Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

The only thing that would stop me drilling it would be the BB Shell.

Depends if it's all carbon or if it has an aluminium BB shell bonded into the carbon frame. If it's the latter then I can't see any issues with drilling holes in the centre of the BB shell.

Just do what I do and crash it then claim the new frame on the insurance payout*.

*only slight downside is you might die

Pro Tharsis stem.

Cables go in via a gap in the bottom of the faceplate, Junction Box inside stem (have a 5 port in mine), then out behind the steeer topcap.

Mine og striaght from the internal bar Routing into the stem. I got excited while I was using my 800w drill for something else, and put a hole in the back of my pricey Enve bars.

Not saying that its not a safe thing to do (like that would stop me). But that fitting everthing is going to be a pain. When my battery shat itself, and I did a check of all the Connections. Fecking around With cables at the Junction B was infuriating. And I have a massive square hole in the base of my frame.

True, but internal cables are always a PITA IME, albeit to varying degrees. Internal = inaccessible, and there's no real getting away from that.

Holesaw.png

sdshammerdrill.jpg

I drilled a pair of brand new Bont vapour plus, and some Enve SES road bars in the same evening.

Then woke up in a bit of a sweat.

I think I can see a small crack...

Well, it's done 1500km since that photo was taken, so if there is one, it's obviously stayed small.

What length cranks are your rotors @TTM ?

172.5

Why?

If was 170 would make you offer to take it off your hands and open up the possibility of etap again for you. All this talk of drilling and having frames makes me :(

Plus I am a big sram fan boy and want everyone else to have sram aids with me

I know. I've been looking at SRAM P2Max's and working out how much it'd cost to sell Rotor, replace with SRAM plus eTap.

The answer is too much to justify really.

To be fair, even if you did want to go down that route, etap is out of stock EVERYWHERE.

They're probably busy making the replacement units for when the first recall gets announced.

Ha

No, they've recalled it already.

Must be for the second recall then. Third time lucky, just like with Zipp hubs.

It seems the FD sits too far outboard and will foul the cranks.

Incidentally, this is also a problem for the new Shimano front derailleur, instead of having a light action to go on the big ring, it create a sudden "snap" instead, because of how the frame are made.

Norco's frame for instance does this.

Which model FD? Will I have this same issue using the 6870 FD?

It's the cable pull version, electronic version is fine since they don't relied on cable.

You could di2 that easily.

Just widen the holes a little, won't do any damage.*

*I can't be held liable.

Just drill / dremel the heck out of it, that's what I did to my frame..