Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

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does anyone have SM-PCE1 that I can borrow please? @Dammit or @danstuff ?

If you get an R600 climbing switch and gut the internals you can solder flying leads onto the contacts, like this:

So if you connect the blue lead to the black lead, it shifts down, red to black it shifts up. I've then chopped a Di2 cable in half and soldered each half to each pair of leads, so there's an 'up' Di2 cable and a 'down' Di2 cable. Each cable goes into a Junction B box, and each Junction B box has two Di2 cables going into it, both of which have switches soldered onto them. On the base bars I'm using Cateye remote buttons (now discontinued, part number 1699200) and on the extensions I'm using some round rocker switches. The soldering is fiddly but there's nothing intrinsically difficult about it.

Obviously everything upstream of the hacked R600 shifter, while it uses Di2 cables and junction boxes to connect everything together, isn't E-tube. They're just dumb switches soldered onto Di2 cables.

Thanks for taking the time to share. This is just the info I needed for my plans. Only thing I couldn't see was 2 black leads (earth?) in the picture above.

What was the requirement for wiring using Di2 cables after the climbing shifter? Just for ease of splitting using the junction b?

I had thought I could wire two sensors for the up and two for the down directly to each side of the climbing switch in parallel. Essentially a DIY blip and clic for the base bar and extension running into the switch.

Last question, is the 3 or 5 port then redundant connecting into the Junction B in the frame?

There's only one black lead on that picture. The earth lead is common between the two sets of contacts, so I just soldered two wires onto that single wire.

Yep, the main reason for using Di2 cables was that I couldn't find really small twin-pole circular connectors, so just used junction Bs and Di2 cables instead, and because I wanted to be able to disconnect the switches from the R600 internals.

I don't use a 3 or 5 port Junction A box. I'm running an old-style external battery (the P5 has a special cubby hole for an external battery mounted interally) so I'm using an SM-EW67 Junction A box. It's smaller so it's more aero...

I'm waiting for a new 8050 rear mech to arrive, and thought I'd best update all the 6870 firmware before it arrived.

So of course, my Windows virtual machine decides not to work anymore after upgrading the OS on my laptop...

Anyone in SE got a computer hook-up I could use in the meantime?

Ffs, I'm down a rabbit hole of stupid Windows stuff now. Got a trial of Parallels, finally got it working, and now it won't recognise the Di2 USB

Does anyone own a Windows laptop at all? Just need to borrow it for 15mins to get the firmware updated. I'm loathed to spend another £120 on the bluetooth battery as well just to put a new rear mech on

Ffs, I'm down a rabbit hole of stupid Windows stuff now. Got a trial of Parallels, finally got it working, and now it won't recognise the Di2 USB

This happened to me, the only way to resolve it is to use SM-PCE1 and update one by one. I asked SBC cycles to do it.

It's an issue with Parallels and High Sierra OS not recognising USBs. I was trying to avoid taking it to a shop for something that I've done hundreds (maybe tens) of times before until Mac bulldozered it with updates

It would be cheaper to get a cheap of windows laptop than the Bluetooth battery. Crap isn’t it.

anyone got the GX di2 rear mech? I've got one fitted and it won't let me crosschain. literally won't let me shift in to the top 3 or bottom 3 gears, depending on front ring. Any way of turning this shite off?

you might have synchro shift on .. disable that

Ah that's not unlikely. thanks champ

I'm pretty sure the answer is no, or a variant of, but can I run a 6770 front mech and 6870 rear together with an external battery (don't know what firmware is currently) and 6770 shifters?
If no, does anyone want to sell me a 6870 front or swap for a 6770?

Cheers,
Matt

If you want to keep semi-syncro you can also tell it you have a standard chain set and a smallish cassette and it will allow you to cross chain. I think it only limits the range on compacts etc.

Battery doesn't matter but the front and rear mechs need to be both 10 or both 11 speed.

If anyone is looking for a di2 hydro set, give me a shout. Getting rid of as need to fix motorbike.

Edit: As highlighted to me, should have clarified. This is just the shifter and brake set.

..Anybody getting rid of everything but shifters and brakes?

rs or r8070?

Anyone have a EPS v2/v3 charging unit in fully working condition I could borrow / buy?

Dammnit! Not sure how I missed that as well. R8070

As per advise, I can split these if anyone wants. It's a brand new set up, but it's all separate.

How much for mechs, battery and wires? Don't need charger or shifters

Sram Etap 11 speed, seem to have an intermittent fault with rear mech, where in in the lowest gears won’t shift either way.
Sometimes seems to “store” the shifts but not always...? Warranty it?

I’d warranty it.

I’ve read about this issue on weight weenies forum -

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=153126

If memory serves, it seems it maybe to do with dirt build up (or some other restriction) that stops the servo completing the shift until the obstruction disappears.

Yeah mine did this, it slowly started happening more frequently until I got fed up and sent it back under warranty. They replaced it immediately without question, only hard part was getting Tweeks Cycles (who I bought it from) to reply to my emails.