Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

I put some Vaseline in the mount, seems to be happier, plugged it into the Y cable and the power indicator goes green for a few seconds - I’ve also attached the first spliced cable to the B junction box and added the battery, green light - I’ve also plugged the battery into each of the remaining ports on the junction and it works in each one. When I add either of the other cables for front and rear mech, or both, no green light comes on from battery....
Just firing up the laptop... which is a Mac... 🤞

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Cool, so the majority of the system works which is great. Switch around cables from components to see what pops up and what doesn't. It might be a Firmware issue it might be a compatibility issue.
You know it's not a power issue at least.

VMware it on your mac. PC only. If you need the PCE1 tool, you can borrow mine if you're London based.

It’s the front mech cable 🎉🤦‍♂️

Tip top.

Well, at least you now know. I ended up cutting a Di2 cable in half and adding flying leads with bullet connectors on them - makes it easier to check modified cables for shorts/continuity.

Soo seems the battery and cradle setup has died overnight - ordered a new cradle off eBay (budget etc) anyone got any of these external batteries laying around I could buy?
Cheers,
Matt

Potentially, with short and long mounts though? PM me

Anyone mounted the newer internal battery in a really wide seatpost? Cervelo P series post in my case. The usual kits are for round posts so wondering if I need to use something more 'homemade'.

Like this....
https://www.tritownboise.com/cervelo-p-series-seatpost-internal-battery-mount.html
And page 32 in here
https://derby-cycle.com/fileadmin/Downloads/Antriebe/Allgemein/Cervelo/Cervelo_P5_Disc/WEB_I_SEND_Anleitung_1973K3420003_V1_Cervelo_P5_Disc_US-EN_01_2019_US-ENGLISCH.pdf

I thought I had got the hang of Google Search by now....

Hopefully Sigma can source it, they were super helpful in getting the beard and brake covers for my attempted P2 -> P5 mod.

Thanks man

I now have fully functional di2 semi internal routed with no frame mods - thanks to all for the help and suggestions! 👍🏻👍🏻

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Got a new cradle - do you have a battery?

I do, but I'd rather sell with the cradles as they are pretty redundant without them....I may sell the whole groupset potentially and then I'd have the issue of no battery.

Yeah fair enough - I’ll drop you a message

Commitment! Can't wait to see this finished.

Good work!

Outstanding work!
Once you’re done, make sure you shrink wrap it.

Last proper ride I noticed a few occasions where an upshift was missed, but a double upshift worked and I could shift down to the gear I actually wanted.

Should have checked the battery levels.

Rode to the shops this morning, then later set out to do a proper ride, only to find myself with a dead system. No LED when I pressed the button on junction A (EW90-B). Conceded that the gear I was stuck in was to low for a 60 miler and returned home.

Connected my BCR2 charger, no LEDs on that either.

Downloaded the E-Tube Project software and found that the system wasn't recognising the battery. Swapped the EW90-B for an SC-MT800 I've got for another project, and used a different cable, but still no battery detected.

I've re-connected it to the computer for a slow charge, but what are my cheaper options for a cylindrical Di2 battery nowadays? Don't have any wireless modules yet, so BTR2 would be ok.

BTR2s are pretty hard to find these days. Best I could find recently was the BT-DN110 at Decathlon for £95 a pop.

I’ve got a spare BTR2 battery somewhere if you need one?

Is there a list of bars with good di2 cable routing? Including bar end junction.

I currently have ritchey evo max, which I love, so as close to that style of drop bar is what I'm really looking for.

Anyone had any issues with ultegra hydros leaking at the shifter? Took mine to the LBS to bleed the brakes and afterwards it pissed half the oil out of the shifter. LBS tells me it’s a “common” problem and I may need a new shifter. My guess is they didn’t tighten the screw to seal it enough (given they’re made of cheese not a total
Surprise)

Given it was only since they touched it it was a problem (I usually bleed them myself but was lending it to someone) I’m a little suspicious.

I've not had that issue on my R785s or my Ultegra hydro shifters nor have I heard anyone else having that issue. Maybe it's a common problem because someone at your LBS keeps breaking shifters? :)

Sounds like bike shop made up the story.

I might have. I've never actually seen fluid everywhere but a couple of times I've had a shifter feel very empty