over 8mm thread engagement at the top. 9.5mm would crash the screws into the extensions.

Is that Ukrainian?

Is that Ukrainian?

Yes

Good to know that cycling and Slavonic philology can intersect

Noted, thanks.

PS Red tyres plz.