Wheel building for polo

Possible spec for new wheel. Going the TS route with a hub gear but will need to squeeze the 130mm into 120 dropouts:
sram i motion 3
Halo Aerowarrior 36
3x with sapin spokes
misc 37c tyre

Total weight is <2.5kg. Weighed my current wheel (charge plug stock with 22t free wheel) and that was 2.2kg"

Thoughts?
I ride my polo bike pretty much like a normal commuter but swap the front (covered) wheel. Hub gear will make a huge difference to versatility of the bike.

Why the Aerowarrier rim out of interest?

Why the Aerowarrier rim out of interest?

Strong, reasonably well priced, can take up to 40c.

Do you have any others I should consider?

Sputnik!

Sputnik!

690g!? Mavic A119 = 540g

Aerowarrior is out due to no machine braking surface.

Get the Sputnik Pro, weighs in at 531g...

Just bought a nexus inter 7 hub and all the gubbins, think I'm going to lace it to a DP18 (590g), but its non-eyeletted, does that matter much? I'll be commuting daily on the wheel + polo, so long-term durability and ease of truing is really important.

how much did you pay for the nexus?

Just had a closer look at the Sputnik I bought for my geared hub and it's got two big dings in the side wall... Fuuuuuuu!!!! :[

£70 posted for hub, shifter, cables, and fixings. Second hand, but never used/fitted. Just need to buy the sprocket. Sometimes they come up cheaper on eBay, just its a long wait inbetween, and usually the coaster brake version.

£70 posted for hub, shifter, cables, and fixings. Second hand, but never used/fitted. Just need to buy the sprocket. Sometimes they come up cheaper on eBay, just its a long wait inbetween, and usually the coaster brake version.

nice, good deal. where from?

Sweet deal... You'll get a sprocket for just a few quid at BC... I've got a 19t that I wont be using, but don't know if my SRAM is compatible with your Shitmano...

One of the classifieds on ctc forum. Its a bit more than I wanted to pay, but for the sake of my knees I'd rather have it sooner than later.

i think you got a bargain!

ah, in that case I feel better about it now :)

Nice one C! Good find.
Mine would have been £72 posted but I took a train journey to collect it so £60 . And it's a bit battered, so yeah sweet deal. Especially if you're commuting on it as well, and it's not used.
Get that laced for tomorrow! :)

Should have it ready for next week. I can lace it myself and wind the first lot of tension in asap, but I'm not sure about dishing and final truing so will take a few days to sort out.

That's just mean.
I read that it's better to round down and never more than 1.8mm.

Apparently I need 281.1mm (left) and 280.4mm (right) spokes for my hub, so I'm best to go for 280mm rather than 282mm spokes right?

Dunno if makes a difference in your corner of cycling, but my bit, which is tandems, I've found that those single butted Sapims are the best spokes available. Everything else breaks. And I've converted any hub to any number of spoke holes by bolting on an auxillary flange with the desired number of holes, after turning a close fitting inner location that clips over the existing flange then using four x M4 bolts. Good fun making the new flanges.

has anyone considered/ does any one have a tournament set of wheels, if they have a heavy alfine for getting to and from the court when at home?

Dunno if makes a difference in your corner of cycling, but my bit, which is tandems, I've found that those single butted Sapims are the best spokes available. Everything else breaks.

In normal use I've never seen a decent 2.0/1.8mm spoke break in the middle, it's always at the nipple or elbow, even on tandems. Obviously polo is different because of impacts, so plain guage is best.

I think if a dt/sapim spoke breaks at the elbow it's because of a poor build: low tension means play between the spoke head and hub flange hole. Millions of revolutions wears them away and they eventually break. A good wheel shouldn't have any movement there. If a spoke breaks at the nipple it's usually a poor spoke (never seen a dt/sapim spoke break at the nipple), probably caused by cut rather than rolled threads.

sapim strong are 2.3mm from ~1" along right around the elbow, they never break.

I would recommed alloy nipples too. Much rather sacrifice a nipple than having the eyelet ripped out.

sapim strong are 2.3mm from ~1" along right around the elbow, they never break.

I wouldn't, given their tendencies to corrode and to round off.

if they are corroding you aren't hitting you wheel enough with your mallet :-)