Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

I think you still need the Junction Box B as this contains some of the brains.

the 2 port junction box

What is this 2 port junction box of which you speak? You'll need some form of Junction A box, whether it's an EW67, EW90 EW-RS910 or a handlebar gear display.

Sorry, don't know. You're outside the official capacity ranges for both the FD and RD already. It may well work, but I've no personal experience of that setup.

OK, so cleanest would be the EW-RS910 with drilled bars. How would the routing go from there? Is it from the EW to the R600 and then to a B-Box in the frame to the battery and rear derailleur?

I'm a total noob, so excuse my stupidity.

One cable from the R600 to the RS910, one cable from the RS910 to a Junction B box in the frame, then two more cables from the Junction B, one to the battery and one to the RD.

I think you still need the Junction Box B as this contains some of the brains.

Junction A contains some active components. Junction B is just a dumb cable joiner.

Isn't it Junction B which is the one which usually goes under the stem?

Junc A is out front

Junc B = bottom bracket

Are there any gravelbars that are Di2 Compatible?

Status report; it works, mostly.

52/34 up front, 11-30 on the back. With a bit of jiggling the b-screw, everything works fine except small-small where the chain slackens too much.

I reckon a bit more tinkering might get it running spot on.

I do realise that all this just highlights how unfit I am.

.

Got some R785 Di2+Hydro brifters coming soon.

Any practical differences between BR-R785 calipers and BR-Mxxx calipers that I need to care about?

Just found the inner and outer plates to turn the 6870 rear mech from ss to gs. Around £23 posted from sjscycles

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1h_wRmMZl_c

Moar

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Just seen these at bikein. Are they just the shifter blanking inserts?
https://www.bikeinn.com/bike/sram-connectors-blips/136634147/

Trying to install new fucking VCLS seatpost.
Di2 battery won't fit in the post so thought I'd pad battery and drop it in seat-tube.
This is fucking fail because the fucking bottle fucking cage rivets stop it going low enough to get the fucking seatpost back in the motherfucker. My 5-port is full. Any other brilliant ideas for getting this pile of dogshit to work?

I've thought about filing the rivets but that would take forever and suck arse. I could strip the padding off and it might fit further but then I might never get the fucking thing out again and it'll rattle.

I guess I could unplug one of the shifters, plug the battery into that fucker and dangle the fucking battery in a framebag or something until I get a new junction box.

On canyon frames battery goes in DT, there is a space for it and a neat little zip tie solution even .. not helpful I know.

How are they inserted? Is there a special hole or are they fitted through the BB?
Yeah doesn't really help but interesting. It's going back the way it was and I might get some spare cables and junct B online and then just bodge it and hang it in the framebag. If I had something to bore out the seat-tube/file down the rivnut it'd probably fit.

Through BB .. soz hippo

Don't think I have a file long enough to reach the rivnut, nor do I own any kind of reaming kit (filth!).

You could just drill the rivnut away from the outside, leaving an empty hole. If you don't use it for anything.