Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Let me know if they have a magic fix. Mine was secondhand so it'll be on paperweight duty for now.

The same brands are happy to race to the bottom with their (eg 12 speed) MTB stuff

MTB customers seem a lot more willing to switch brands. If road bike customers were all flocking to f***ing SRAM, Shimano would be forced to do something. Until then, they can charge whatever people are willing to pay.

would assume a lot of that that development cost has been recouped by now though

The development costs being recouped just means you're now making a profit, which is what businesses do until they can't.

MTB customers seem a lot more willing to switch brands

SRAM have been more agile in adapting to changing MTB fashions. Every time Shimano is slow, SRAM gains ground, and they started in a much better position in MTB.

I wonder how many mechanical Duraace groupsets get sold these days. For the money Ultegra di2 is clearly the better choice

For the money Ultegra di2 is clearly the better choice

It's a false dichotomy. You choose between electric and proper and then see what make/quality you want.

Shimano can't not release mechanical Dura Ace until the peloton ages sufficiently - didn't Alan Philip ask to not be on electronic for the classics this year?

Alan Philip? It's mad, di2 is amazing. So much simpler. It really is a no brainer

Sagan for Roubaix too.

Something about cobbles/vibrations and di2 cables coming out?

Yeah. I've seen a rider hit a pothole in a race and lose all their gears. Pretty flipping rare though!

Sagan said di2 was too easy to shift accidentally.
Mechanical takes a more deliberate action but di2 can switch just by touching the lever.

I can see that.
When your hands are numb from cobbles, don’t want to accidentally shift down on your front derailleur, and then have a chain drop when you’re trying to shift back up on a critical section.
I think they still favour double chainsets, not because they use the smaller ring, just so that the chain can drop onto it rather than off the chainset entirely.

I’ve just set up the front shifting on Sram red AXS and the only way I can get it to shift cleanly is with the FD set really high. Setting it up with the alignment tool causes the chain to jam between the rings. You can get it to shift ok at one end of the block, but shift the rear to the other end and it will jam or scrape. With it set ridiculously high it’s shifting really nicely throughout. Anyone else come across this? Cheers.

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The alignment tool only works before you've moved the limit screws. Once you've moved them, you have to do it with the spacing method.

Ok, good to know, thanks. Seems odd that I’m in the top half of the height adjustment with a 48t ring.

I've set up a few forces that are pretty much the same thing. Never used any alignment tool, you just do it like a cable Yaw FD.

I am late to the party, but I am finally riding a Di2 groupset. XTR to be more specific. I bought it second hand and had it lying around for almost half a year, simply because I was scared to install an eletronic system to my bike. It ended up being dead simple ones I got the right length cable.

So far I must say I am really impressed. Shifting is pretty much instant, even under the most extreme conditions and under pressure.

Having done Paris Roubaix the only time I dropped my chain was on a smooth bit of road oddly. The Forrest of Arranburg is rougher than some rock gardens I've been though, the other cobbled sections aren't too bad though.

I've done 6.5 years on a second hand Ultegra 10 speed DI2 set and it's just been flawless.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIVUhz8oBIW/?igshid=dx2l766iezmg

My guess would be new wireless campag as Ridley and campagnolo seem to be kinda tight.
But on second look it looks like regular di2

Nah, shape of the fd and the chainring is definitely shimano.
Maybe they just "forgot" to attach a cable, but I think the cable exits on the back of the fd mount.

ok, i have assembled shifters (9170) front mech (6870) and rear mech (grx 815) over the last few months. As I understand it, I need

EW-JC130mm (will sit in the down tube)
EW-RS910 (bar end)
SN-BCR2
BT-DN110 (seatpost)

Can anyone confirm that a) those bits all work together and b) I'm not missing anything?

thanks!

You need internal and external junction boxes and 2 cables for shifters the rest sounds fine

No need for an external junction box - the 910 bar end shifter does that job. You will need an internal A junction to tie everything together, and probably a Y cable for the bars if you're using the bar end junction box. Or a soldering iron.