Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

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  • Love this bike and refuse to update.

    @Hovis
    It seems the FD sits too far outboard and will foul the cranks. I haven't tried it myself, but @andyp did and both our bikes run the same BB. Such a shame as this would have been the perfect solution.

    What I could really do with is a comprehensive list of all the little bits and pieces needed. Like, do I need a battery mount as well as a battery? Or does it come with? Junction box, number of wires, etc.

    Sorry for lots of questions.

  • Will your wheels take 11speed? Might make sourcing parts a tad easier

    Shifters
    External wiring kit, which should come with battery mount
    Battery
    Battery charger
    Handlebar junction box
    Internal junction box
    Front mech
    Rear mech

  • My same question started here: http://www.lfgss.com/comments/12849743/

    If you don't run internal battery like I am you will need external battery and mount. If you buy the wiring kit it includes the junction boxes. Read from that link, note part numbers - you won't be using the hydro levers though so get the normal levers.

  • Perfect. Thanks muchly.

  • Yep, wheels are 11sp ready. I'll also need a new cassette and chain.

    Ill cost it all up and work out the cheapest option. In the mean time, if anyone spots any killer deals feel free to shout.

    Thanks again.

  • My Sram AIDS is so severe I will never recover.

    @TTM
    obviously the solution is to sell me the rotor p2m for little to no money and get a sram one.

  • As attractive a proposition as that is, it still wouldn't help me. Chain set is not the issue, it's the BSA BB that doesn't space out the cranks enough to not foul the FD.

    I should probably try it myself to check before settling in di2, but it's an expensive experiment.

  • Very useful link, cheers.

  • The full Etap groupset comes with a sram gxp crankset that will work with sram bsa bb's. The cranks will have the same q factor and be centered on the frame no matter what bb you have.

    I think the issue is that the rotors are just chunky things, physically thicker than sram ones so they foul the fd. I know people have had issues with aftermarket cranks fouling the limit screws, easily solved by filing the screws a bit shorter. But yeah, slimmer profile cranks should sort the problem. Obviously not cheap when considering you have it paired with a Rotor only power meter

  • @TTM you can always upgrade the gear kit instead, in my opinion it's simpler to change these and keep your crankset: (that's if you want a internal battery)

    https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-ultegra-6870-di2-gear-kit-74063.html

  • Is this a ploy to make me sell you my PM?

    Interesting info and makes sense. But as you say, £££.

  • Unfortunately I need external.

  • Ha no. A second p2m is an extravagance I haven't quite yet convinced myself I need.

    Which variant of Rotor is it? Do you know the q? I'll measure the thickness of my sram cranks and we can compare (oh my!)

    I'm surprised they would be that different in thickness. The clearance must be marginal with the sram ones.

  • Actually thinking about it its not as simple as that. I think the sram cranks have an S shape coming from the BB to the pedals, the rotors look like they come out straight. That would explain it.

  • That does sound like it maybe the cause. Annoying.

  • More Di2 questions.

    I've been looking further into external wiring setups and, as hard as I try not to be a tart, they don't look great do they?

    I did happen upon a link to a US frame builder (http://calfeedesign.com/di2-retrofit-2) who retro fit older frames for internal set ups. Does anyone know of anywhere in the UK that offer this service?

  • Why can't you use the internal one?

  • they don't look great do they?

    No they dont. No matter what they do. That calfee thing is early adopter stuff.

    If you are on a budget you could sell Storck to fund an FM066 or something .. although if I were to buy electronic shifting today I'd definitely get etap. Shame about your cranks .. @jammy is doing a project with Rotor cranks and etap atm here too: http://www.lfgss.com/conversations/287518/#comment13008940

  • Non Di2 specific frame innit, would require drilling holes in a carbon frame :0

  • Are we sure about that? If so, do we care about that? Get the dremel out ya blouse.

  • I like this.

  • That is internal set up with external battery which is what I did here with help of some Sugru and zip ties:

    #GhettoDi2

  • Yeah, so why not just expand the cable guide bolt hole and do that?

    Or, don't drill any holes and just do the chainstay mount like your one? I think the Shiv has bolts there for that mounting option.

  • That frame had internal routing and an exit at BB junction and drive side chain stay for RD. With proper old school external frame this is the only solution: http://www.wiggle.co.uk/shimano-ultegra-6770-di2-cable-cover-sheath-for-sd50/

    Shiv is Di2 ready I think.

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Electronic & Hydraulic Shifting (Di2, Ui2, customisations)

Posted by Avatar for hippy @hippy

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