Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Oh, I agree it's a lot of money for a couple of pieces of rubber, but I can't seem to find anything else out there that performs the same function so I suppose he can charge the premium.
I don't get a lot of time for bike maintenance, so personally, I'd probably pay more for the convenience. Plus I'd probably fuck it up somehow.

The thing is, I have a set of plugs in the Shiv already. I just need to find the same things. Maybe they only come with one of the aerobars I have? I couldn't find them googling but I guess I could ask Spesh about them.

Did any come with your recall-replacement set?

The 'recall' just involved different mounting kit. I'm still using the original Shiv extensions on my bike and probably should sell the fixed base bar but I'm lazy and was thinking about putting it on the training bike.

Could also use their climbing switches if you don't mind the greater bulk.

The SW-R600 is the climbing switch. You could use it as it, albeit it would be rather bulky, but I already have one which I gutted and fitted flying leads onto the internals. I used it with microswitches buried under the bar tape, but now I'm using Zipp aero bars on the S2 (which don't have tape on the tops) it's not really usable on the S2 so it's going on the P5 instead. No great loss, as I never got into the habit of using the switches on the tops of the S2 anyway.

Daft question, first time reader:
has anyone on here
done this:
http://benmanson.com/review/di2/di2buttons.htm

Yes, that's what I did with my SW-R600 shifter. Details here.

That's exactly what Danstuff has just been talking about

Hah

Re. using road DI2 derailleurs with MTB cassettes for 1x setups

http://www.shop.18bikes.co.uk/m9b0s599p2460/LINDARETS-Roadlink-2015

my 6870 long cage mech easily goes up to 36t without any of that tho

@danstuff and @Dammit

Thanks. I'm investigating the possibility of custom buttons, 1 x 11, alu frame.

For teh hills.

Yes but if you want to just adapt your current set-up and not just throw money at problems, this is a useful bit of kit.

Disassembling the SW-R600 switch is easy, as is working out which of the contacts does what. Soldering the flying leads on is a bit trickier, due to their limited size, which is why I got someone else to do it.

I'm after the simplest configuration here. I'm guessing I "need" (as I could do this mechanically with tt shifter, wire, and rear mech vs electronically):
battery
box
leads
buttons x 2 glued on bar
rear shifter

yes. i also plan on getting someone skilled with hot electrical items to do the work for me.
Once i price this up i might end up going away.

Yeah, but no clutch.

benmanson.com/review/di2/di2butto­ns.htm

That's old 5-wire DuraAce 79xx Di2, not new 2-wire CAN-bus E-Tube Di2.

Yes, to do the same with E-Tube you need to use the SW-R600 and fit flying leads to it.

WHAAT DOOO IIIII NEEED TO DOOO THISSSS?

one of these:

microswitches
rear mech
battery
box

yes?
c'est combien?

Depends what you mean by 'box'. You'll need a Junction A box at the front of the bike, either a 3 or 5 port SM-EW90 or an old school SM-EW67, but the older EW67 won't work with an internal battery. Depending on how your cables are laid out, you'll probably also want a Junction B at some point around the BB to connect cables together. So, assuming non-bonkers cable runs you'll need:

SW-R600 climbers switch
microswitches
RD6870 rear mech
Battery - either external or internal to suit
Junction A box - SM-EW90A or B if internal battery, any if external
Junction B box - to link cables together at the BB

You'll also need a charger for the battery. Obvs.

As for the cost, I'll let you Google that for yourself. I've got Cyclocross framesets to gaze at.

I reckon you could use the XTR front display/junction box, and then a pair of sprint shifters - which are ace by the way - then standard rear mech and a narrow-wide ring, standard internal battery. Bosh, no fucking around with soldering.

Me Julie has put 10k on a short cage Ultegra mech running over an 11-32 block, I'd run that with a 40T front ring for cross, a 44T for road.

10-42 rear and 50T front work fine for the Rockies, I didn't try the 44 so I can't yet say if that's a better option though.

The sprint shifters plug into extra ports on the brifters, they don't work as standalone shifters. From what I've read they don't appear in the eTube program, so they're just peripherals for the brifters.

I'm trying to gaze at those too.