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• #252
Is the bet still on?
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• #253
'Cos I'm running Centaur.
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• #254
I'll write you a cheque.
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• #255
'Cos I'm running Centaur.
Ew, I did a little sick I my mouth...
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• #256
Cross country is exactly what I use mine for. Of course a rigid CX bike is different from a rigid MTB due to much smaller tyres and therefore lack of cushioning.
For me its all about wether or not I need to go round corners on hard lumpy stuff. The CX bike skips madly, the 29er's fatties corner far more predictably.
Charging down a gravel trail in the drop is serious fun though.
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• #257
What about a monstercross bike?
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• #258
For me its all about wether or not I need to go round corners on hard lumpy stuff. The CX bike skips madly, the 29er's fatties corner far more predictably.
Charging down a gravel trail in the drop is serious fun though.
Yes, corners can be a bit of a test. Can't get the bite/turn/lean on the narrow tyres and end up off the trail. Ended up in the run off area of a ditch only last week!
It was alright, no one noticed... -
• #259
Let some air out. Lean more.
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• #260
Forgot to say as well, snapped the chain on the Boardman powering up a steep hill... wasn't very impressed with that!
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• #261
Were you shifting at the time? If not then golly- that's a KMC 10 speed chain, meant to be pretty strong I thought?
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• #262
Godzilla legs innit.
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• #263
I wasn't shifting gear no, the chain jumped and then snapped... Lucky I had a chain tool with me as I was a long way from home, just removed the broken link.
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• #264
Let some air out. Lean more.
Yes leaning more on a bike that is already losing grip laterally is what I need to do. Off to try it, thanks. I may or may not be reporting back.
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• #265
Try leaning all your weight on the pedal on the inside of the turn also, that should help.
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• #266
Yeah and ride fixed.
...Oh :)
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• #267
Try cornering in the drops, gets you weight down lower and helps you lean more.
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• #268
a 32c tyre has a lot of limitations when cornering on an uneven surface covered with a light sprinkling of gravel. Doesn't matter how low you can get in drops or how much you lean...
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• #269
Cornering aside, I have ordered some Goodridge brake outer as it claims to be made in the same fashion as gear outer and to therefore fiercely resist compression, and will strip off the cross-tops (which are having a noticeable effect in terms of drag on the cable) then re-cable and re-adjust the brakes.
Does anyone have the Park (or other make, not fussy) disc un-bender that I could borrow please?
Flat discs will mean that I can bring the pads much closer to the discs than is the case at present, which will do wonders (I hope!)
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• #270
If no one has the proper tool I have a home made one (5mm alu plate with some slots milled out of it) you are welcome too. The slots are a little too wide but it still does the job ok.
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• #271
Or just saw some slots in a bit of hardwood timber.
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• #272
I use my teeth or my thighs of steel.
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• #273
I shall channel the spirit of Murtle, and use a hammer.
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• #274
mole grips and a rag would also work
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• #275
Or an adjustable spanner.
I'm using Tektro rather than TRP but they are an improvement in braking over any of the canti's I have used. Much more power, easier to setup and no front brake chatter.
Only downside as Andyp pointed out is they do need to be closer to the rim than canti's and get more easily blocked up by mud (still work better though - using Swiss stop pads)