Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Now this is interesting, maybe a hint of Dura Ace 9300?

Here it is!
https://patents.justia.com/patent/11685470

Interesting (I thought): the system lets you select a cassette... 9 speed, 10-speed... or 11-speed or more.
(according to the images, I use pat2pdf to get the PDF with images).

And it seems there's also a wireless-but-with-mechanical-cable system, just like Archer.

i am so fed up of chain slap and subsequent chain drops on 12sp ultegra (r8100)... maybe every 1 in 10 potholes if i am in the 11t the chain slaps and works its way off the bottom of the crankset. crankset is now super scratched up. completely crap - never had this issue with r8070

i am now convinced the issue is with the actual cage tension itself. the b screw tension is correct, the chain length is correct, the limit screws are perfect (haven't ever dropped chain during shifting), the hub has very very little drag.....

see a video which demonstrates the problem - https://imgur.com/gyyTTCd

i opened up the cage and it seems the spring can't be tensioned upwards/adjusted unlike previous generations which is shit. has anyone had any luck with an oem cage? i dont want to buy a ceramic speed one because i am not a tool but would be happy to investigate other options

other strategies I could employ before binning it and going to sram:

• change to a 30t cassette (vs the 34t i have). running the 52/36 at the front so this would bring the chain length down a bit and therefore increase the cage tension... it isn't a deal breaker losing the granny 34t but i do actually use it on some local climbs (whitedown lane, barhatch)
  
• try with a different RD... maybe mine is just shit?
  
• take another link out of the chain to make it really really short. below image shows the chain with a hypothetical link removed (see fold in chain on cassette) and shifted into 34:52 (i.e. BIG:BIG ultimate cross-chain)
  
  

which strategies would you choose and in which order?

Can you check the clearance between the crank and the chain when in the 11t? I've seen a few bikes where the crank would touch the chain and just loop if off the chainring rather than it being anything to do with vibration or tension.

I'd go to someone good with high end bikes and speak about a warranty replacement. TBF I worked in many bikes with that groupset and never got anyone coming with this, I'm assuming is big-small when it happens.

wont be an issue with RD cage that far forward in big big

maybe worth trying one of those direct mount mech hangers?

He said that the problem happens when on the 11t cog. Photo is just for opinion on chain shortening.

Zero cost solutions: Spin, don't use the 11T, ride around potholes, don't coast if you are on the 11T, increase the b-screw tension.

thanks for the input - but that doesn't seem to be an issue at all. on smooth roads it really has no problem or catching etc.

thanks - do you think the RD cage looks a bit slack in the video? i am going to take it to a different bike shop (vs my usually very decent LBS) and have them take a look at it

increase the b-screw tension.

i upped it a bit today before going out on a ride. the shifting wasn't impacted and it did seem to reduce slapping a bit... not much though...

what would that achieve ? i am willing to try it though

I had to do this on my Mason when I installed 30T gravel crankset for Pendle 600k. The shifting was pretty shit but I finished the ride so don't really care. Quarq 34T back on now so I need to put the B-screw back where it was (once I get it off the turbo)

If he means Wolftooth DM, it replaces that stock Shimano Shadow Mount swing-arm piece and puts the RD further away from the cassette. I use one to run a 42T MTB cassette on my road bike.

yeah that was my thinking. but what would that achieve other than having to extend the chain even further lol

Dunno, wasn't my suggestion. :)

You might have a longer chain but it would be further from the chainstay so maybe slightly less annoying? I would just do the B-screw and where the fuck are you riding around here that you're in the 11T anyway? :P

looks like your chain is fucked. see the link folded over? maybe that is why it is dropping. but yea as per your video looks like cage tension is not right.

lol ffs read the post or are you trolling?... that fold is deliberate to show potential to remove another link. the chain itself is fine. <1000mi on it

Haha I LOLd.

Hey @swedeee I know what the problem might be! Your bike is in a workstand! Fucksake man, you'll not get very far like that. I reckon maybe the pedals might be hitting the stand and causing the chain whipping or maybe when you climb onto the workstand to ride the bike you're rocking it and causing the slap...

How many miles on that big ring? It doesn't look like it is going to retain a chain

1 Attachment

unsure tbh. but it doesn't slip with new chains so assume it is still good for a little while longer..... i highly doubt the wear on the teeth is causing this issue. the chain slap is fucking annoying and has 0 to do with the state of the scuffed up chainring

the chain slap is fucking annoying and has 0 to do with the state of the scuffed up chainring

Yeah, a new ring isn't going to affect the slap, but it might reduce the number of drops. A chainring has so much engagement that it will pretty much never jump until a lot of the teeth get well below the chord line, so that's not really any guide to how well it will perform in the orthogonal direction.

Tell that to my Shiv and its Fibrelyte rings.